Gun Vault

[mdh11292]

Has anyone had experience building a safe or vault. I've seen articles on using block and/ or poored concrete. Any thoughts?

 

[CountryBoy19]

IMHO, poured concrete is best if you can.

What level of security are you looking for? I can give you lots of little tips/pointers to help you out if you want extra security.

I've never done it, but I plan to convert an all concrete area of my basement into a vault this spring/summer.

 

[mdh11292]

I was thinking of using block reinforced with rebar and concrete for the walls. The floor and ceiling would be poored. The door and locking mechanism is the big question.

 

[bw210]

Laying block is for slower hands, slower timetable and very forgiving. Very stable with re-rod in cores and filled with wet concrete to fill all the voids. Re-rod should have been drilled in concrete base or floor.

Pouring concrete is not forgiving. Forms must be placed exactly where you want them. They must be reinforced so the forms don't" blow out" from pressure. Door opening must be firm so no bows or sags occur - if they do, your door will give you fits when installing. Remember, most concrete companies have a minumin load fee - you pay extra for small batches or order extrs. The company I use, Transit-Mix will deliver 5 yards without extra fee for contractors - not sure about everybody else.

Remember the top and bottom. If your going through the effort, don't skimp. Concrete, cement board, etc can fireproof your vault on all sides.

Condensation will be a problem. You should line the interior with blue/pink true polystyrene foam and cover with drywall or plywood. Electric is also needed. A simple 20amp feed run in metal conduit should supply all your light/ de-humidifier, etc needs.

Heat/air-conditioning is a luxury and not necessary if you control moisture.

As far as the door goes, we all would like a 3-4K vault door. I used a $100 commercial steel door, cut to size, wrapped front in 10guage sheetmetal and used 6 4" entry hinges. Master lock boltcutter-proof clasps on handle side above & below with commercial lockset and hardened locks on clasps will keep almost everybody out except professionals.

For added security, I framed around with studs and place insulation over door - at even a long glance or stare, it just looks like part of unfinished wall. A piece of drywall with enough screws to hold will enhance hiding ( as in my case, I have a hidden vault full of stuff and exposed gunsafe with stuff I shoot often and jobbox locked with bags and ammo )

Just a quick go-over of what I did - any questions, just pm me.

Hope this helps

 

[mdh11292]

Should the concrete board mount to the block then the insulation to the cement board. I was planning on the cement board, but didn't think about condensation.

 

[bw210]

Should the concrete board mount to the block then the insulation to the cement board. I was planning on the cement board, but didn't think about condensation.

You won't need cement board on block - only to cover ceiling joists, studded wood walls and/or floor? Several layers will provide more fire resistance. Foam over block/cement board will help stop heat transfer(condensation) then covered - foam is soft. "Golden rods" and/or de-humidifier with drain tube will handle the rest Covered in greenboard w/polystyrene APPROVED glue would be nice, covered in plywood will provide layer to use screws for shelves, hanging, etc instead of tap-con's or cement power nailer every time you want to change/add.

 

[Greenmonsta79]

Just make a secret room that way if the thief breaks in he won't even see a safe or room that might house something valuable! Oh and you would have to rig the door mechanism to a secret book that you pull on just like in the movies!! Yes!

 

[bw210]

Just make a secret room that way if the thief breaks in he won't even see a safe or room that might house something valuable! Oh and you would have to rig the door mechanism to a secret book that you pull on just like in the movies!! Yes!

Mine started out as a cellar protruding from the foundation footprint. A covered door is easily accessible and doesn't look funny in the basement. No movie door rig though

 

[hornadylnl]

Vault Door Manufacturer Gun Vault Door Manufacturer Heavy

I'm having a 26'x22' vault room built into my basement with a concrete ceiling. I'm getting a vault door from the company above. They are near Toledo.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Ok, even though the question regarding desired security wasn't answered I'll throw my little gems of wisdom in here in case you're looking for extra security.

Poured concrete will be stronger than a block wall. If you're doing this yourself, block wall may be best for you depending on your abilities. But if you're hiring it done, IMHO you should just have everything poured.

Defending against cutting attacks:
Lead and aluminum foul abrasive masonry blades very well. Consider adding aluminum and/or lead into the wall somehow to slow down a cutting attack.

Block wall considerations:
Think about building the block wall with rebar down the voids, and then pour the voids full of concrete for added reinforcement. AL or Pb could be added in the form of Al rebar or Pb "chunks" in the concrete fill.

Poured Concrete considerations:
You could use lead chunks as part of the aggregate in the concrete, but this would require mixing yourself, or dealing with a concrete company that would be willing to deal with the hassle of running a special batch like that. You could also use Al rebar as part of the reinforcement in the walls. The more rebar the better protection you have against a "smashing" attack. It doesn't take much work with a sledge hammer to break concrete, so if a perp has enough time, you're going to want lots of steel for them to cut through after they get the concrete knocked away.

Regarding a door, get the best door you can afford. This is the most commonly attacked part and typically the better the door, the more time it'll buy you. But remember, these things only buy time, they won't completely prevent an attack.