Is a little slop normal? Suppressor mounting.

[KRN123060]

OK. When direct mounting my suppressor to the threads on the barrel I have some slop. A little back and forth wobble. Once I get the can against the barrel, everything tightens right up. Is this OK? Just don't want the dreaded "strike". I am relatively new to cans. I just sort of though it would be "tight" even at the end of the threads. I don't know. (YHM R9 on a 5/8 x 24 300 BO AR barrel)

 

[NyleRN]

You're fine. Tighten down and shoot. You can take the bolt or BCG out and shine a flashlight down the barrel with the can attached(tightened). Put the muzzle end about an inch from a wall. You should see a perfect circle on the wall.

 

[KRN123060]

You're fine. Tighten down and shoot. You can take the bolt or BCG out and shine a flashlight down the barrel with the can attached(tightened). Put the muzzle end about an inch from a wall. You should see a perfect circle on the wall.

Great. Thanks for the info! Much appreciated.

 

[patience0830]

Check it occasionally. If it works loose you might get an issue.

 

[STFU]

You can always get a 36" version of these:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I have one for each caliber for which I have a silencer.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that cover how to ensure the can is lined up properly.
The rods help.

 

[Aszerigan]

OK. When direct mounting my suppressor to the threads on the barrel I have some slop. A little back and forth wobble. Once I get the can against the barrel, everything tightens right up. Is this OK? Just don't want the dreaded "strike". I am relatively new to cans. I just sort of though it would be "tight" even at the end of the threads. I don't know. (YHM R9 on a 5/8 x 24 300 BO AR barrel)

As long as the lock up is tight when it's installed, you're good to go. YHM uses a ratcheting T-51/T-90 style flash hider so they don't work loose. Same design as on the old AAC suppressors.

Also, that's a 36cal suppressor, and manufacturers overbore the baffles to accommodate for slight bullet wag and very, very minor threading corrections. You're 100% good to go.

On another note, how do you like the suppressor?

 

[ROLEXrifleman]

When direct mounting my suppressor to the threads on the barrel I have some slop. Once I get the can against the barrel, everything tightens right up. I just sort of though it would be "tight" even at the end of the threads.

And here's the nerdy tech answer based on how fasteners work. In this case the barrel is the bolt and the direct thread adapter is the nut.

Threaded fasteners work like a stretched spring. They have a helix, or spiral ramp, on the inside (nut) or outside of a cylindrical shaft (bolt). Due to working tolerances between the two there will be variation. When torque is applied to the fastener, the bolt elongates and the tension produced clamps the items together.


So in short, the clamping doesn't occur till torque is applied. When enough torques is applied peak clamping occurs. Torque specs should be in the owners manuals to the products you buy.
We wont get into thread lockers or adhesives or dry torques vs wet torque, that's a different thread!
hope this helps

 

[KRN123060]

As long as the lock up is tight when it's installed, you're good to go. YHM uses a ratcheting T-51/T-90 style flash hider so they don't work loose. Same design as on the old AAC suppressors.

Also, that's a 36cal suppressor, and manufacturers overbore the baffles to accommodate for slight bullet wag and very, very minor threading corrections. You're 100% good to go.

On another note, how do you like the suppressor?

I am a little embarrassed to admit I haven't gotten it out yet. Seems like a gorilla put on my stock flash hider so I ordered an action rod to mount it up. Got the flash hider off and the can on so I should be good to go. Going to go pick up some subs today. Thanks again for all your assistance.

 

[KRN123060]

As long as the lock up is tight when it's installed, you're good to go. YHM uses a ratcheting T-51/T-90 style flash hider so they don't work loose. Same design as on the old AAC suppressors.

Also, that's a 36cal suppressor, and manufacturers overbore the baffles to accommodate for slight bullet wag and very, very minor threading corrections. You're 100% good to go.

On another note, how do you like the suppressor?

I don't have a ratcheting mount at the moment. If the can is staying on the rifle all the time do I need anything other than the suppressor itself? Thanks.

 

[NyleRN]

I don't have a ratcheting mount at the moment. If the can is staying on the rifle all the time do I need anything other than the suppressor itself? Thanks.

No, but it will work loose with temperature changes and vibrations. You'll need to check it every now and again. And you can get burned if you try and check it before it cools. Sometimes they'll work a little loose during a firing schedule. Pistol cans are bad about that. That's why I resort to using pistol cans on PCCs with a 3 lug. If it were me, I'd buy the the threaded hub for the suppressor to use the YHM Kurtz mount so you don't have to worry about it backing off. But that's me

I have an R9 too. Nice little can for the money. It's like a sore peter, hard to beat. I bought it solely to use on my MP5 clone. So I bought the YHM 3 lug hub adapter and stuck it on. Don't need to worry about threads

 

[KRN123060]

She may be a poverty build, but she's my poverty build. LOL.

 

[Aszerigan]

I don't have a ratcheting mount at the moment. If the can is staying on the rifle all the time do I need anything other than the suppressor itself? Thanks.

Ah, I was thinking of the other YHM stuff, that's a direct thread. Wrap a little teflon tape on the thread to prevent any backing off. Replace after a long string of hot firing.

 

[NyleRN]

She may be a poverty build, but she's my poverty build. LOL.

I have that same brace. It's the best brace I've come across

 

[2tonic]

If there's a shoulder on the barrel, behind the threads, why not just use a crush washer to secure the can?

 

[ROLEXrifleman]

If there's a shoulder on the barrel, behind the threads, why not just use a crush washer to secure the can?

Crush washers can lead to concentricity (misalignment) issues causing a baffle strike. As crush washers are crushed they do not retain uniform pressure or surface against the suppressor itself or the muzzle device the suppressor mounts on. Generally, crush washers are used on muzzle devices that have oversized holes to prevent bullet strikes as they exit

 

[2tonic]

Crush washers can lead to concentricity (misalignment) issues causing a baffle strike. As crush washers are crushed they do not retain uniform pressure or surface against the suppressor itself or the muzzle device the suppressor mounts on. Generally, crush washers are used on muzzle devices that have oversized holes to prevent bullet strikes as they exit

True, but that's what alignment rods are for. Short of drilling the cans' shoulder for a set screw, and dimpling the threads to index it, a crush or wave washer is the only thing that will keep the can secure through several fire/cool cycles.

 

[ROLEXrifleman]

True, but that's what alignment rods are for.

I own a square but I wouldn't use bowed wood to build anything. But that's just me.

 

[Aszerigan]

Suppressors generally aren't as solid as a steel birdcage or other muzzle device. I wouldn't want to put them under that kind of torque to use a crush washer.

 

[Pin]

Griffin Armament Suppressor Alignment Check Rod 45 Cal Diameter

With the appropriate Griffin Armament Suppressor Alignment Check Rod, an end user or gunsmith can verify alignment of the chosen suppressor and mount...

www.midwayusa.com

Alignment rods

 

[profjeremy]

No, but it will work loose with temperature changes and vibrations. You'll need to check it every now and again. And you can get burned if you try and check it before it cools. Sometimes they'll work a little loose during a firing schedule. Pistol cans are bad about that. That's why I resort to using pistol cans on PCCs with a 3 lug. If it were me, I'd buy the the threaded hub for the suppressor to use the YHM Kurtz mount so you don't have to worry about it backing off. But that's me

I have an R9 too. Nice little can for the money. It's like a sore peter, hard to beat. I bought it solely to use on my MP5 clone. So I bought the YHM 3 lug hub adapter and stuck it on. Don't need to worry about threads
View attachment 377019

I put a 3 lug on everything I can as well. That and the Q cans I have do a good job of staying tight with the Cherry Bomb. I’m not a big fan of shooting handguns with a suppressor, so that keeps me away from direct thread except for rimfire. My .22 can seems to stay put though.