casting your own bullets

[Northport_brian]

With the price of bullets going up, I have been thinking about casting my own.

How difficult is it?
Does it save $?
What is basic stuff you need to get going and about how much would this stuff cost?

 

[DHolder]

Looking for Leadeye, come in Leadeye...

 

[parson]

Not Leadeye, but I've been casting for a couple of years. Lead sources are getting harder to find, but you can save considerably.

I'd recommend spending some time at castboolits.gunloads.com you'll find a wealth of information there.

Personally, I enjoy taking something that's considered scrap (wheelweights, etc.) and making something out of them.

 

[samrothstein01]

I know that there are a lot of folks on here who do in fact cast their own and they are all very knowledgeable. I am sure many of them will chime in on my post and lead you down the correct path. For me personally, INGO member Leadeye is the resident expert. He has helped answer a lot of questions for me.

parson is absolutely correct, castboolits has a TON of information.

Getting started really isn't all that difficult. You need a furnace (preferably one with a bottom pour spout), a cavity mold (with handles) for your specific caliber and bullet type, and some lead. Very helpful tools include a casting thermometer, an ingot mold, and an old dutch oven for melting bulk.

Sometimes you can get kits that come with nearly everything you need. Also, depending on the caliber, use, and cavity mold you may get into lubing/resizing/gas checks. Lastly, there are some firearms or barrels that do not recommend using lead, such as Glock just for example's sake. Just a few things to be aware of.

 

[dak109]

Some one here a while back had a reloading class. As I recall they did a little demo on casting. Wouldn't it be great to do the same with the emphasis on casting? I wil look for the links when I get a chance. In the meantime is anybody interested in something like this? I would be depending on location.

Brainstorm Maybe a whole day thing we could cast a little, load alittle shoot a lot... I have heard good things about lovemywoods place but do not know him. Wish I did I live in the same county. If anybody knows of a place and people skilled enough and willing to do it get them on bard. I think it sounds like a good time waiting to happen.

 

[samrothstein01]

The class you speak of was a reloading / casting class put on by IndyGunWorks and Leadeye. Fantastic intro into both topics. I certainly cannot nor am I trying to volunteer their time, but they have both been extremely helpful to the INGO community and are both very knowledgeable. I am uncertain if they plan to do more of these classes or not, but if they do, jump on the opportunity!

 

[Leadeye]

Casting is really no more difficult than reloading and your investment in tools is not high starting out. The amount of money you will save depends a lot on what you shoot. Big caliber pistol bullets will show a dramatic savings while trying to cast for an AR-15 will be more complicated and save a lot less.(Personal note here, I don't even try to cast below .30 caliber.) Lee molds run about $20 new for a double cavity, a 10 pound production pot can be had for about $40-50 and a Lee sizer that works in your reloading press for another $20. Throw in some scrap lead and you are under the $100 mark to start. You can get more expensive equipment that will do more faster just like reloading. Cast Boolits is a great place for info on almost anything related to casting or shooting.

 

[pinshooter45]

Not Leadeye, but I've been casting for a couple of years. Lead sources are getting harder to find, but you can save considerably.

I'd recommend spending some time at castboolits.gunloads.com you'll find a wealth of information there.

Personally, I enjoy taking something that's considered scrap (wheelweights, etc.) and making something out of them.

I thought Wheel weight weren't good for Bullets. I had TC muzzel loader a few years ago and the manual warned not to use wheel weights, becuse they are a lead alloy. and don't end up the proper size after cooling. And this could just be a problem with Muzzys, or Lawyer speak.

 

[parson]

Muzzle loaders using round balls or bore size bullets do need to be soft in order to engrave rifling as it goes down the bore , so pure lead works better. However, if using sabots ,harder alloys, such as wheel weights will work fine.

Wheel weights are increasingly being made of non-lead metals also. Some of those, such as zinc, can contaminate lead, making it pretty much unusable for bullet casting.

There is a lot of info on cast boolits site to help identify different types of alloys.

 

[buzzard pickins]

For what it's worth, estate sales are a great placeto find used equiptment.
Due to heat some melters have rusted parts and people shy away thinking the unit is no good. Most makers have cheap replacement parts and with common sense be rewired.
Wolfe publishing has CASTING 101 dvd.Other wolfe mags, like Handloader have alot of cast info written by Duke venterino, castboolets is great.
The ANTIMINOY MAN.com has shared alot.
Lastly LYMANS Bullet casting manual is good starter, maybe you can find it at half price books......SAFTY FIRST.

 

[Northport_brian]

what advantages does the bottom pour spout give you on the furnace?

 

[Skip]

Casting is almost as fun a shooting and reloading! IMO!

Casting is awesome. I like to do it almost as well as any other aspect of our hobby. I cast mostly for handgun calibers even though some of them are run in lever action carbines. I have been trying to get near jacketed performance from lead bullets in that venue with mixed results. The Marlins don't particularly like them at normal size but my Puma in 45Colt seems to like them just fine.

Like Leadeye said, under $100 can get you started. Personally, I'm not a fan of the Lee 2 cavity molds. The 6 cavity are much better and are not that much more expensive. I have had less trouble with fill out with their flat meplat styles over the round nose ones. Maybe it's just me though.

The bottom pour pot eliminates the need for a dipper. You simply put the mould under the spout and lift a handle and the mould can be filled. Otherwise you need to dip metal out of the pot in a ladle and pour it in.

Best to you on your quest.

 

[Slow Hand]

what advantages does the bottom pour spout give you on the furnace?

I like a bottom pour pot because you don't have to mess with a ladle, and becasue the impurities float to the top of the pot, it's easy to scoop off and you don't have to worry about getting them in your bullets. Also easy to pout ingots with. Sometimes it gets clogged up and will drip, but Lee's pot has a screw slot in the stopper rod so you can twist it back and forth to clear any gunk out. I've been very happy with mine in several years of casting. Only wish it were bigger once I start filling up this 6-cavity moulds!

Doug K

 

[dsol]

With the price of bullets going up, I have been thinking about casting my own.

How difficult is it?
Does it save $?
What is basic stuff you need to get going and about how much would this stuff cost?

Too bad you aren't close to my area. I need to find someone around here to teach me the fine points. Or just to share, I bring lead and time to the caster and we split the boolits...

 

[Northport_brian]

Thanks for all the information.

What is the best lube to use and the best way to get it on the cast bullet? I see so many different ones on Midway site.

And are gas checks worth the effort to put on?

PS. I want to cast some bullets for 357Mag and 45 ACP.

 

[jtb]

Thanks for all the information.

What is the best lube to use and the best way to get it on the cast bullet? I see so many different ones on Midway site.

And are gas checks worth the effort to put on?

PS. I want to cast some bullets for 357Mag and 45 ACP.

You should never need gas checks for .45 ACP velocities. You MAY need GC for .357 mag heavier loads. Lube requirements will depend on how well the bullet fits your gun and the velocity/presure of the load. Generally Liquid allox will work at 1000 fps. and under. But you soon graduate to other beeswax based concoctions as you progress.

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is a great reference, costs less than a mold and has the most information in one place in print.

jim.

 

[Leadeye]

Gas checks are for higher pressure loads, I like to use them with heavy loads of powders like 296/H110 or rifle loads. Most pistol stuff does not require them. Sizers like the RCBS and Lyman do a better job of putting the checks on and crimping them tight than the Lee push through dies, and they must stay on for accuracy.

Bullet fit is most important for accuracy and reducing leading, always stay .001-.002 over your bore size, and measure it. Don't take the manufacturer's word for it as the size may vary a little.

Good Luck!

 

[Northport_brian]

What are the cost saving?

About what does it cost in material to make box of 500 148G for 38.

 

[wolfman]

What are the cost saving?

About what does it cost in material to make box of 500 148G for 38.

Hard to say because how much you pay for your lead will make a big difference.

My cost per 100 rounds of .45acp, is about $6 since I am getting my raw wheel weights pretty cheap. I figure about 10% to 15% loss during smelting due to the clips, giving me a lead cost somewhere around $.25/lb.