Post #5 in this thread. He did both of those 1911's and they both turned out very well. He is reasonably priced, easy to deal with and a nice fella on top of that.
Hey Guys! Sorry I missed this thread. Thanks a ton for the props. I've been away a bit. My daughter picked up a sweet tibia/fibia fracture
Stooopid skateboards! She's a tough cookie, but a kid in a wheelchair is WORK! Haha
I'll have to find a pic of the airbrushed cast!
Back to thread topic:
I don't like ceracoat. Two reasons: 1 - it will chip, yes it is tough as nails, but it will chip. 2 - it is hell on my airbrushes and generally a PITA to shoot. That said I will shoot it, I just don't like it.
I prefer Duracoat because of it ease to shoot and flexibility. I use Iwata HP (C and +) airbrushes. So unlike the guys that use HVLP or minis I don't use as much product. When shot well, it is durable. Yes it will wear, but I think it depends on the application and how it will be used. That said I have no problem reshooting (most) anything that wears. Take an AR for example, it SHOULD wear a little, but mine is as good as when I first shot it. Handguns however will vary based on carry. EDCs obviously will wear regardless of the coating, OEM, Dura, Cera... it doesn't matter. If heavily used it will wear. Hard holsters like Serpa, Fobus, safariland, etc are harder on coated handguns than soft IWB holsters. The best bet is to discuss the use, then choose the best coating.
Hydro dip is beautiful indeed, but useless against real wear IMO.
I have been considering going to a class to get certified in hydrodipping. Does anyone have any experience with it? Would love to know about the durability. I know about a clear to protect the film. But how does that hold up on a hot barrel.