I finally got a bow!

[ChristianPatriot]

And I promptly went out and burned myself....



Oh well. I'm a noob. It's an old used Hoyt Reflex Xpress, but it was a good deal. I love it. I don't think I'll be ready for this year, but maybe next year I'll try to get some meat for the freezer.

 

[dak109]

Ouch!
hopefully it won't take long to figure out how not to do that.

 

[Hookeye]

FWIW I only use an armguard when wearing long sleeves.

Stance and grip will help alleviate the "burn".
Assuming proper draw length.

Some folks have wider arms, different elbows, and just have to wear an armguard.
But most times it's a form/grip issue.

I liked the old Neet armguard for hunting (long sleeves). They've changed some models and cheapened others up.
So I wear a King brand. It works but am not happy with it.

Yup, I should look into something better.

 

[Bfish]

Yep, grip issues usually. I never get into my arm until I get tired and should probably have already stopped shooting. I hope you enjoy the bow though!

 

[natdscott]

Some folks have wider arms, different elbows, and just have to wear an armguard.
But most times it's a form/grip issue.

And some even have to wear one with SOME bows, but not others. I never wore an arm guard (per se) with a compound excepting a compression sleeve for hunting coats, but with the particular recurve I have, an arm guard is a must.

-Nate

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Shot it some more last night. Still bit me a couple times. I'll figure it out. This happened though! Hope it's not a fluke.

 

[Tynimiller]

Proper form and it won't happen, welcome to the awesome side of hunting. You kill a deer with one and you'll understand why all us Bowhunters love it so much compared to boomsticks.

 

[midget]

The best thing you can do is get lined up with a coach/instructor and have them get you setup with the proper form ASAP. You do not want to start your bow shooting life with a set of bad habits. They become very difficult to break the more you shoot.

 

[midget]

This is a good start to getting the proper grip: http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/grip/index.htm
Also, did you ever get measured for proper draw length? If you did not, I highly recommend it. If it is too long, it can lead to your wrist turning outward, which then leads to more string bites...

 

[Hookeye]

And some even have to wear one with SOME bows, but not others. I never wore an arm guard (per se) with a compound excepting a compression sleeve for hunting coats, but with the particular recurve I have, an arm guard is a must.

-Nate

I shoot a low grip on compound. thumb pad down, fingers curled to side. Wrist sling. Release or fingers, draw length differs slightly, but not stance or grip. I shoot medium or high grips on recurves, no sling, just touch two fingers to front of riser to limit jump. Same stance.
No armguard needed, unless keeping a long sleeve out of string path.

Now I did have one bow hit my arm, in string rebound. The grip was screwed up. Slight change by Dremel and no more rebound slap.
I also deepened the sight window, lifted the throat and radiused the shelf, thinned grip too (but 1st I just changed rear face and problem went away). Did that to another fine Samick product, much improved feel (it didn't hit arm in stock form).

Lots of vintage bows have huge grips. Folks often slide in a little deep on them and get bit. Poundage and lack of draw stop changes some people's form too. That big fat grip may be comfy with one's hand all on it........but that doesn't mean it should be shot that way!

Heeling a bow, to fight fatigue or poundage will get a red mark too.

 

[Hookeye]

For those with classic/collectible recurves who have grip issues (possibly arm slap).........rather than break out the Dremel and go for better fit, it might be doable..............to build up an area.

My Tradtech Pinnacle 2 was no collector bow, but the rear face of the grip had a slight angle down at the thumb side. So when the bow string rebounded the bow slightly twisted in, causing minor string bite. More annoying than painful. Solution was to bevel grip's face to slightly high thumb side, bow then rotating other way. This was a very slight mod, and I don't heel a bow........but it did make a difference.

So.......for those who don't want to void a warranty (I don't care about that, the bows I've modified are still going strong)..........tape of some sort might build a spot up and allow for better fit..

Am wondering if the fuzzy side of Velcro would be an option.

 

[Hookeye]

I love bowhunting, but also love gun hunting.
They're just different.
Bow gets you pre rut.............gun hunters listen up........................pre rut sucks. It's not worth buying a bow and wasting time out there

As far as bowhunting goes...........I like trad best. Ideally one of these days I'll make my own bow and smoke deer with it. Not a self bow, proly machined riser with laminated limbs.

 

[yote hunter]

Draw length could be to long and if not roll your elbow up and out don't lock your arm should be a little bend to it.... practice practice practice.....

 

[ChristianPatriot]

I do a little bit better each time I shoot. I'm grouping around 3"-4" @ 15yds and it's all vertical dispersion. Horizontal is dead on. It's probly time to get a peep sight. I appreciate the links posted. I'm starting to be more comfortable with the fundamentals.

 

[midget]

Vehicle stringing can be a few different things. Mismatched arrows, inconsistent knock location, and possible even a timing issue.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Arrows and field points are all the same. Nocking point is consistent. I'm not knowledgable enough to know what timing is. If I had to guess, I'd self-evaluate that it's a support hand issue. Consistency in grip and elbow placement and consistency in how I let the bow leap forward.

 

[Hookeye]

What releases the string? (glove, tab, mechanical release)

What model of bow?

Is using a mechanical release is it a rope type or mechanical jaw? If jaw, is it attaching to the string or a string loop?
If on the string, and the bow having an axle to axle length of 35" or more........it should have little rubber button between release and arrow nock.

Called "Eliminator buttons". If not, get some. There is a clamp on style that does not require the string removed to install. They work.
Prefer the slide on, with spares left on string (slide up when needed). They last a long while (thousands of shots).

If the bow is under 35" axle to axle, go with a string loop (over 35" can run string loop too, but not needed).
String loops do change your anchor point (compared to direct string attach).