1-877-LAWN-CREWI used tapcon screws to fasten a pressure treated 2x4 to the blocks under the 4x6 timbers. The lighting was trenched out ahead of time and run in conduit under the center of each pillar. Then I would cut a small notch in the block with a diamond blade for the wire to run to the light. The light has a small plate made to fit between blocks etc. When running the low voltage landscape lighting wires though you have to run individual wires for each one and make sure each wire is the same size that runs back to the transformer. In other words the wire running from the transformer to the closest light needs to be as long as the cable running to the furthest light. If you don't do this the lights will be different brightness because they run off of DC power.
thanks guys. I found the page too and the questions but never saw the response. I'm hoping to do it for one or two sides and then use other seating for the rest.
If it goes well you can enjoy it at the INGO gathering I'll host
I would just use a T shaped bit of steel, at least twice as long as the 4x4s are tall. Countersink masonry screws through it into the second from the top course and then mortar the top course in. If you use an S/Z shape, that bottom shelf will hold water and promote rot and corrosion.
I should add I'm planning to dry stack the block and secure with construction adhesive. They will be capped wth a 27" square stone piece. I wonder if I'd need mortar to hold it all stable or if the 55lb blocks will be enough.
My concern then would be if the course on top of the plates holding the bench seats together could be hidden by your dry stack system. Mortarring around the edges, the fact that there's a plate of steel in there can be disguised. Dry stacked, not so much, unless you're gonna chisel out the space the plates take up.
I'd think vertical bolts holding the steel plate in place would be even more important if there's no mortar and just construction adhesive.
{Disclaimer: IMO, when going for a 'massive' look, the concept of 'overbuilding' is used.}
Doc, JMO but I'd suggest mortaring or otherwise fixing the blocks together.
Keep in mind we do get tremors in this region from time to time (Madrid Fault Zone), as well as the natural movements of the earth.
Also keep in mind that, presuming 55 lb. blocks are also being used in the original image, each end of the bench weighs in somewhere around 1400# + the weight of the supported bench on each end. Factor in folks sitting / laying on the bench, etc. and figure a weight of something like 2000# - #2500 at each of the three piers.
That means settling also needs to be addressed and a very stable base should be used underneath those piers.
As noted, I'd 'overbuild' it, but that's a personal thing. For the piers, probably 4" or so of gravel underneath a 4" x 3' - 4' reinforced concrete pad on top of the gravel. Build the piers on top of those. The gravel in the photo (for me) would only be a couple inches deep, and really just decorative. I'd also edge it where the gravel butts up to the ground, so it'd be less likely to scatter into the surrounding yard, 'cause I swear my doggone lawnmower would find ONE pebble in a 40 hectare field, and shoot it right at my leg. My lawnmower hates me, I just know it!
OutdoorDad has a great idea with using a plate that bolts underneath the bench rails, and slides between the top 2 courses, then cemented in place (I'd probably bolt them down to the blocks first, then cement in, but that's me).
Now ya have something that not only looks 'heavy and massive', it is heavy and massive. Which means stable and less prone to shifting.
On the other hand, I'm the type that'd pour a 6" reinforced slab under the whole shebang, and it'd only look like it was just sitting on dirt.
Awesome!!! You are installing a sump pump in the middle of it all! My son helped me do the same in our crawlspace recently!
It will be nice and dry around the benches! Good thinking!