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Gun safe on sale at menards
- Thread starter avcautoinc
- Start date
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BehindBlueI's
Grandmaster
- Oct 3, 2012
- 26,608
- 113
My Ft. Knox went through two burglaries unscathed, but its a lot more costly than a cheap safe. If you can afford a better safe, than its just that, better. However a lot of folks just want something to keep the kid's hands off the guns and to deter a casual thief.
I went with the expensive safe because at the time I lived in the sticks, had no alarm system, lived in a house that couldn't be secured very well...basically if anyone broke in they would have all day and could make as much noise as they wanted. Someone living in town with nearby neighbors and an alarm system may be able to get buy with a cheaper safe.
Libertys aren't exactly cheap safes, it is according to what model he had also, if he had a cheap $300-$500 safe then what exactly did he expect. And I don't believe for a second someone could simply cut a higher end safe with a sawzall. That would eat up a lot of blades and a lot of time. And if by some miracle they did it a higher end one with a sawzall, I would definitely like to know what type of battery they used. Also if your unfamiliar with liberty safes you may actually want to take a look at one, not only would they have had to cut a good 3-4" at the top of the door just to cut through the 1"thick steel locking bolts but they would also have to cut through the dead bolts on the right side of the safe, Then the ones on the left, and then cut through the ones at the bottom, I don't know of any sawzall battery that could last that long, nor a blade that could hold up (they could use multiple blades, but then there is also the plate of steel to cut through to get to the bolts. All of this to "cut the door off" maybe an industrial size cutting wheel, but not a sawzall.
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Where on the door did they cut? My Liberty mid level would be very difficult to use a sawzall on.
Many Liberty safes have a massive gap around the doors. From the picture he showed me, it looked like a pry bar was inserted into the top corner of the door. A hole was punctured through the steel that allowed the saw to enter. If you think that the steel is 3-4" thick at the top of your Liberty safe, you're crazy. Look inside the safe at the edge of the metal. It is VERY thin. Most of the thickness you see is the fire board. When a thief isn't worried about making a lot of noise or taking a little while, it's apparently pretty easy to cut the door off of a Liberty. I would assume that Liberty is assuming some fault for the break in since they gave him a voucher for a free new safe.
Here is a cutaway of the door on a Liberty Safe:
The one I have with electronic lock has a key back up... Just don't keep your key in the safe
Yep! I work at Menards, and I can assure you, this 40 gun safe will not hold 40 guns, unless it's all pistols. It's a decent size, but doubt you could cram in 40 guns.
Do you have any safes with scratches or dents at your store? I remember awhile back people were getting some safes like that at Menards for a really low price because of a little damage.
BehindBlueI's
Grandmaster
- Oct 3, 2012
- 26,608
- 113
Many, if not most, safe companies have a warranty that they will replace the safe if its damaged in a burglary or fire.
Liberty Safes - Warranty - PART C - LIBERTY'S WARRANTY
Warranty | Fort Knox
etc. etc.
We don't have any right now. We usually only have those after a curtain model isn't going to be carried by us anymore and we want to get rid of the floor model. We had one around january, but it went after only a few days. Those tend to move very quickly.
my liberty doesn't have that much space around the door, I guess I could see them using a pry bar, but I believe it would still be extremely difficult to cut the locking bolts with a sawzall. The independence models do have very thin steel, I didn't mean the bolts were 3-4" inches, I meant the over all thickness of the door, sorry for the confusion.Many Liberty safes have a massive gap around the doors. From the picture he showed me, it looked like a pry bar was inserted into the top corner of the door. A hole was punctured through the steel that allowed the saw to enter. If you think that the steel is 3-4" thick at the top of your Liberty safe, you're crazy. Look inside the safe at the edge of the metal. It is VERY thin. Most of the thickness you see is the fire board. When a thief isn't worried about making a lot of noise or taking a little while, it's apparently pretty easy to cut the door off of a Liberty. I would assume that Liberty is assuming some fault for the break in since they gave him a voucher for a free new safe.
Here is a cutaway of the door on a Liberty Safe:
If I was going to break into a safe I would not even think of cutting the bolts or cutting the door off. Im not going to say how I would do it but after looking at how all gun safes Ive seen are built there are much easier ways.
The other sides of the safe have much thinner steel usually.
I don't care who makes the safe, it can be broken into. What makes me nervous about the safes I see on sale is that I've used a Metabo with cutting disks plenty of times at work and at home and they make short work of anything made of steel. The last fall I repaired a neighbors trailer deck where he had some grating that was falling apart. The metabo cut through 1/2" welds in just seconds. Check out the video below and give it some thought to how secure you feel with your safe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8h6_kA6Cf4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8h6_kA6Cf4
