Cycling issue with my AR

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  • rvb

    Grandmaster
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    Jan 14, 2009
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    Well without the OP giving us any more info, we could guess until we turn blue..........

    still seems like all you can do. unknown ammo, unknown barrel, etc. unless I missed it we don't even know if it's a std pinned A-frame FS or a low-pro gas block.

    asside from checking alignment as you mentioned, unknown barrel could just have a small gas port. going to a carbine buffer vs H1 may help as well as going to hotter ammo.

    make sure the bolt/carrier is WELL lubed.

    have different mags been tried? what kind of mags? something quality like a pmag or good quality usgi, or random gun show mag?

    -rvb
     

    JollyMon

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    Sep 27, 2012
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    Now, another thing to note, I did have issues with the first bolt carrier group that I bought. It was an AR Stoner carrier. It would not fit over the gas tube. The key on the carrier appeared to be out of alignment. I returned it and got another and it fits on better. So maybe it is an issue with the BCG. I will check that as suggested.

    I wonder if the gas tube got bent. Not sure how you tested the original Stoner BCG, but I can imagine releasing the bolt with one that was no aligned could cause some damage to the tube. But then again, I cant see how one would be able attach the upper and lower without the BCG being fulling seated.
     

    copo

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    Jan 20, 2013
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    nwi
    check gas rings, make sure the openings are not lined up. as this will allow gas by it.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Feb 22, 2009
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    Carthage IN
    The gas block was pinned because that's how they keep the gas block on. You shouldn't have had ANY problem finding a barrel nut that would work, you just need to drive the pins out and remove the gas block. I am going to vote for ammo, or undergassed. What length gas system vs. what buffer/spring/tube are you running?

    Upon rereading your post it appears you said the flashhider was pinned not the gas block... I recommend cutting it off and going with a two piece that you can be sure is lined up and can be used with ANY barrel nut.
     

    jeager361

    Plinker
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    Jan 2, 2013
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    Fort Wayne
    still seems like all you can do. unknown ammo, unknown barrel, etc. unless I missed it we don't even know if it's a std pinned A-frame FS or a low-pro gas block.

    asside from checking alignment as you mentioned, unknown barrel could just have a small gas port. going to a carbine buffer vs H1 may help as well as going to hotter ammo.

    make sure the bolt/carrier is WELL lubed.

    have different mags been tried? what kind of mags? something quality like a pmag or good quality usgi, or random gun show mag?

    -rvb

    The ammo I was using was reloads that I picked up at a gun show here in Fort Wayne. So, I don't have any details on how they were loaded. It does have a low-pro gas block. I did make sure to lube up the BCG well before hand.

    I picked up the barrel a while ago at the Indy 1500, and of course I forget who the manufacturer is. I can't see the entire barrel to check for any markings either until I take the thing apart. Also, I used 4 different mags and had the same issue with all of them.

    I appreciate all of the info. I definitely have a host of ideas to try in order to resolve the problem.
     

    jeager361

    Plinker
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    Jan 2, 2013
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    Fort Wayne
    I wonder if the gas tube got bent. Not sure how you tested the original Stoner BCG, but I can imagine releasing the bolt with one that was no aligned could cause some damage to the tube. But then again, I cant see how one would be able attach the upper and lower without the BCG being fulling seated.

    Anything is possible. With the first BCG, it would not even drop all of the way into the upper. The bent key was contacting the gas tube and not letting it slide inside. So, it is possible that fiddling with it bent the gas tube but I tried not to force anything. The new BCG that I have slides in much better. Still something else that I am going to take a look at.
     

    philbert001

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    Mar 4, 2012
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    Allen County
    The ammo I was using was reloads that I picked up at a gun show here in Fort Wayne. So, I don't have any details on how they were loaded.

    DING DING DING! We have a winner! Don't shoot reloads, unless you're sure of the source! Go buy some Winchester white box or something, and try again!
     

    magic man

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    Mar 7, 2010
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    NWI
    The ammo I was using was reloads that I picked up at a gun show here in Fort Wayne. So, I don't have any details on how they were loaded. It does have a low-pro gas block. I did make sure to lube up the BCG well before hand.

    I picked up the barrel a while ago at the Indy 1500, and of course I forget who the manufacturer is. I can't see the entire barrel to check for any markings either until I take the thing apart. Also, I used 4 different mags and had the same issue with all of them.

    I appreciate all of the info. I definitely have a host of ideas to try in order to resolve the problem.

    Try some factory ammo before you start tearing apart the gun. If that is the only ammo you have tried they could have been lighter loads that would not cycle the gun completely.
     

    remauto1187

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    Aug 25, 2012
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    Stepping Stone
    Jus think what would have happened if the reloads hand been charged with the wrong powder or wrong bullet/powder charge........ Another youtube..MY AR15 blew up in my face and I dont know what went wrong! :rolleyes:
     

    Trigger Time

    Air guitar master
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    204   3   0
    Aug 26, 2011
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    SOUTH of Zombie city
    I've also been watching as this thread has advanced. I agree with the above! Go try some factory ammo. Do people do any kind of REAL research before they just dive into putting a gun together? If your new to guns don't try to be a gunsmith! Sorry there's my grumpy advice.
     

    Sainte

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    Jan 14, 2013
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    Reloaded ammo........now he tells us.........face palm............

    before you shoot again, please make sure your barrel is clear and there is nothing jammed in it! Other than that, listen to the advice above and most of all, enjoy your rifle!

    i can't wait to get back home to mine!
     

    jeager361

    Plinker
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    Jan 2, 2013
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    Fort Wayne
    I've also been watching as this thread has advanced. I agree with the above! Go try some factory ammo. Do people do any kind of REAL research before they just dive into putting a gun together? If your new to guns don't try to be a gunsmith! Sorry there's my grumpy advice.

    Thanks for the helpful post. I never said I was new to guns. I said I am not a lifelong gun owner. I think you are making an assumption about how much research I put into this project. It has taken me about 2 years to complete the project mainly because I wanted to take it slow and be careful. I did the work where I felt comfortable and had a professional help with the barrel/gas tube assembly because I understand where my limitations are.

    Now, if it is the ammo that is the issue, then that is on me. The reloads I bought were from a reputable company that I have purchased from before and shot without issue. It wasn't from some guy that just set up a table to sell a few rounds. Now, that being said, it sounds like it was still not a smart idea and is not something I plan on doing again.

    I would appreciate it if you could point me to the criteria that I need to be aware of in order to make sure I comply with your standards. I wouldn't want to accidentally become a gunsmith afer all.
     

    rvb

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    We don't yet know it was the ammo... but if an otherwise working gun isn't running, the vast majority of the time the culprit is mags or ammo. The problem with "gunshow reloads" as your trial ammo is it just became a huge variable. If your gun is 5.56, get some m193 or m855. If it's .223 get some quality stuff like Hornady TAP (not PMC or wolf or something else known to be weak; stuff that doesn't always work even w/ factory rifles). If it doesn't run w/ that we can start looking elsewhere.

    I'm glad to hear you put quite a bit of time into researching your build, but frankly if you can't tell us the make/model of the barrel, what buffer you are using, etc, then it sounds like the rifle is an unknown grab-bag collection of parts. W/o this knowledge, it's VERY hard for us to help you over the internet. Assumptions get made and key points overlooked.

    Even though people don't always think it's related, the first questions I always ask are "what ammo?", "what mags?", and "was it well lubed?" After that it's "did it work before?" and if so "what changed?" If that's all good or in this case it's a new build that never worked, then it's best to start looking for spare parts (other guns you or a friend owns) to start swapping parts to issolate the trouble spot (ie does it work w/ a different buffer, different lower, different BCG, etc). This is the reason computer tech support always starts w/ "Is it plugged in?" because it's easy to start talking gas block shoulder spacing when the problem may be much simpler. Short stroking is a gas problem, but it's easy to want to solve a technical problem vs looking to the source of the gas (ammo).

    If it doesn't work w/ some known good ammo, get back w/ us. A pinned flash hider makes re-aligning the gas block more difficult since you can't take it off to take measurements... There's still lots of things it could be in addition to that...

    -rvb
     
    Last edited:

    Sainte

    Shooter
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    Jan 14, 2013
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    We don't yet know it was the ammo... but if an otherwise working gun isn't running, the vast majority of the time the culprit is mags or ammo. The problem with "gunshow reloads" as your trial ammo is it just became a huge variable. If your gun is 5.56, get some m193 or m855. If it's .223 get some quality stuff like Hornady TAP (not PMC or wolf or something else known to be weak; stuff that doesn't always work even w/ factory rifles). If it doesn't run w/ that we can start looking elsewhere.

    I'm glad to hear you put quite a bit of time into researching your build, but frankly if you can't tell us the make/model of the barrel, what buffer you are using, etc, then it sounds like the rifle is an unknown grab-bag collection of parts. W/o this knowledge, it's VERY hard for us to help you over the internet. Assumptions get made and key points overlooked.

    Even though people don't always think it's related, the first questions I always ask are "what ammo?", "what mags?", and "was it well lubed?" After that it's "did it work before?" and if so "what changed?" If that's all good or in this case it's a new build that never worked, then it's best to start looking for spare parts (other guns you or a friend owns) to start swapping parts to issolate the trouble spot (ie does it work w/ a different buffer, different lower, different BCG, etc). This is the reason computer tech support always starts w/ "Is it plugged in?" because it's easy to start talking gas block shoulder spacing when the problem may be much simpler. Short stroking is a gas problem, but it's easy to want to solve a technical problem vs looking to the source of the gas (ammo).

    If it doesn't work w/ some known good ammo, get back w/ us. A pinned flash hider makes re-aligning the gas block more difficult since you can't take it off to take measurements... There's still lots of things it could be in addition to that...

    -rvb


    +1 very nice explanation!
     

    jeager361

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 2, 2013
    109
    16
    Fort Wayne
    We don't yet know it was the ammo... but if an otherwise working gun isn't running, the vast majority of the time the culprit is mags or ammo. The problem with "gunshow reloads" as your trial ammo is it just became a huge variable. If your gun is 5.56, get some m193 or m855. If it's .223 get some quality stuff like Hornady TAP (not PMC or wolf or something else known to be weak; stuff that doesn't always work even w/ factory rifles). If it doesn't run w/ that we can start looking elsewhere.

    I'm glad to hear you put quite a bit of time into researching your build, but frankly if you can't tell us the make/model of the barrel, what buffer you are using, etc, then it sounds like the rifle is an unknown grab-bag collection of parts. W/o this knowledge, it's VERY hard for us to help you over the internet. Assumptions get made and key points overlooked.

    Even though people don't always think it's related, the first questions I always ask are "what ammo?", "what mags?", and "was it well lubed?" After that it's "did it work before?" and if so "what changed?" If that's all good or in this case it's a new build that never worked, then it's best to start looking for spare parts (other guns you or a friend owns) to start swapping parts to issolate the trouble spot (ie does it work w/ a different buffer, different lower, different BCG, etc). This is the reason computer tech support always starts w/ "Is it plugged in?" because it's easy to start talking gas block shoulder spacing when the problem may be much simpler. Short stroking is a gas problem, but it's easy to want to solve a technical problem vs looking to the source of the gas (ammo).

    If it doesn't work w/ some known good ammo, get back w/ us. A pinned flash hider makes re-aligning the gas block more difficult since you can't take it off to take measurements... There's still lots of things it could be in addition to that...

    -rvb

    All good points. I started this post at the spur of the moment thinking that I would get a couple of quick tips on directions to go to research the issue. I actually didn't think it would evolve into this type of conversation. So, for my part, I was lazy and didn't initially invest enough into my post to provide the right details. I should have been more thorough in the information that I presented. That is my mistake and I apologize if it has led to lot of wasted time. It was never my intention to do that. I take this stuff very serious and am always looking to learn something new, which is why I really enjoy this community.

    That being said, in a sense, you are correct that the rifle I built is a bit of a "grab-bag collection of parts". I pieced it together a little here and there over time as I decided on what I wanted to purchase. For what it is worth at this point:

    Lower: Spikes Tactical lower
    Lower Parts Kit: Palmetto State Armory MOE + LPK
    Buffer/tube: AR15 Mil-Spec 6 position receiver extension tube, AR15 M4 buffer, purchased from KB International. I just pulled it out and I was mistaken. It is not stamped H1. I know I was going back and forth on that when I bought it. I just couldn't remember what I ended up getting.
    Stock: Safariland SuperStoc from MidwayUSA
    Upper: I purchased a stripped upper receiver from Aeroprecision
    BCG: AR Stoner purchased from MidwayUSA
    Forward Assist/Dust Cover: I can't find my records, but I purchased these online as well
    Barrel: I bought this at the Indy 1500 from a dealer. It already had the flash hider staked on. As a result, the barrel nut and low-profile gas block were already on the barrel.
    Gas Tube: Mid length gas tube. I ordered this through a local gunsmith. Not sure of the name brand but it was what he recommended using. He installed the gas tube, barrel and front rail system to the upper for me.
    Front rail: Due to not being able to get the barrel nut off (easily anyway), I ordered this part through the gunsmith as well and had him install it. I don't recall the name brand specifically, but it is a 10 inch free floating rail

    Maybe to your point, this was just an unfair question to ask over the internet. As you indicated, it has turned into a more complex question then I had anticipated. I do appreciate all of the attempts. Troubleshooting issues like this is part of the reason I like to tackle projects.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
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    Jan 14, 2009
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    All good points. I started this post at the spur of the moment thinking that I would get a couple of quick tips on directions to go to research the issue. I actually didn't think it would evolve into this type of conversation. So, for my part, I was lazy and didn't initially invest enough into my post to provide the right details. I should have been more thorough in the information that I presented. That is my mistake and I apologize if it has led to lot of wasted time.
    ...
    Maybe to your point, this was just an unfair question to ask over the internet. As you indicated, it has turned into a more complex question then I had anticipated. I do appreciate all of the attempts. Troubleshooting issues like this is part of the reason I like to tackle projects.

    Not so much a concern that you wasted anyone's time (why else are we here?!). Rather that we may have or could have sent you on a wild goose chase tearing into your rifle looking for gremlins that aren't there.... new parts could have been suggested, money spent by you on new parts, etc.

    trying different ammo (esp trying good factory ammo) should always be one of the first steps in troubleshooting.

    -rvb
     
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