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  • bigcraig

    Master
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    4   0   0
    Mar 18, 2008
    3,162
    38
    Indy
    You should be getting some hang time.

    You can remove the ejector from the ejector housing easily with a pair of pliers. Just make sure you remove the housing from the gun first. It is an easy job once you look at it.

    You can tweek them a bit, but don't go crazy. I would be more concerned with it being the proper length more so than side to side placement.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
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    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    I put a dummy round under the extractor and while it doesn't seem to have a lot of tension, it can easily hold a round in place under nothing more than extractor tension...

    next I looked at the ejector. Seems like it's hitting awfully closer to the center of the case head, which might explain whey they seem to eject so vertical. Can you look at your gun and see if this looks about right? All I did was take out the recoil spring so I could run it slow and see what's happening...

    -rvb

    ejector.jpg
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
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    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    Mine looks the same as yours.

    What number is on the ejector? Mine says 336.

    Also 336.
    Was just reading about a new extractor from glock on enos (New Gen 4 Ejector - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!), but now based on your feedback that doesn't sound like an issue....

    Between the lighter recoil spring giving the slide more speed, and adjusting my grip so I'm no longer grating my hand an rubbing on the slide, I was hoping not to see this problem this time out to the range...

    -rvb
     

    RangeJunkie

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    17   0   0
    Aug 15, 2011
    925
    18
    Geist
    I have a 336 as well on my gen4. Somewhat erratic brass extraction but it does work. About 3700 rounds without an issue yet. Seems really strange you (rvb) are the only one with the full extraction problem. Lemon? Or?
     

    David Rose

    Sharpshooter
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    10   0   0
    Sep 11, 2010
    606
    28
    Fort Wayne
    Mine says 336, it looks the same as yours from the bottom (like your pic), but when I rack a live round out it comes out at a 45 degree angle up, right, and back. The live round definitely doesn't dribble out. Let me know if you need some spare parts to try to isolate the problem.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    Mine says 336, it looks the same as yours from the bottom (like your pic), but when I rack a live round out it comes out at a 45 degree angle up, right, and back. The live round definitely doesn't dribble out. Let me know if you need some spare parts to try to isolate the problem.

    David,
    I'd definitely like to take you up on that offer. I'll send you a pm to coordinate.
    :yesway:

    thanks!
    -rvb
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
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    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    I should probably mention some of the good w/ this gun...

    Friday I got another ~400 through the gun.

    W/ the standard slide lock/release/whatever, I had no more problems w/ the slide locking back when it shouldn't. I think the standard release is big enough anyway, I had no problems hitting it such as when doing a slide-lock reload.

    The dryfire to adjust my grip is paying off and getting rutted in. I didn't bleed all over the slide or the extended mag release this time. Some slight rubbing on the mag release w/ the left palm, but I think once I stipple the gun so I can hold on to it and keep the LH from sliding forward that will go away.

    Accuracy is quite good on this gun, but I need bettter sights to do better. These stuipd adjustable sights are not even on top, they're raised where the white comes up, and sometimes I see extra light bars in the gaps around the adjustable piece. Hard to get a consistent picture. Best 10-shot group at 10 yds was measured at 5/8" wide by 1-1/8" high. I'm sure I can improve that vertical stringing. Once I'm confident in the gun's ability to run, I'll pony up the $ for better sights.

    Grip tape didn't work. I tried some of that true grip. I spent an hour following the directions to put it on, and it came off in 10 draws. I need to stipple the grip cause I had a hard time doing timing drills. by 10 rounds in I would have to adjust my grip (that it was ~30 degrees and snowing didn't help).

    I set a new personal best for a reload, this gun reloads considerably easier than the beretta.

    next time I'll remember to take targets :n00b: All I had to use was 25ft NRA slowfire targets. d'oh.

    -rvb
     
    Last edited:

    bigcraig

    Master
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    4   0   0
    Mar 18, 2008
    3,162
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    Indy
    Ryan, I have been doing a little bit more research on your FTE issues.

    It seems Glock has changed some small components in some way. Apparrently there is a new ejector to replace the 336, but I am also learning that there was a change with the extractor as well.

    I will continue to search for more info.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    Ryan, I have been doing a little bit more research on your FTE issues.

    It seems Glock has changed some small components in some way. Apparrently there is a new ejector to replace the 336, but I am also learning that there was a change with the extractor as well.

    I will continue to search for more info.

    You da man!

    That's what I'm gathering from digging around on the interwebs, too. But I can't find any details, eg certain serial #s w/ problems, or generations, etc. Tonight, I'm going to email glock w/ the gun details and see what they say.

    I really hope if new parts are needed they can just send them to me, but I've read they are stingy w/ certain parts only going to armors (as much as beretta's customer service sucked, they'd at least sell you all the gun parts... they might get the order wrong 3 times, but eventually you'd get it).

    Why Glock, with such an impecable reliabilty reputation in the 17/34, would go and muck w/ critical parts such as the ejector and extractor is beyond me. Surely any manufacturing savings can't outweight the risk to that reputation. Right now I wouldn't be bragging it up to new uspsa shooters. Hell, I'm not sure I'll shoot it in a match yet.

    -rvb
     

    Freeborn Man

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Jan 17, 2010
    172
    16
    Memphis, IN
    I really hope if new parts are needed they can just send them to me, but I've read they are stingy w/ certain parts only going to armors -rvb

    I bought a Gen4 G34 and have the same erratic ejection problem. I called Glock about mine and to get the new style ejector, you have to have an armorer call it in with your serial number. If I wasn't wearing my eye pro I would have had many pieces of hot brass in my eye. I haven't replaced it yet as I cannot find a Glock armorer. I've been to many gun shops to no avail and I gave up. Good luck! :rockwoot:
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    Let me know if you need some spare parts to try to isolate the problem.

    spent a couple hours with Dave today. He apparently limp wrists this gun as much as I do.

    Long story short, we swapped several parts around, making a bunch of measurements as we went, each time thinking surely we had figured it out... But no luck. In the end, we had swapped everything around, one at a time, and the gun finally worked when I had Dave's 17 slide (with my extractor and barrel) on my frame. With the slide being the only variable, it ejected much better.

    The only problem we can see on the slide is the right rail isn't straight. With a straight edge on the underside of the rail, we see about 8 thou runout. The left rail (and both rails on Dave's slide) are essentially true. So it's as if the slide is slightly warped. Is it enough to matter and be the root cause? Who knows. But this gun is going back to glock.

    Note that I had no malfunctions today. But watching where the brass landed it was pretty obvious when the gun was working right and when it wasn't. When it wasn't the brass was mostly under my feet; it barely kicked out at all.

    I just hope that glock doesn't say it's within acceptable limits and they can't reproduce any failures; or if they do something significant like replace the slide I hope the gun comes back as accurate as it is now.

    Thanks again, Dave, for taking the time to help me out (assuming you weren't screwing with me and making me think you were swapping parts, I know want that IN state Production trophy back! ;):laugh:).

    -rvb
     

    HICKMAN

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    22   0   0
    Jan 10, 2009
    16,762
    48
    Lawrence Co.
    Angled inwards. As was Dave's. Mine about 5 thou more so. His top end on my frame ran perfect. We put Another trigger group he had (with ejector) in my gun and it still ran poorly. We pretty well proved the ejector was not the problem.

    -rvb

    yeah, I hadn't read all above when I asked that.
     

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