FireBirdDS
Expert
This is for everyone new to carrying looking around for a holster for your new carry piece (whether concealed or open). Resist that urge to grab the first generic holster that catches your eye on the gun store shelf or gun show table. The holster is one of the pieces of carry gear that can mean the difference between life and death, and no corners should be cut. It is also an area where personal preference has a very wide latitude, where one make and model of holster is going to work like a dream for some and not work at all for others. I do believe however that there are guidelines that everyone serious about carrying should consider when looking for an EDC holster. These are guidelines that I’ve learned in only my 2 years of carrying so far, so some of you carry veterans out there who’ve been at it longer will undoubtedly have additional and/or more refined guidelines. Your wisdom would be greatly appreciated in this discussion. 
“Universal” holsters are all-around universal crap.
Any holster that has a list of pistols it will “fit” that spans beyond a single manufacturer and platform should be ignored. They are nothing more than an attempt of low-end manufacturers to reach the widest market possible in the most cost and corner cutting way possible. At best it can be a “slide” holster that is meant for a line of pistols from the same manufacturer, though this mainly applies to hard shell OWB holsters. One example would be Fobus paddle holsters fitted for the Springfield XD/XDM line that are fitted to the general shape of the slide and trigger guard. Fobus holsters are among the more economical options of “fitted” holsters and are an example of the minimum one should buy if on a super-tight budget.
Avoid any soft sleeve holsters.
I am a strong believer that one should select an OC or CC hard shell or fitted leather holster that is molded to their specific gun, one that snaps securely around the trigger guard. Security around the trigger guard is the one area there can be no expense spared and no corner cut, especially for Glocks or any other gun with no manual or grip safety. There can’t be any risk of snagging or manipulating of the trigger in any way. If carrying concealed, your pistol needs to have it’s own space, no ifs, ands, or buts. A hard-shell CC holster will do just that in it will MAKE room for your pistol whether it’s holstered or not and will provide security for the trigger guard (especially for appendix carriers with the muzzle pointed at your junk). Kydex holsters are very durable and provide a very smooth draw. Fitted leather holsters will protect the gun’s finish, though they have higher drawing friction when bought new and need their own break-in period and/or inside friction-reducing leather treatment. If you're having trouble concealing a hardshell holster, I suggest you go to Comp-Tac, Raven, or some other reputable holster manufacturer and buy one of their minimalist kydex holsters that protects the trigger guard. (The raven vanguard isn't a terrible option) Another option is to look into appendix carry, as it can be a lot easier for many people to conceal their firearm in front.
Front sight snag
“Slide” holsters that are open around the muzzle designed to fit a specific pistol line with varying barrel lengths need to be tested for any possible snag of the front sight upon drawing. The more barrel that is sticking past the holster the higher the snag risk. I’m very cautious of elastic “belly band” holsters or shirts with elastic holster pouches that are open around the muzzle as there is a very high risk of the front sight snagging unless your front sight is sloped (ex. revolver front sight)
“Get a grip!”
Your grip and finger positioning as you go to draw your pistol needs to be the same grip and finger positioning as when in your preferred firing stance. Any holster that would cause you to have to re-position or re-seat your grip upon drawing should be avoided. A critical area is the corner area between the grip and trigger guard where the middle finger rests. This is an area where you do indeed want the corner cut (literally). A good holster will allow your middle finger to seat firmly up into that corner and around the grip of the weapon.
Leather-backed double clip IWB holster rigs (Crossbreed Supertucks, Comp-Tac Minotaurs, among other similar rigs) need to have room cut around the entire pistol grip. (though there has been concern expressed by some of the magazine release button being inadvertently pressed while sitting)
Draw the gun, not the holster too!
Holsters that clip to the belt rather than belt loop need to be metal clips fitted to the correct belt size (1.5” is the usual width) and need to have a secure grip on the bottom rim of the belt, especially for holsters set with a high retention. Cheap plastic standard clips are more prone to slippage than quality metal clips. J-hook clips hook behind and under the belt and eliminate the risk of slippage entirely (and are consequently even more discrete for tuckable holsters).
Paddle holsters cannot be worn with a loose belt. A holster can't be too tight either. If the holster is too tight you'll neither get the gun out nor the holster off of your belt and you'll find yourself neutralized before the fight even starts. This is especially important to check for with new holsters. Raven holsters in particular often need to be broken in to reduce crazy tight retention. This can be achieved by either constantly drawing the gun out of the holster, or leaving the gun halfway in the holster overnight to stretch out the kydex.
Keep it simple!
Any holster needs to be solid and simple with as few or no connecting points or moving parts as possible. Any safe and reliable holster should not be "some assembly required". This is likely to spark a debate, but I am weary of holsters with retention buttons or back straps. Though they offer the highest security from a gun grab from behind (no mechanical security can replace situational awareness) they also represent a fine motor skill in that it must be disengaged before the gun can be a drawn. Fine motor skills can and will disappear when the adrenaline spikes and the caveman inside comes out and is mindlessly tugging at a pistol inside a holster that “for some reason” won’t let go. (lest one trains with this holster religiously and is able to do it in his or her sleep)
Life is expensive. Holsters are cheap.
You're going to see the price of quality holsters and instinctually gag. 90$?!?!?! That's insane!!!
Yes, quality holsters are expensive and that sucks. However, your ability to safely carry and/or conceal your pistol is paramount to successfully and "comfortably" carrying a gun. (Comfort is relative. No gun is as comfortable as not carrying one. You'll get used to it. Remember that a gun should be comforting not comfortable.) Furthermore, as stated above, getting a solid grip on the first count of your draw stroke is the bedrock of delivering fast and accurate fire on your target.
I asked Aaron1776, who works in the ER, for some information, and he had these numbers to offer to put things into perspective:
Price of a quality holster: 60-100$
Now let's look at the cost of an ER visit because your Glock went off in your pants and shot you in the leg, or you got shot because you couldn't get a good grip and failed to make a neutralizing hit before getting shot yourself.
Activation charge for trauma care: 15,000+$
Cost of surgery, hospital stay, etc.: 100,000+$
Decent health insurance will do an 80/20 split.
Your cost before physical therapy, lost work time, follow up Dr. visits, etc: Approx: 25,000$
That is assuming you don't cut your femoral artery and die.
Cost of failing to get a good grip, dropping your gun, and you and your spouse get killed because of it: Immeasurable.
That 100$ holster isn't looking so bad now, is it?
Furthermore that expensive holster will hold up to wear, and you won't have to keep replacing it like you will a cheap one.
“Universal” holsters are all-around universal crap.
Any holster that has a list of pistols it will “fit” that spans beyond a single manufacturer and platform should be ignored. They are nothing more than an attempt of low-end manufacturers to reach the widest market possible in the most cost and corner cutting way possible. At best it can be a “slide” holster that is meant for a line of pistols from the same manufacturer, though this mainly applies to hard shell OWB holsters. One example would be Fobus paddle holsters fitted for the Springfield XD/XDM line that are fitted to the general shape of the slide and trigger guard. Fobus holsters are among the more economical options of “fitted” holsters and are an example of the minimum one should buy if on a super-tight budget.
Avoid any soft sleeve holsters.
I am a strong believer that one should select an OC or CC hard shell or fitted leather holster that is molded to their specific gun, one that snaps securely around the trigger guard. Security around the trigger guard is the one area there can be no expense spared and no corner cut, especially for Glocks or any other gun with no manual or grip safety. There can’t be any risk of snagging or manipulating of the trigger in any way. If carrying concealed, your pistol needs to have it’s own space, no ifs, ands, or buts. A hard-shell CC holster will do just that in it will MAKE room for your pistol whether it’s holstered or not and will provide security for the trigger guard (especially for appendix carriers with the muzzle pointed at your junk). Kydex holsters are very durable and provide a very smooth draw. Fitted leather holsters will protect the gun’s finish, though they have higher drawing friction when bought new and need their own break-in period and/or inside friction-reducing leather treatment. If you're having trouble concealing a hardshell holster, I suggest you go to Comp-Tac, Raven, or some other reputable holster manufacturer and buy one of their minimalist kydex holsters that protects the trigger guard. (The raven vanguard isn't a terrible option) Another option is to look into appendix carry, as it can be a lot easier for many people to conceal their firearm in front.
Front sight snag
“Slide” holsters that are open around the muzzle designed to fit a specific pistol line with varying barrel lengths need to be tested for any possible snag of the front sight upon drawing. The more barrel that is sticking past the holster the higher the snag risk. I’m very cautious of elastic “belly band” holsters or shirts with elastic holster pouches that are open around the muzzle as there is a very high risk of the front sight snagging unless your front sight is sloped (ex. revolver front sight)
“Get a grip!”
Your grip and finger positioning as you go to draw your pistol needs to be the same grip and finger positioning as when in your preferred firing stance. Any holster that would cause you to have to re-position or re-seat your grip upon drawing should be avoided. A critical area is the corner area between the grip and trigger guard where the middle finger rests. This is an area where you do indeed want the corner cut (literally). A good holster will allow your middle finger to seat firmly up into that corner and around the grip of the weapon.
Leather-backed double clip IWB holster rigs (Crossbreed Supertucks, Comp-Tac Minotaurs, among other similar rigs) need to have room cut around the entire pistol grip. (though there has been concern expressed by some of the magazine release button being inadvertently pressed while sitting)
Draw the gun, not the holster too!
Holsters that clip to the belt rather than belt loop need to be metal clips fitted to the correct belt size (1.5” is the usual width) and need to have a secure grip on the bottom rim of the belt, especially for holsters set with a high retention. Cheap plastic standard clips are more prone to slippage than quality metal clips. J-hook clips hook behind and under the belt and eliminate the risk of slippage entirely (and are consequently even more discrete for tuckable holsters).
Paddle holsters cannot be worn with a loose belt. A holster can't be too tight either. If the holster is too tight you'll neither get the gun out nor the holster off of your belt and you'll find yourself neutralized before the fight even starts. This is especially important to check for with new holsters. Raven holsters in particular often need to be broken in to reduce crazy tight retention. This can be achieved by either constantly drawing the gun out of the holster, or leaving the gun halfway in the holster overnight to stretch out the kydex.
Keep it simple!
Any holster needs to be solid and simple with as few or no connecting points or moving parts as possible. Any safe and reliable holster should not be "some assembly required". This is likely to spark a debate, but I am weary of holsters with retention buttons or back straps. Though they offer the highest security from a gun grab from behind (no mechanical security can replace situational awareness) they also represent a fine motor skill in that it must be disengaged before the gun can be a drawn. Fine motor skills can and will disappear when the adrenaline spikes and the caveman inside comes out and is mindlessly tugging at a pistol inside a holster that “for some reason” won’t let go. (lest one trains with this holster religiously and is able to do it in his or her sleep)
Life is expensive. Holsters are cheap.
You're going to see the price of quality holsters and instinctually gag. 90$?!?!?! That's insane!!!
Yes, quality holsters are expensive and that sucks. However, your ability to safely carry and/or conceal your pistol is paramount to successfully and "comfortably" carrying a gun. (Comfort is relative. No gun is as comfortable as not carrying one. You'll get used to it. Remember that a gun should be comforting not comfortable.) Furthermore, as stated above, getting a solid grip on the first count of your draw stroke is the bedrock of delivering fast and accurate fire on your target.
I asked Aaron1776, who works in the ER, for some information, and he had these numbers to offer to put things into perspective:
Price of a quality holster: 60-100$
Now let's look at the cost of an ER visit because your Glock went off in your pants and shot you in the leg, or you got shot because you couldn't get a good grip and failed to make a neutralizing hit before getting shot yourself.
Activation charge for trauma care: 15,000+$
Cost of surgery, hospital stay, etc.: 100,000+$
Decent health insurance will do an 80/20 split.
Your cost before physical therapy, lost work time, follow up Dr. visits, etc: Approx: 25,000$
That is assuming you don't cut your femoral artery and die.
Cost of failing to get a good grip, dropping your gun, and you and your spouse get killed because of it: Immeasurable.
That 100$ holster isn't looking so bad now, is it?
Furthermore that expensive holster will hold up to wear, and you won't have to keep replacing it like you will a cheap one.
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