How can I remove the "red drop" from my A2 buttstock screw.

[louielouie]

Anyone who has had the "opportunity" to mess with the upper screw on an A2 fixed butt-stock will identify with this posting.

The upper screw has a "red drop" of nylon or some kind of thread-locker on it. The biggest problem is that they put it so close to the end of the screw that it makes starting the screw difficult (to say the least). I cross-threaded my first screw and had to use a tap and die (1/4x28 TPI) to clean it up.

I am ready to attach the buffer tube and of course the " ubiquitous red drop" is on the new screw.

I have tried melting/burning it off and using Acetone.

I still have some left on the screw. Evan a little amount makes it difficult to screw it in without feeling it is cross threaded. Any ideas on how to remove the rest of the red without destroying the threads?

louielouie

 

[Indianajeff]

Wire wheel on a drill or dremel tool, put the screw in a vice and brush it off, I've done it and it works.

 

[thecollector]

When taking off a free floating handguard you have to heat to about 750 degrees to get it hot enough to start to get it to turn because of the same problem. Heat with map gas if possible, put some thread loosener on it and when it starts to boil up, just a little more heat and then it will clean off.

 

[louielouie]

Indianajeff,

I tried a wire wheel but was starting to dull the threads too much.

thecollector,

I have a Mapp Torch, but how hot can I get the screw without affecting the temper (or do I need to worry about the temper)?

Thanks to both of you,


louielouie

 

[Martin Draco]

You said you had a 1/2x28 tap and die. Why don't you just make a pass with the die over the screw?

 

[Indianajeff]

You said you had a 1/2x28 tap and die. Why don't you just make a pass with the die over the screw?

Genious!!! That would work

 

[louielouie]

I wish the die would do it.

The worst part of the red "crud" is the fact that it is so close to the end of the screw that even trying to start it into a die is hap-hazard.
That's why it is so easy to cross-thread.

I have ordered another screw that has blue threadlocker on it and it is not on the end of the screw.

louielouie

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

just when i think my life is hard...

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

Kidding. Try contact cleaner or kroil. The wire wheel won't hurt anything. Heating with MAP gas usually won't heat it enough to mess with the temper.

 

[IndyGunworks]

When taking off a free floating handguard you have to heat to about 750 degrees to get it hot enough to start to get it to turn because of the same problem. Heat with map gas if possible, put some thread loosener on it and when it starts to boil up, just a little more heat and then it will clean off.

pretty broad advice. first not all free floating handguards even use locktite, in fact, very few do. most are fairly straightforward w/ their removal.

second, 750 degrees is VERY hot, hot enough to effect the temper of ALOT of gunparts.

red locktight looses its bond at around 300 degrees.

 

[louielouie]

A little bit of heat, a little acetone, a little picking at it with a knife.
It's done and already installed.

Thanks to everyone!!

louielouie