Gunsmithing question... heating threads question

[redneckmedic]

I've got a muzzle break on my savage. 308 that was made and installed by Stockade Gun Stocks - specializing in custom rifles and I can't get it off for my host QD. I'm assuming its lock-tited on there (waiting to hear back for sure). If it is, and I need heat to remove it, what is the best technique with my hand held butaine as to not fubar the barrel or finish?

Thx RNM

 

[the1kidd03]

I've got a muzzle break on my savage. 308 that was made and installed by Stockade Gun Stocks - specializing in custom rifles and I can't get it off for my host QD. I'm assuming its lock-tited on there (waiting to hear back for sure). If it is, and I need heat to remove it, what is the best technique with my hand held butaine as to not fubar the barrel or finish?

Thx RNM

not to do it, lol

 

[Classic Liberal]

If it's silver soldered you'll need a good nozzle and plenty of blue flame. Adding oxygen helps. Not sure about finish issues.

 

[usmcdjb]

Looking at a tube extension for my Benelli M4, and saw where someone said they used loctite on the factory one. Whatever I read said to hit it with a hot air gun to loosen it. Take it for what it's worth.

 

[42769vette]

is locktite water soluable? im asking not telling? im wondering if you hould put it in hot water for a bit and turn the loctite back to a liquid.

 

[redneckmedic]

What about wrapping the barrel in alumnum foil first?

 

[hooky]

Depends on the loctite. Blue is just just a little more pressure, Red is 500 degrees. The industrial stuff runs the similar gamut, but I'm guessing it would be the permanent variety given the heat generated via muzzle blast.

I don't think any of their thread lockers are water soluble.

 

[longbarrel]

Think it would be special thread locker because if were just locktite, the heat from firing would work it loose? Would think

 

[the1kidd03]

red loctite is meant to never be broken...blue is meant to be removable

 

[slowmo]

I was reading on ARFCOM about perm attaching a flash hider on a 14.5 inch ar with silver solder. They recommended this stuff to protect your barrel.

HEAT STOP™ HEAT CONTROL PASTE - Brownells

I didn't end up going this route, so I can't vouch for it. But your thread reminded me of it.

 

[showmeapair]

I would try the heat gun first. It shouldn't take much heat to loosen lock tight.

 

[jmdavis984]

Lock-tite, even the red stuff, is not "permanent." It just takes a little more effort to break it. I would do a couple heat cycles, then apply good heat and attempt to remove. THe cycles should help "loosen" the bonds that the lick-tite has developed with the threads. I can't speak for the finish either though. I watched a vid from Midway USA where they soldered a permanent swivel stud to the barrel, and the barrel was all colors of heat. This was a raw barrel that hadn't been blued.

 

[95wrangler]

Go put some rounds through it to heat it up!

 

[1371MARINE]

If it is soldered, it should be very apparent. I'm guessing it's loctite or rockset, etc... A little heat should do it. Also try some "Kroil" after a little heating, let it set a while and try loosing it before heating again. The heat will expand the gap between the threading and the surface of the loctite to allow the kroil to seep in. It has great creeping properties by it's own right. A really great product that has saved my ass more than I care to remember. Let us know if this works for you

 

[Psode27]

I had this problem on a CETME a few years ago. What I did was dermal down the length of the muzzle device on opposite sides being careful not to get into any threaded area or barrel. Cut clear through on the area extending past the barrel. I then took a chisel and pounded straight down spreading the muzzle device open like a clam shell. I didn't pound toward the barrel, just more sideways/lateral to the barrel. It surprisingly well. Obviously this is a last ditch thing as I'm sure you probably don't wat to start destroying things on your rifle. I would try anything else first!

 

[1911ly]

Blue Locktite can be broken loose usually without heat. It is not heat resistant. Red takes heat to loosen. Usually a lot! It is semi heat resistant. That is usually what you will see on a barrel nut/break so forth. Yellow equals you're screw. Gotta just about use a cutting torch. All are water and oil resistant.

Look for threads or the signs of a jam nut. Take a pic of the break where it meets the barrel. We should be able to tell from that. I would not be surprised if it is soldered. If it is I would leave it and invest in another break. If it is soldered the barrel end probably has been turned to size to fit the break.

 

[cwillour]

If it is Loctite, heat is your solution since even the red softens around 500 degrees. If it is Rocksett, OTOH, your best bet is to soak it in water for 24hrs since it is rated at 2000+ degrees. I suggest waiting to hear back from Stockade as to which they use before going forward.

From what I could find online, it seems the majority of companies prefer Rocksett over Loctite for muzzle devices.

 

[hrearden]

I had this problem on a CETME a few years ago. What I did was dermal down the length of the muzzle device on opposite sides being careful not to get into any threaded area or barrel. Cut clear through on the area extending past the barrel. I then took a chisel and pounded straight down spreading the muzzle device open like a clam shell. I didn't pound toward the barrel, just more sideways/lateral to the barrel. It surprisingly well. Obviously this is a last ditch thing as I'm sure you probably don't wat to start destroying things on your rifle. I would try anything else first!

My L1A1 required the same thing to remove the stock Century "loudener".