Mounting 1-1/2" PVC Pipe to a concrete basement wall?

[MikeDVB]

I'm doing everything I'm supposed to do - applying the primer to the fitting, then to the pipe, then again to the fitting, then applying the glue, then twisting about 45 degrees while inserting the pipe into the fitting.

The twisting does make it a little hard for an amateur such as myself to end up with a perfectly aligned set of pipes when doing a wye and check valves and going to a couple of separate pumps but it's functional but it seems no matter how many times I do it *one* of my fittings is leaking which is frustrating.

 

[MikeDVB]

I may just install the main sump without doing the wye or anything complicated and then, at some point in the near future, add in the wye and the other pump. Since I'll be able to un-clamp the pipe from the wall cutting out a section and gluing in a new fitting shouldn't be *too* hard. At least this way I'll have a working reliable sump setup and, if the power fails, I'll just have to fire up the generator to run the sump [would need to fire it up to run other things in the house anyways].

The big thing I'm trying to avoid, due to how quickly the sump fills when it rains, is losing power during a storm and ending up with a flooded basement.

What would be really neat is if I could somehow hook up a battery back-up to my AC Sump that would power it if the power was off but that's quite a bit above my skill level. I'm not really happy with the backup pump I chose though - it just seems far too cheap - I don't feel like I could rely upon it during a heavy downpour with no power if I had to.

 

[sig-guy]

Look into unistrut and insulated pipe clamps.

VIBRA-CLAMPS - G&S Fastening Online Store

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...images/220/CBL_SS_PIPECLAMP_B2000_220x220.jpg

 

[MikeDVB]

Also it would simplify my life immensely if I just ran two separate runs up and out of the house but I don't really want to cut another hole and have a second pipe coming out...

Going to call a couple of places in the morning and see if I can get some quotes on a good back-up pump installed along with the plumbing... Anything I should make sure to ask for/about or watch out for?

 

[danimal]

I'm doing everything I'm supposed to do - applying the primer to the fitting, then to the pipe, then again to the fitting, then applying the glue, then twisting about 45 degrees while inserting the pipe into the fitting.

The twisting does make it a little hard for an amateur such as myself to end up with a perfectly aligned set of pipes when doing a wye and check valves and going to a couple of separate pumps but it's functional but it seems no matter how many times I do it *one* of my fittings is leaking which is frustrating.

Make sure you are giving the primer plenty of time to dry (evaporate) thoroughly. Also, I prefer to use the purple tinted primer on everything, even if it's not for DWV, so I know that I applied it the full 360*. How long are you holding the pieces together after you twist? You should be keeping very firm pressure on the parts for at least 30 seconds... I like to go a full minute myself just to be sure. I see these home improvement shows where people just glue, twist, and drop the piece and I just shake my head. Also, the "glue" is not really a glue, it is a solvent. It melts the two pieces together, literally. The heat generated (albeit very minuscule) does cause expansion, to which the pieces try to push away from eachother.

[Potentially unnecessary info related to this project, but good FYI]
Also, do not try to "glue" PVC to ABS, they are dissimilar plastics. Ideally, they should be joined with a fernco, but when you can't fit one, they do make a special transition solvent you can use. And you only use it for 1 transition, no ABS to PVC and back to ABS, one time only, you switch, you stick with it. The reasoning for a fernco is because PVC and ABS expand and contract at different rates, not unlike mixing copper and aluminum electrical wiring.

For my backup pump, I bought a cheap 12v DC bilge pump and deep-cycle battery from Menards. Put in a 1 1/2" wye, 3/4" threaded reducer, and made a removable inline 3/4" check valve (after the main check valve) and called it a day. 800 GPH is more than adequate for my needs and I keep the battery on the automatic charger I got from Sears. I keep a spare main pump in the shed for when the day comes I need it, and it gets checked every fall because I use it to help drain the pool for winter.

 

[MikeDVB]

Thanks for the information on assembling the PVC pieces together in detail. Lost of resources say do X or Y but don't say why. I am using Purple primer and that's how I knew I only did the fittings and not the pipes the first time around [whoops].

I did my check valve unions with primer on the fitting[union] and not on the pipe but the unions are about 3" deep and I am not getting any leaking at those joints nor can I get them apart [even a dry fit, it was a bear to get them apart]. Should I get new unions or will it likely be OK?

 

[Harleyrider_50]

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it jus' simple pipe,glue an' clamps,dude.............an' TAPcons......they BLUE.........