Glass bedding a 10/22?

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  • rbane3

    Marksman
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    Oct 12, 2014
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    Richmond
    I've finally ordered my Boyd's Evolution SS 10/22 stock in Forest Camo. Some of the reviews I've read and watched have mentioned some movement while in the stock due to a less than glove-like fit. If this is indeed the case with my stock, I was wondering about glass bedding. Is it a process that a relative novice can and or should attempt? What's a fair price for a gunsmith? Is it even possible for a 10/22?

    Thanks for any help you can offer!
     

    DRob

    Grandmaster
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    Aug 2, 2008
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    Southside of Indy
    Visit rimfirecentral.com. All the info you'll ever need on a 10/22. Years ago a couple of the old time 10/22 gurus actually full length bedded the barrels rather than the usual practice of bedding a rifle's receiver and floating the barrel. Remember you are hanging a steel pipe (heavy one if you have a .920 barrel) on an aluminum receiver secured in the stock by one screw.
     

    midget

    Master
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    6   0   0
    Apr 2, 2010
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    Leo
    Visit rimfirecentral.com. All the info you'll ever need on a 10/22. Years ago a couple of the old time 10/22 gurus actually full length bedded the barrels rather than the usual practice of bedding a rifle's receiver and floating the barrel. Remember you are hanging a steel pipe (heavy one if you have a .920 barrel) on an aluminum receiver secured in the stock by one screw.

    I know several people who have had good success with bedding the first few inches of the barrel, and then floating the rest.
     

    seedubs1

    Master
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    Jan 17, 2013
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    Yes.....rimfirecentral.com has the BEST sticky for bedding a 10/22.

    I'd suggest doing the Pillar Bedding mod described in RFC's stickies. You use two brass couplings, modify them a bit, drill out the stock, then secure the pillars in place with Devcon 10110 (best bedding compound you'll find).

    After you have your front pillar done, inlet the rear of the stock and bed with Devcon 10110. You need to support the barrel and keep it centered in the stock while bedding the rear of the stock to make sure the barrel/action doesn't end up placed all wonky in your stock while the bedding sets. Otherwise, your action/barrel will be crooked in your stock.

    After you have the pillar and rear bedding done, inlet a small portion under the barrel and bed with Devcon 10110. RFC has some stickies on either finding the sweet spot to bed under the barrel, or a generic location that works pretty dang well across the board.

    You have to bed a 10/22 in three steps like that, letting everything set up and dry inbetween the steps. It's not like bedding a normal center fire because the action is secured to the stock by one bolt. Then the action just teeter totters about that screw and is supported by touch points in front and behind (you bed all touch points).

    Note that unless you send it to CPC to get your barrel/receiver threaded, your barrel is just a slip fit in a hole with a V block and bolt holding it in. That's one reason to bed under a portion of your barrel. Otherwise, your barrel could potentially "droop." Another reason is because, like I mentioned earlier, your action is only screwed to the pillar/stock in one spot, so you need to have support in front (under the barrel) and behind (where you bed the rear of the action). Some guys on RFC have done different things with threaded barrel/receivers, bedding under the front portion of the receiver, having a rear tang installed, etc... but if you're just using a standard configuration (single screw holding action to the stock and keeping the V Block) I'd keep to the tried and true and don't free float the entire barrel.

    Good luck! Best advise is to read the stickies in RFC. They have VERY good directions.
     
    Last edited:

    rbane3

    Marksman
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    1   0   0
    Oct 12, 2014
    153
    18
    Richmond
    Yes.....rimfirecentral.com has the BEST sticky for bedding a 10/22.

    I'd suggest doing the Pillar Bedding mod described in RFC's stickies. You use two brass couplings, modify them a bit, drill out the stock, then secure the pillars in place with Devcon 10110 (best bedding compound you'll find).

    After you have your front pillar done, inlet the rear of the stock and bed with Devcon 10110. You need to support the barrel and keep it centered in the stock while bedding the rear of the stock to make sure the barrel/action doesn't end up placed all wonky in your stock while the bedding sets. Otherwise, your action/barrel will be crooked in your stock.

    After you have the pillar and rear bedding done, inlet a small portion under the barrel and bed with Devcon 10110. RFC has some stickies on either finding the sweet spot to bed under the barrel, or a generic location that works pretty dang well across the board.

    You have to bed a 10/22 in three steps like that, letting everything set up and dry inbetween the steps. It's not like bedding a normal center fire because the action is secured to the stock by one bolt. Then the action just teeter totters about that screw and is supported by touch points in front and behind (you bed all touch points).

    Note that unless you send it to CPC to get your barrel/receiver threaded, your barrel is just a slip fit in a hole with a V block and bolt holding it in. That's one reason to bed under a portion of your barrel. Otherwise, your barrel could potentially "droop." Another reason is because, like I mentioned earlier, your action is only screwed to the pillar/stock in one spot, so you need to have support in front (under the barrel) and behind (where you bed the rear of the action). Some guys on RFC have done different things with threaded barrel/receivers, bedding under the front portion of the receiver, having a rear tang installed, etc... but if you're just using a standard configuration (single screw holding action to the stock and keeping the V Block) I'd keep to the tried and true and don't free float the entire barrel.

    Good luck! Best advise is to read the stickies in RFC. They have VERY good directions.

    Thank you guys for all the information! I hadn't checked back in because I got lost in the morass that is rimfirecentral. Ha. So I've ordered a titanium upgrade kit from raven eye customs with a titanium eschucheon and pillar for pillar bedding, I'm not so nervous about that prospect as I am the barrel/receiver bedding. I just don't have the work space, tools, or experience to go about the project with any confidence.

    I've read the stickies at RFC, and watched a few videos..I'm just really nervous. Hell I replaced the digitizer and screen on my cellphone having only watched one youtube video! But I have so much invested in this rifle already I'd hate to screw anything up.

    I contacted a gunsmith near my current location asking if they were taking on projects, explaining what I'd like done, and asking about a quote. He said he'd get back to me but hasn't yet. Lol. I have asked at a couple gun shops in Richmond who I might turn to but didn't get much helpful advice. Apparently "the guy" in Hagerstown has closed up shop! I have a few more LGS to nag for advice... but I thought I would turn back to INGO for help! Any and all welcome :)
     

    rbane3

    Marksman
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    1   0   0
    Oct 12, 2014
    153
    18
    Richmond
    Visited the gunshops in the area. No joy; including those that advertise "gunsmithing." Had a really bad experience at the last one where the guy, on my explaining what I'd like done, replies "We don't do **** like that." I'll expand my search a bit on both sides. Any recommendations in Indy or Dayton? Price estimates appreciated.
     

    seedubs1

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    Jan 17, 2013
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    That's extremely bad business practice to be rude to customers just because you don't offer a service. Post up what shop that was. I'd like to put them on my boycott list.

    This type of stuff is extremely time intensive. It takes a long time to properly bed a 10/22 since you have to do it in 3 separate steps. It'll cost you an arm and a leg IF you can find a gun smith that will even take the job on. And most won't want to deal with it.

    Best bet is to get a drill press, dremel, a couple of those brass fittings, a tub of Devcon 10110, and have at it yourself. You likely already know more about how to properly bed a 10/22 than most gunsmiths since you've been reading over at RFC.

    Visited the gunshops in the area. No joy; including those that advertise "gunsmithing." Had a really bad experience at the last one where the guy, on my explaining what I'd like done, replies "We don't do **** like that." I'll expand my search a bit on both sides. Any recommendations in Indy or Dayton? Price estimates appreciated.
     

    rbane3

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Oct 12, 2014
    153
    18
    Richmond
    That's extremely bad business practice to be rude to customers just because you don't offer a service. Post up what shop that was. I'd like to put them on my boycott list.

    This type of stuff is extremely time intensive. It takes a long time to properly bed a 10/22 since you have to do it in 3 separate steps. It'll cost you an arm and a leg IF you can find a gun smith that will even take the job on. And most won't want to deal with it.

    Best bet is to get a drill press, dremel, a couple of those brass fittings, a tub of Devcon 10110, and have at it yourself. You likely already know more about how to properly bed a 10/22 than most gunsmiths since you've been reading over at RFC.

    Thank you for the response. I'm hoping the fact that I was there about 20 minutes before close had something to do with the rude response. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. But if I have more unfriendly encounters there I'll be sure to let everyone know.

    I'm definitely coming around. I'm really nervous, but I can see how the time involved would be costly. The only tools that I don't have to complete the project are C clamps (I've seen other options and I'm sure I could borrow some) and a drill press for the pillar inletting. Any advice when it comes to accurately drilling the inlet without a press, or a serviceable yet inexpensive tool for the job?
     

    Cameramonkey

    www.thechosen.tv
    Staff member
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    35   0   0
    May 12, 2013
    33,201
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    Camby area
    Thank you for the response. I'm hoping the fact that I was there about 20 minutes before close had something to do with the rude response. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. But if I have more unfriendly encounters there I'll be sure to let everyone know.

    I'm definitely coming around. I'm really nervous, but I can see how the time involved would be costly. The only tools that I don't have to complete the project are C clamps (I've seen other options and I'm sure I could borrow some) and a drill press for the pillar inletting. Any advice when it comes to accurately drilling the inlet without a press, or a serviceable yet inexpensive tool for the job?

    20 Minutes? Thats no excuse. Now if you walked in and said "I need you to bed this and I need to pick it up by COB today." Then it could warrant some attitude.

    I'm far enough away it doesnt matter, but another vote for name and shame. The proper and professional response is "Sorry, we dont do that here. You might try calling... ".
     

    seedubs1

    Master
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    Jan 17, 2013
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    My advice is to get a cheap bench top drill press on Craigslist and a few clamps. You can find a decent press for like $30-40.

    I'm definitely coming around. I'm really nervous, but I can see how the time involved would be costly. The only tools that I don't have to complete the project are C clamps (I've seen other options and I'm sure I could borrow some) and a drill press for the pillar inletting. Any advice when it comes to accurately drilling the inlet without a press, or a serviceable yet inexpensive tool for the job?
     

    Simon6101

    Master
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    161   0   0
    May 3, 2008
    2,599
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    Sw Indy(Camby)
    I own a lot of 10/22's and since I don't like to pay for gunsmithing I have found that the felt squares(like you put under a lamp to keep from scratching a table) will tighten up the action in the stock and help a lot.
     

    Hop

    Grandmaster
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    16   0   0
    Jan 21, 2008
    5,108
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    Indy
    You can also tighten it up using foil furnace tape. Stick it on then trim with an Exacto. My new 10/22 stock is really loose. Like a teeter totter! I almost think they did it that way on purpose to force me into bedding it.
     
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