Concrete driveway

[Mij]

I have a 25x45 gravel driveway that I want to concrete. Prep will take minimal gravel addition on spots, tire resting spots. And I was hoping for at least 4 inches thick or 5 if my wallet can go that deep. Anyone have a guesstimate of the material minus any gravel I need and labor for a job of this size?

Existing drive has been gravel since 61.

Are you in West Central Indiana?

As always this is only my opinion, but the least expensive way to do a concrete job, is to do it properly the first and only time.

If not you will be paying to do it again. Doesn’t mater if it’s flat or standing up concrete. (Road, or Wall).

You may save a few bucks if you use 6 bag mix over 9 bag hi-early, but unless you have a few friends that know mud, and will do you a solid. Call a pro and do it right, you’ll be better off for it. Best of luck.

 

[Shadow01]

Are you in West Central Indiana?

As always this is only my opinion, but the least expensive way to do a concrete job, is to do it properly the first and only time.

If not you will be paying to do it again. Doesn’t mater if it’s flat or standing up concrete. (Road, or Wall).

You may save a few bucks if you use 6 bag mix over 9 bag hi-early, but unless you have a few friends that know mud, and will do you a solid. Call a pro and do it right, you’ll be better off for it. Best of luck.

Yes, Lafayette area. I plan on hiring it done. I was hoping to have a ballpark cost before I start hearing pricing from prospective contractors.

 

[42769vette]

Its not much harder than painting.

You are correct, but it's a lot more permanent than paint

 

[phylodog]

Don't know all of the specifics but was helping with a job over the weekend where 16 yards of fiber reinforced concrete was poured and the cost of the concrete was $208/yd. That was in Hamilton County so I expect it's a bit higher than other areas around the state.

 

[smokingman]

In your situation, why not cut out 6' sections and mix n pour your own..sections at a time over a period of weeks. You'd be surprised how fast and low cost it is to do a 3 2 1 mixture. Sand and media gravel is cheap and the Portland cement isnt alot to buy. Borrow or buy a cement mixer for less than $100.

My grandfather did 4ftx4ft sections at a time in his pole building(40x80ft). He had an old beat up mixer(little more than a heavy drum with a motor to spin it) and mixed his own. Took him awhile to do the whole thing(I was a teenager and helped on weekends to do a few pours) but it was 5inchs thick and made a world of difference cost wise. He had sand and gravel dumped out front and would get a few 80lb bags of portland cement every week. No idea what he actually ended up spending,but I am sure he saved loads of money.

 

[Brian Ski]

How big is their drive? A reasonable drive is easy to seal yourself with a couple 5 gallon buckets, rubber boots, and maybe $40 in squeegees and brushes.

Its not much harder than painting.

10 by 350 not sure how much buckets would cost. They are not ones to do it their selves.

BTW I have done it for others years ago.

 

[Brian Ski]

Yes, Lafayette area. I plan on hiring it done. I was hoping to have a ballpark cost before I start hearing pricing from prospective contractors.

Give one or 2 a call in your area. Most of the time they can give you a $ amount per square foot. When I had some stuff to do years ago pretty much everyone was spot on. Only difference was time. Some said months, some weeks, some no time.

 

[Mij]

Yes, Lafayette area. I plan on hiring it done. I was hoping to have a ballpark cost before I start hearing pricing from prospective contractors.

You may try calling Purdy or Brim, see if they may give you an approximate cost per sq. ft. That’s a big “may”.

 

[jagee]

I work for the largest concrete contractor in the state. We buy A LOT of concrete.

4000psi mix with fiber will be around $190 or better. Don't waste your money on wire reinforcement - it's never right, pay for micro fiber in the mix.

I recommend adding E5 internal cure admixture rather than spray curing on the surface. This is kind of pricey, but worth it.

Labor cost depends on if you hire guys to do it on the side after their day job, or if you hire a company.

 

[Mij]

^^^^^^^^^
Nailed it.

 

[jwamplerusa]

Get it with fiber. If you don't, in 10 years you will regret it.

 

[Brian Ski]

An FYI from me.... If you pour towards fall, the concrete will be more prone to salt damage. My concrete has been fine, Except at the road edge where we had a really cold winter a few years ago and the highway salted the crud out of the roads. Some pock marks there. By the next year no problems with the salt. But the first year lay off salt if you use it. I don't, except for what drips off vehicles.

 

[gassprint1]

My grandfather did 4ftx4ft sections at a time in his pole building(40x80ft). He had an old beat up mixer(little more than a heavy drum with a motor to spin it) and mixed his own. Took him awhile to do the whole thing(I was a teenager and helped on weekends to do a few pours) but it was 5inchs thick and made a world of difference cost wise. He had sand and gravel dumped out front and would get a few 80lb bags of portland cement every week. No idea what he actually ended up spending,but I am sure he saved loads of money.

I plan on doing the same. Once i get the new septic tank figured out, I'll start with the 14ft area where the work bench is.

 

[jagee]

An FYI from me.... If you pour towards fall, the concrete will be more prone to salt damage. My concrete has been fine, Except at the road edge where we had a really cold winter a few years ago and the highway salted the crud out of the roads. Some pock marks there. By the next year no problems with the salt. But the first year lay off salt if you use it. I don't, except for what drips off vehicles.

E5 integral admixture and topically apply E5 Protect to help seal the surface. Less chance for chloride attack on the new concrete.

 

[Shadow01]

An FYI from me.... If you pour towards fall, the concrete will be more prone to salt damage. My concrete has been fine, Except at the road edge where we had a really cold winter a few years ago and the highway salted the crud out of the roads. Some pock marks there. By the next year no problems with the salt. But the first year lay off salt if you use it. I don't, except for what drips off vehicles.

Luckily our town only uses sand on occasion. I have a better chance of getting salt on the drive from snowpack in the fender wells

 

[Somemedic]

Paging @Somemedic Can you shed any light on current concrete pricing per yard?

I just got it there and poured it. The wizards in the office got the checks.

I dont know but we were usually loaded with 10 yards and if I'm guessing that was between 2500-4500 a load depending on if was the DOT stuff or 4500psi or whatever the mix was. I do know that the earlier in the year when it might still freeze at night you were charged an additional fee for hot water to be on the truck and put into the mix.

 

[Mij]

Most concrete outfits will add antiplastisizers or calcium chloride for winter use. Usually 10% calcium.

Concrete hardening is a chemical reaction you can pour it under water, it will still harden.

Hot water may be an up charge, but it doesn’t do squat to the mix.

That’s why they put insulated blankets on it in the winter, it holds in the heat from the chemical reaction. All chemical reactions give off heat. JMO.

 

[jagee]

Hot water helps speed up the chemical reaction. Yes, cement hydration is exothermic, but there is a point where it will stop and the concrete will "go to sleep" - if that point is before the concrete reaches 500psi it's wasted. If that point is after, then there is a good chance the concrete will "wake up" and the chemical reaction will continue.

Winter charges are usually from Nov 1 to Apr 1. Water reducing admixtures (superplastisizers) allow you to pour it "wetter" without exceeding the water/cement ratio. Too much water, not enough cement = weak concrete.

Do NOT use calcium chloride if you have any form or rebar in the pour (I already mentioned taking out wire mesh, so you may not have any.) Non-calcium accelerators are an option, but they usually need an external energy source (sunlight, heat, etc) to "kick them in gear" - without that it can sometimes be a waste of money. Adding an extra bag of cement, or switching to Type III cement (when/where available) is sometimes more cost effective and actually works better.

 

[Brian Ski]

Do NOT use calcium chloride if you have any form or rebar in the pour

I never thought about that.... I usually like a spring or fall pour. Summer too hot. Also late fall can be trouble. Always keep getting leaves blowing in while you are working. But I am not a pro.

Maybe the willing ones can have a party at Shadows place!!

 

[jagee]

I never thought about that.... I usually like a spring or fall pour. Summer too hot. Also late fall can be trouble. Always keep getting leaves blowing in while you are working. But I am not a pro.

Maybe the willing ones can have a party at Shadows place!!

We pour every (work) day, all year round. As long as the plants aren't frozen and can produce concrete at the rate we want (usually 100cy/hr or so) we pour. Pump on!