Dillon XL650 -- first reloading experience

[BE Mike]

Great review. I started with the most basic reloader, a Lee reloader. I worked my way up to a single-stage press, then a Dillon 450. I upgraded the Dillon 450 to a 550B and last added a Dillon 650 to the bench. It is interesting to get a newbie's viewpoint about going from zero to 650!

 

[N8RV]

Great job on the review!!
I started on a Square Deal B. And havent looked back. And now have 2 650's a rock chucker and a rcbs JR3 that is now dedicated to sizing bullets and is gear driven..
I got my buddy started with a 650 too. With reading and good advice hes up and running.
And dont be afraid to call Dillon if you have any issues!! They are awesome

I have 1 Question for you. Where the hell is your case feeder?

Thanks. It's a work in progress.

I don't know about anyone else, but when I tried calling Dillon to check on my order, I either got a recording that put me on hold or a busy signal. When I finally got through to someone, she told me rather nonchalantly that when there are 30 calls on hold, the line just rings busy! I'm guessing that they will remain swamped until the panic ends.

Now, for your question -- where is my case feeder? Funny you should ask ...

My thought process went like this:

1) When I delve into new hobbies, I ALWAYS buy the wrong stuff and have to buy different stuff once I figure out what I'm doing.

2) Money is tight right now, so why not just get the basics and add what I want/need at a later date?

3) Since I'm new to reloading, I shouldn't be in a hurry anyway. Take the time to hand-load the cases into the feed tube.

Well, I have to say that sometimes my thought processes break down. This is one of those times. It's pretty darned frustrating to get into a rhythm feeding bullets onto cases and pulling the lever, hearing the >clunk!< of pretty, shiny rounds dropping into the pan ... only to have to stop to load more cases! Grrrr ...

So, I'm ordering one today. The only debate is whether I order a Dillon or get an aftermarket knock-off on eBay to save money. I haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning toward spending the extra for the Dillon.

I'll update as necessary.

 

[rvb]

A couple of hiccups to note: Using the pickup tube to pick up primers was no big deal. Transferring them to the primer tube seemed to cause me grief. More than once I managed to spill them all over,

Not sure how this could be difficult. You had the cotter pin in the pick-up tube, right? Hold it over the fill tube againt the funnel, then pull the cotter, and they all flow into the fill tube.

Another hiccup I had was the first time I added gunpowder. I don't know what it's set up for from the factory, but is sure wasn't 9mm! The first time a case rotated under the powder die, it was filled -- and then some. I had gunpowder all over the plate.

If you have no idea where the powder measure is set, hold your pan from your scale or something similar under it and cycle the measure by hand. Then you can weigh it and see if you're even close.

When I ordered my press, I intentionally omitted the automatic case feeder....have to stop every 20 pulls to reload the case feed tube.

I'm not super familiar w/ the 650 (I use a 550), but cant you remove the tube and feed it manually like you would a 550? Seems easier than filling the tube...

The slowest part of the process for me is placing the bullet. Those stupid, slippery, little, 115gr bullets

wait till you start .223!

I spent several hours the first day reloading about 450 rounds of 9mm. ... Having cranked out about a thousand cartridges now,

never load hundreds/thousands before getting to the range with a couple dozen to test first. If they weren't feeding well, or over/under charged or printing like a shotgun, you'd be killing yourself right now pulling hundreds of bullets.

Despite the load data I used, I think my loads are hotter than the others,

I'm of the opinion that if you are reloading, you HAVE to have a chrono. Going by "feel" or sound is so subjective. Different powders have different burn rates and what "feels" hotter may or may not be. Loads that "feel" light could be dangerously close to over-pressure. You also have no idea how consistent your ammo is performing w/o determining a std. deviation for velocity.

Start low and work up to your anticipated load. Look for anything unusual in your chrono data (eg does velocity stop increasing despite more powder? does std dev increase past a certain load, do velocities correlate to what the book or other users says to expect?).

-rvb

 

[rvb]

... and honest enough to admit that a single-stage would have probably been a better way to get started.

You have an interesting way of reading what I posted. You may be right, that I should have started with a single-stage, but I didn't say or mean to imply that. The whole point of my post was to show that a novice CAN start with a progressive press and do OK.

If a person is reasonably mechanically inclined, can follow basic instruction, and is detail and process oriented, there is NOTHING wrong with starting with a progressive press. I started w/ a 550 and had no difficulties getting started. Had I started w/ a single stage I don't think I would have bothered reloading. The volume I shoot it just wouldnt be worth it. Even loading only 9mm (and loading 147s vs factory 115s), at the time I was shooting enough the press (incl scale, tumbler, etc) paid for itself it 12-15 months.

I think in some ways a progressive can be safer. Once it is set up, there is no messing with loading blocks and keeping track of what rounds you have already put powder in, no re-setting dies for each batch, etc. The press takes care of all that for you. You feed it components, rounds plop out.

Some "rules" I have that I think increase the safety on a progressive.... 1) Look in EVERY case for powder. I think this is even better than mechanical means; you will get a good idea of what the right amount looks like* in the case. 2) never pull the handle unless immediately after looking in the case and placing the bullet. [look, place, pull]. This is especially important if you have to clear a primer jam or something (and even more important on the 550 which doesnt auto index). This will not hinder your loading rate.

* you cant tell how much powder is in there to the tenth, but you can ensure there are no squibs or double charges.

-rvb

 

[rvb]

Great Post! I have a Dillon 550 on order in 40 S&W. I have a Used Lee turrent that I just purchased as well. I am going to sonic clean and then polish after I load the bullets to assist in feeding. I have heard from both side on polishing live rounds. I am removing the primers before I sonic clean and to polish before reloading leaves media in the primer hole. Not that I have to ask but what opinions do others have to waht I'm wanting to do.

You're WAY over complicating things for .40...

For pistol, clean the brass, load, and shoot.

To decap, then tumble, then load as you want to do, you'll be doubling your workload on your 550 and will probably want another toolhead just to decap.

If you want to lube the brass (I do), use Hornaday One-Shot. It does not need to be cleaned off the finished rounds like a lanolin lube (like Dillon's; save that for rifle brass).

If a final polish is making a difference in the round feeding, then you have other problems that is bandaiding.

My process on my 550 for pistol:
Clean brass (w/ spent primers still in the case). Lube w/ One Shot. Load. Shoot. Probably 150k rounds done this way over the last 8-9 years.

-rvb

 

[rvb]

The only debate is whether I order a Dillon or get an aftermarket knock-off on eBay to save money. I haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning toward spending the extra for the Dillon.

There should be no debate.

-rvb

 

[N8RV]

Not sure how this could be difficult. You had the cotter pin in the pick-up tube, right? Hold it over the fill tube againt the funnel, then pull the cotter, and they all flow into the fill tube.

Aha! Cotter pins. That's one thing that I didn't understand in the instructions. The picture didn't make much sense to me, so I ended up filling the tube and very quickly up-ending the pickup tube into the primer tube.

Is there a hole in the end for the cotter pin that I missed? I'll have to check when I get home. Thanks for the help. That would solve one of my biggest problems (other than the case feeder issue.)

I appreciate your advice, Ryan. Thanks!

 

[mongo404]

Thanks. It's a work in progress.

I don't know about anyone else, but when I tried calling Dillon to check on my order, I either got a recording that put me on hold or a busy signal. When I finally got through to someone, she told me rather nonchalantly that when there are 30 calls on hold, the line just rings busy! I'm guessing that they will remain swamped until the panic ends.

Now, for your question -- where is my case feeder? Funny you should ask ...

My thought process went like this:

1) When I delve into new hobbies, I ALWAYS buy the wrong stuff and have to buy different stuff once I figure out what I'm doing.

2) Money is tight right now, so why not just get the basics and add what I want/need at a later date?

3) Since I'm new to reloading, I shouldn't be in a hurry anyway. Take the time to hand-load the cases into the feed tube.

Well, I have to say that sometimes my thought processes break down. This is one of those times. It's pretty darned frustrating to get into a rhythm feeding bullets onto cases and pulling the lever, hearing the >clunk!< of pretty, shiny rounds dropping into the pan ... only to have to stop to load more cases! Grrrr ...

So, I'm ordering one today. The only debate is whether I order a Dillon or get an aftermarket knock-off on eBay to save money. I haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning toward spending the extra for the Dillon.

I'll update as necessary.

I will second RVB's answer There should be NO debate. I would almost bet the knock offs dont have the no BS War. Dillon has proven themselves to me over and over with coustomer service!!!

 

[rvb]

Aha! Cotter pins. That's one thing that I didn't understand in the instructions. The picture didn't make much sense to me, so I ended up filling the tube and very quickly up-ending the pickup tube into the primer tube.

Is there a hole in the end for the cotter pin that I missed? I'll have to check when I get home. Thanks for the help. That would solve one of my biggest problems (other than the case feeder issue.)

I appreciate your advice, Ryan. Thanks!

Yes, you should have a cotter pin included with each of your pick-up tubes. The primer filling process is shown on page 31 of your press' manual (soft copy here: http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Dillon-XL650-Manual-May-2007.pdf)

Make sure the
retaining clip FIG 147 is always in place
before using either tube.
...
7.When the primer pickup tube is full,
pivot the black switch lever away from
the primer magazine shield. Rotate the
tube upside down over the primer
magazine shield and remove the
retaining clip FIG 152. After filling the
primer magazine return the switch
lever to its normal position.​

this random internet picture shows some other brand of pick-up tube, but the concept is the same:​

-rvb​

 

[N8RV]

Yes, you should have a cotter pin included with each of your pick-up tubes. The primer filling process is shown on page 31 of your press' manual (soft copy here: http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Dillon-XL650-Manual-May-2007.pdf)

this random internet picture shows some other brand of pick-up tube, but the concept is the same:​

-rvb​

Thanks a LOT, Ryan! That makes sense. I never saw the holes in the pickup tube, and somehow got the idea that the pin snapped over the fitting on the end, which made no sense at all.

Got it now. No more jumbled primers!