I got primers!

[Coach]

I guess this rules them out. I use Lee dies... both websites say essentially the same thing.

RELOADING TIPS
Make sure to have a good bell on the case so not to shave off the coating during the seating process.
Do not seat and crimp the bullets in the same die. Use a separate taper crimp die.
We highly recommend Dillon reloading equipment.
Do not use a roll crimp or Lee Factory Taper Crimp Dies.
The roll crimp will cut through the coating. You must use a taper crimp die.
The Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die will undersize the bullets causing accuracy and fouling problems.
Most of the time a heavier crimp will work better.

Sounds like a Dillion is in order here.
This could also explain BE Mike's post warning of fouling problems and why I have no such experience. Dillion reloaders are the way to go.

 

[jtmarine1911]

Make sure you go in with your eyes wide open before you decide to shoot moly bullets. Do some research and see if it is for you. Once you use moly coated bullets in your barrel, you will never get it all out. It usually is not recommended that you go back and forth and shoot moly and then naked bullets.

I agree, I don't recommend switching back and forth between moly and non-moly with out a good,complete cleaning between changing bullets. I do still use moly bullet on occasion in a few rifles if I set in for a long shooting session, but I find that the negatives outway the benefits of moly and am on my way to dropping it's use all together.

Moly is a pain in the rear but it is not impossible to get completely out of your barrel. It takes a lot of work and TIME, but I have switched back and forth many times with out any change in accuracy.

If you do intend on using moly and non-moly bullets I suggest a good supply of plastic bristle brushes, patches, a tight jag, Kroil, Hoppes #9, and Sweet's plus several consectutive hours or the ability to let the Kroil or Hoppe's remain in the bore over night.

In hind sight, I would much rather clean lead and copper fouling out on a more frequent basis than shoot a little longer then clean moly out.

 

[Coach]

I agree, I don't recommend switching back and forth between moly and non-moly with out a good,complete cleaning between changing bullets. I do still use moly bullet on occasion in a few rifles if I set in for a long shooting session, but I find that the negatives outway the benefits of moly and am on my way to dropping it's use all together.

Moly is a pain in the rear but it is not impossible to get completely out of your barrel. It takes a lot of work and TIME, but I have switched back and forth many times with out any change in accuracy.

If you do intend on using moly and non-moly bullets I suggest a good supply of plastic bristle brushes, patches, a tight jag, Kroil, Hoppes #9, and Sweet's plus several consectutive hours or the ability to let the Kroil or Hoppe's remain in the bore over night.

In hind sight, I would much rather clean lead and copper fouling out on a more frequent basis than shoot a little longer then clean moly out.

OP was talking pistols.

 

[jtmarine1911]

OP was talking pistols.

Pistols, rifles, Moly is still Moly!

 

[Coach]

Pistols, rifles, Moly is still Moly!

Perhaps there is another explanation to the trouble you seem to be having with it. Because I have not had such trouble at all, and have used them with great results.

 

[jtmarine1911]

Perhaps there is another explanation to the trouble you seem to be having with it. Because I have not had such trouble at all, and have used them with great results.

Never said I was having any trouble with it just that it was not worth the extra effort to me. With moly you will (generally) be capable of shooting more rounds before you notice any accuracy decrease compared to non-moly.

However with moly when it comes to handloading because of it's main benefit of reducing friction you will lose velocity. And to compensate for this lose in velocity you have to up your powder charge, that is why they advise not using load data for moly coated bullets for non-moly bullets. That generally increases time spent to "re-develop" a load in a rifle. Another downside to moly is it's melting temp is IIRC roughly 150-250degF lower than typical chamber temps, so not only do you have the fouling left from the bearing surfaces but the moly that is vaporized and baked into all the small cracks and imperfections in the bore. Even after you clean the bore good it still seeps out over time and if not cleaned several times over an extended period after the initial cleaning it can cause the bore to appear as if it has not been cleaned to begin with. This will cause degradation in accuracy because as the bullet passes these spots it will not maintain an even bearing load of the contact surfaces, kind of the reverse effect of having tight spots from copper fouling and groups will open up.

Like I said, it has it's purposes and can benefit in many ways, but for me it is not worth the time spent to clean it completely out of a rifle barrel just go back to jacketed bullets. Pistols on the other hand are different, 4,5,6" barrels are a lot easier/quicker to clean than 22,24, and 26" barrels. Especially when you clean it completely between 5 shot groups during load development and for just for example, I am loading for my newly aquired 22-250BVSS and I have a bullet selection of roughly 16 different bullets to work through and find it's pet loads, now thats a lot of cleaning, then add moly to the mix, and thats a lot more cleaning.


I just stated in my original post that I don't recommend going back and forth, and added to my reasoning why. And again, I recommend that you go one way or the other to maintain top accuracy with out a lot of bore care work.