how many rounds to load using new data

[mainjet]

When your starting a new load, what is the number of rounds that you would load up to shoot over the chrono for data before loading up a larger batch?

I loaded up 10 rounds to test but I am wondering if that is really enough to test out or should I go a bit more.

I am first going to see how the speed and pressure looks then try to get some accuracy feedback for those loads.

So what says you. How many would you load for testing?

 

[shibumiseeker]

Pistol, 5-10. Rifle 5 usually.

 

[ghitch75]

6 to 12....depending in the weapon....

 

[Fishersjohn48]

I tend to load 12 for revolvers and a full magazine (15) of 9mm and a couple magazines (14) of .45

 

[SSGSAD]

It isn't nearly as important for a revolver, as most loads, will get the bullet out of the barrel. But, for semi auto, you must load heavy enough for action to operate .... if I am "testing" or looking for accuarcy, them just 5-10, and make a trip to the range, and then repeat...

 

[mainjet]

Okay, so it looks like I m in the neighborhood then.

I am shooting these in my XD40 service. I think I may load up a couple more so I have a full mag to test. Then I can also make sure everything functions well though the fully loaded mag.

 

[Dave Doehrman]

When your starting a new load, what is the number of rounds that you would load up to shoot over the chrono for data before loading up a larger batch?

I usually load up 10 for rifle rounds. I fire 5 across the chronograph and see how those group at 100 yards. Then I fire the last 5 at either 500 or 1,000 yards. A good 100 yard group doesn't necessarily mean you will have good groups at longer ranges. Conversely, I have had really good groups at longer ranges with loads that don't do as well at 100 yards.

10 rounds is a good starting point, but then if you're really serious, it will take quite a few rounds and lots of time to really fine tune a load. Same loads but different primers, OAL and jump to the lands, different brands of cases etc.

 

[Leo]

I guess I do it kind of backward, but I started when there were no consumer level chronos. I load 5 each of each powder charge. Maybe I load 4 different powder weights. I hold hard for the best shot I take the lightest make and shoot one shot. After checking the brass and spent primer for high pressure signs. Then I shoot the rest of the sample. I aim exactly the same way each shot, I do not care where the bullets hit, only the size of the group. I shoot a new target with each sample. After measuring group size, that is my new favorite load. Then I take that load over the chrono and mark in my notebook, that this rifle likes this bullet at X feet per second. When I buy another keg of powder, I load and chrono, sometimes I have to adjust a little bit to get back to that original accuracy velocity.

If I have a load that stacks bullet upon bullet in the same hole at 2675 fps, I really do not care that the "proper load" is supposed to be 2950 fps. If the most accurate load does not make the terminal energy I need, I just go to a heavier bullet or a bigger caliber firearm.

 

[mainjet]

10 rounds is a good starting point, but then if you're really serious, it will take quite a few rounds and lots of time to really fine tune a load. Same loads but different primers, OAL and jump to the lands, different brands of cases etc.

I am not serious enough to get into all that quite yet. I am just starting my reloading so these are my first rounds. I bought some Berry's in 9mm and 40 S&W for which I am developing starting load data.

I bought a chrono for testing these new rounds. I read that Berry's like to be pushed at slower to moderate speeds and higher speeds make the plating separate.

So my goal starting out right now is this - Load up a small amount (10-12 as determined by this thread) and fire them over the chrono to get some speed feedback to be sure I am in the correct speed range. I also want to be sure that they function properly in my gun. And lastly, for now, I want to see if I can get a decent grouping.

Question for you guys - I believe that the chrono should be 5 -10 feet out from the muzzle but how far out should I be placing the target to get a decent idea of how these rounds do grouping wise? Normally I shoot handgun at the 25 yrd. range but I see when people are showing their groupings for their loads, many times they are at distances much less than 25 yards.

Bottom line - I am trying to figure the best setup to gauge my loads and get teh proper feedback. Maybe I am over thinking it as I am only plinking right now. When these Berry's are gone I will probably move to another bullet all together and then the fun starts all over again.

 

[skey01]

I usually load up 10 for rifle rounds. I fire 5 across the chronograph and see how those group at 100 yards. Then I fire the last 5 at either 500 or 1,000 yards. A good 100 yard group doesn't necessarily mean you will have good groups at longer ranges. Conversely, I have had really good groups at longer ranges with loads that don't do as well at 100 yards.

10 rounds is a good starting point, but then if you're really serious, it will take quite a few rounds and lots of time to really fine tune a load. Same loads but different primers, OAL and jump to the lands, different brands of cases etc.

DITO

 

[Stimp]

Usually depends on the gun.. Hand/long gun and to what ranges I am sighting in at.. Usually a min of 5 for each range usually gives you a good ball park for your load development.

 

[Broom_jm]

I am not serious enough to get into all that quite yet. I am just starting my reloading so these are my first rounds. I bought some Berry's in 9mm and 40 S&W for which I am developing starting load data.

I bought a chrono for testing these new rounds. I read that Berry's like to be pushed at slower to moderate speeds and higher speeds make the plating separate. You are wise to keep the speeds down, so you don't lead up the barrel or action.

So my goal starting out right now is this - Load up a small amount (10-12 as determined by this thread) and fire them over the chrono to get some speed feedback to be sure I am in the correct speed range. I also want to be sure that they function properly in my gun. And lastly, for now, I want to see if I can get a decent grouping. You've got this backward: Load for function first, then worry about speed. If you're following reloading book data for lead bullets, as you should with plated bullets, the speed will be fine. Once your load is functioning well, the next important thing would really be accuracy, but I don't shoot a pistol well enough to TELL if they're accurate!

Question for you guys - I believe that the chrono should be 5 -10 feet out from the muzzle but how far out should I be placing the target to get a decent idea of how these rounds do grouping wise? Normally I shoot handgun at the 25 yrd. range but I see when people are showing their groupings for their loads, many times they are at distances much less than 25 yards. The chronograph should come with instructions but the consensus is about 12 feet, at least for rifles. If you get weird readings, back it off to somewhere between 10 and 15 feet. Be precise in where you put it each time, if you want readings that can be used for comparative analysis.

Bottom line - I am trying to figure the best setup to gauge my loads and get teh proper feedback. Maybe I am over thinking it as I am only plinking right now. When these Berry's are gone I will probably move to another bullet all together and then the fun starts all over again.

You might be over-thinking it just a bit, but that's better than UNDER-thinking it! Since you're just plinking, work up loads that function and if the accuracy is halfways decent, call it good. When you change over to a JHP bullet that you might use while carrying, then take a longer look at accuracy and velocity.

 

[kludge]

One.

If it's rifle ammo and I'm working up a load for accuracy, I load ONE round at about 15-20 intervals from start to max. And I take the chronograph. Actually I load three at the start load to foul the barrel and make sure my group is somewhere near the desired POI.

Then I do an OCW test with those 15-20 rounds on multiple targets. I take my time, to keep the barrel at a steady temperature, and make notes about each round. If I get to a point where I see pressure signs, or I start to get much past book velocity, I stop and dismantle the remaining loads, there's some "judgement" that occurs here, BTW.

Then I analyze my velocities and hits on the target.

Did I mention I also bring my press to the range? After all this I load up five of what seems to be the best load and then fire a group and adjust my scope for that load.

For handgun plinking ammo, I just load whatever the AutoDisk throws near the start loads, and if it functions, I keep doing it.

 

[mainjet]

Thanks for the answers guys. I am listening

Question on bullet weights when reading data from a manual - If the bullet is a jacketed bullet of say 115gr., can I use that data and ignore the bullet nose style (JHP, FMJ, TMJ)? I have some bullets at home that are both 115gr 9mm. some are FMJ RN and some are FMJ HP. Can I just look at the data for the 115gr jacketed bullet (I know OAL will vary)?

I guess I am thinking of bullets being somewhat in three catagories (handgun) Jacketed, plated and cast. Using cast data for plated bullets..

 

[kludge]

Depends.

Not all jackets are created equal. Lead weighs more than copper, so a bullet with a thick jacket, or solid copper, will be longer, and thus less space for powder and higher pressure. Usually this doesn't amount to much at all when you're talkingabout jacketed pistol bullets. Also, bearing surface (friction) will come into play with different rifle bullets profiles more so than with pistol bullets.

If you start with the start load, then work up until you get good function you'll usually be OK. That said, most start loads function just fine... some people push their luck with light bullets and light loads though, and then the pistol stops cycling.

Also, hollow points will be longer than round nose/flat point for the same bullet weight, so be careful there too... If it's a safe load for a hollow point, generally speaking it will be safe with a RN of FN bullet of the same weight. Use caution when you go the other way.

And FYI, Speer Gold Dots (and they may be others) are really plated bullets