Generator and hook up

[jedi]

First thing I did was test to see waht it would run. I have gas heat, and stove, so furnace would run, just have to power a motor. Don't run the dryer draws too much. And just towel the hair in an emergency. But 5600w seems plenty for a freezer, fridge, 1 TV at a time, and nessary lighting, we tend to go conservative during the two emergencies that have caused us to runon gen power. But still going to get 7000w, for more reserve. That seems to be Minimum for whole house backup, from what I've read.

There is a ref. page in this ebook that can help you get figure of how much wattage you need for your home stuff.

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...shtf_tornando_lessons_learned.html#post140870


7000 W may sound like a lot but it's the "start up power" on stuff that can get you in trouble. Start up wattage is typically 3 times the running wattage but it's only needs for a few seconds at most.

However if your gen does not have it (enought wattage) or the room for it then that item won't start and your generator may turn off or get damaged.

If you are considereing a "portable" generator (what you see in the home improvement stores [lowes, menards, etc] skip those and go the route of an industrial portable generator. Those have more power for doing your whole house then what the junk that the home improvement stores sells.

Plus DO NOT forget all the extra stuff (air filters, oil, etc...) you run that generator for a while and it's gonna need that up-keep to keep it going. In an emergency you are not going to have time or be able to get that up-keep stuff. best to have it on had as well.

 

[melensdad]

Thats what I am looking for , A tri fuel genny with a transfer swith and battery bank , Thanks for all the replies

Melendad did you install yourself or did someone do for you

No, I had mine installed. Mainly because of several key reasons. First, I wanted a real transfer switch and did not want to run the entire house. I don't power some of the less critical circuits and that leaves me more power available for things like the refrigerators (2), the deep freezer (1), the well pump, furnace, microwave (big power draw!!!), and many convenience areas in the house like the whole master bedroom suite including TV, satellite, DVD, internet, phones, plus daughter's bedroom, living room, kitchen but not the formal dining room, front porch lights, pool, hot tub, outbuildings, etc etc etc.

Setting up selected circuits prevents many of the problems associated with over-draw from the generator which can 1) destroy appliances and 2) destroy the generator. (as described by others in this thread)

I also wanted to make sure that no linemen doing repairs were shocked/electrocuted by backfeeding into the utility power. (as described by others in this thread)

Also, having the transfer switch allows me to leave on a light for circuits that are utility powered, so when that/those lights come back on I know that the utility has restored power.

BTW, I don't have a battery bank and have no desire to ever have one. They are very expensive and also require that you install an expensive "inverter" to convert the 12 or 24 volt power back into 120v.

When the power goes out I simply flip the transfer switch, flip the N.G. valve that feeds the generator, and turn the 'start' key to fire up the power again. That generator stays on as long as someone is home and the power is out. No need to ever turn it off . . . with the exception of a daily 'oil' check to make sure the oil is not low and to add oil as necessary.

Sure, it costs a bit more to run the generator to make electricity than it costs to buy it from the utility . . . but it rarely gets used 10 days a year. For the very minor cost of burning natural gas I don't have to worry about food thawing, I don't have to worry about pipes bursting, I don't have to worry about being without heat. In the summer if the power is out I can't run my AC, but I still have the ceiling fans for cooling.

The battery bank ONLY makes sense if you ALSO have a wind generator or photovoltaic solar cells to keep the batteries charged. At that point you might as well spend the $50,000 that it would cost to simply go "off grid" and completely power your house with wind & solar. But the cost of a battery bank and an inverter are a big cost, far bigger than the $1500 to $2000 that a tri-fuel generator + transfer switch will cost. Installation of the inverter is another cost above and beyond the cost to consider as well.

 

[yotewacker]

I have a 20kw Generac at my place. Steve Matus is the guy I call for factory assistance. He lives in Greenfield area. If you PM me I can give you his number.

 

[irishhunter]

Yotewacker I need a few more post to be able to PM. I would appreciate his contact info..

You make a good point about the batteries. I mainly need it for the same reasons you stated. I also have a one and three year old at home

 

[pinshooter45]

Also, if you didn't shut off the main breaker and the power came back on you could cause major damage to the generator... I'm not sure, but I think this may be an explosion hazard.

It would also be difficult to know when the main power did come back on.

Well I always shut off the main breaker, becuse I don't want to feed the rest of the neiborhood, or kill a lineman! And it's easy to find out when the power is back on, one of my neigbors tells me or when the street light across from me comes back on. I don't run mine while I'm gone. Because if you don't open the fridge it'll stay cold for 8 hours or more...at least mine does. Plus I connect the cord to the outlet first then to the generator, that way I don't have an electrifying experience!

 

[bigus_D]

Well I always shut off the main breaker, becuse I don't want to feed the rest of the neiborhood, or kill a lineman! And it's easy to find out when the power is back on, one of my neigbors tells me or when the street light across from me comes back on. I don't run mine while I'm gone. Because if you don't open the fridge it'll stay cold for 8 hours or more...at least mine does. Plus I connect the cord to the outlet first then to the generator, that way I don't have an electrifying experience!

I think you have a fine setup (though perhaps not per the codes... dunno).

Anyhow, if it works it works, right?

If the power goes out and I'm not home, I want my "critical" circuits to stay on. Primarily this would include my sump pumps, furnace, fridge and freezer. If I'm on vacation I want all of that to stay on pretty much no matter what. Also, I'm on well water, so even when I'm home I want that to run no matter what.

Also, I've got my wife and baby at home. I don't want her to have to (and she probably wouldn't) mess with the main circuit panel and/or manually start a generator. For me, the extra cost for the 14kW generator and auto transfer switch was worth it. The cost is significant, however.

 

[IndyBeerman]

Also, if you didn't shut off the main breaker and the power came back on you could cause major damage to the generator... I'm not sure, but I think this may be an explosion hazard.

It would also be difficult to know when the main power did come back on.

If anyone is a Duke Energy customer you can get their whole house surge suppressor attached directly to your electric meter. As a precaution to let you know that it is working correctly there is a red light that is on the side of the meter that is active when there is power and the suppressor is working correctly.

All I have to do is look outside my kitchen window and see it is lit up and I know there is power incoming from the grid.

So I know if I have my generator running when I can power down the generator and flip the main back on.

 

[BNM]

If you live in Mooresville you probably have SCI REMC. They are offering a discount on Generac whole house natural gas generators installed. They were talking about them at the annual members meeting. They quoted me an installed price of $3300.
South Central Indiana REMC

 

[IndyBeerman]

If you live in Mooresville you probably have SCI REMC. They are offering a discount on Generac whole house natural gas generators installed. They were talking about them at the annual members meeting. They quoted me an installed price of $3300.
South Central Indiana REMC

Not so fast young Padawan!

Inside Mooresville and close proximity, it is IPL. Outside of that it is SCI-REMC.

 

[hornadylnl]

I put in a power base 5' wide. In the center is a 400 amp meter base with a 400 amp transfer switch built into it. On the top right, I put in an outdoor light bulb fixture with a red bulb and it's switched. When I transfer it to generator, I'll flip the switch for the bulb. It's hooked into the grid side of the transfer. When it turns on, I'll know the power is back on.

Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do for a generator. It's going to have to be diesel as I don't want a gas tank. I'm going to have a diesel tank for my tractor anyway. I think for the short term, I'm going to go with a pto generator. I also plan on getting a small diesel generator and transfer to run just the heat pump on my geo. That way I can run the heat without burning so much fuel and then use the bigger generator just a few hours a day.