Bullet to rifle to scope

[The Drifter]

I don,t know how much help I can get here ,but lets give it a shoot . I have a Savage 10 Precision Carbine 20 inch Barrel 1 in 10 twist in 308 win . This rifle is married to a NiKon Monarch rifle scope with B D C reticle . Now here is the problem . In order for the rifle and scope to hit home at 200 yards out to 600 yards using the B D C reticle the bullet must have a muzzle velocity of about 2800 feet per sec. ,sighted in at 100 yards . I use accerate powers for all my reloading , the loading table says a 24 inch barrel with a 1 in 12 twist will at max load get me between 2,720 and 2800 F P S with a A-Max 168 grain bullet .That would be great , but with a 20 inch barrel and 1 in 10 twist how much velocity am I going to lose? I know this is a lot of hit and miss to get to the proper marriage of bullet, to rifle, to scope . So if anyone has this kind of set up and has figured it out PLEASE HELP . Or if you have any info that might speed up the process put in your 2 cents . I,m shooting out of the box ammo right now , once I figure this out I will be reloading my own . Thanks in advance for any help .

 

[chezuki]

Chronograph.

 

[ghostdncr]

And this is why I'll never own a BDC scope unless it's on a known military platform like the SVD or M21. In this case, I'd merely ditch the scope for one with a mil dot reticle and get on with my shooting.

 

[Broom_jm]

On average, you will lose about 25fps per inch of barrel. Without a chronograph, you won't know how much velocity you're getting with the factory ammo.

My son has a Model 10 FLP, 308, 20-inch barrel, 1:10 twist. His has a Burris Full-Field II scope with their drop-compensating aiming points. We load 155gr A-Max bullets to around 2750fps.

BDC-style scopes are mostly a sales gimmick. Your request for help with using one is a classic illustration of how some of these scopes are sold. You bought one thinking you could zero in at 100 yards and the scope would magically line up the additional "silly circles" with extended range targets. If and when this occurs, it is a fortunate coincidence, not ballistic science.

There is nothing wrong with these types of scopes, as long as the shooter understands their limitations going in. Your gun and bullet combination does not care about those extra aiming points. As a shooter, you have no other choice but to go out and SHOOT at longer ranges to determine where the load you're shooting impacts at various distances. This WILL NOT correlate 100% to the circles in the scope! That's fine, as long as you know that. You can quickly learn to adjust your hold to the gun/load...expecting the scope to adjust itself to a given load is simply unrealistic.

If you really want the ability to zero at 100 and then shoot to POA at extended ranges, you need a scope with adjustable turrets and/or mil-dot reticles. The Nikon BDC reticle, for all its commercial success, is not a target scope and the POA/POI "promises" it makes are extremely optimistic.

 

[IndyGunworks]

On average, you will lose about 25fps per inch of barrel. Without a chronograph, you won't know how much velocity you're getting with the factory ammo.

My son has a Model 10 FLP, 308, 20-inch barrel, 1:10 twist. His has a Burris Full-Field II scope with their drop-compensating aiming points. We load 155gr A-Max bullets to around 2750fps.

BDC-style scopes are mostly a sales gimmick. Your request for help with using one is a classic illustration of how some of these scopes are sold. You bought one thinking you could zero in at 100 yards and the scope would magically line up the additional "silly circles" with extended range targets. If and when this occurs, it is a fortunate coincidence, not ballistic science.

There is nothing wrong with these types of scopes, as long as the shooter understands their limitations going in. Your gun and bullet combination does not care about those extra aiming points. As a shooter, you have no other choice but to go out and SHOOT at longer ranges to determine where the load you're shooting impacts at various distances. This WILL NOT correlate 100% to the circles in the scope! That's fine, as long as you know that. You can quickly learn to adjust your hold to the gun/load...expecting the scope to adjust itself to a given load is simply unrealistic.

If you really want the ability to zero at 100 and then shoot to POA at extended ranges, you need a scope with adjustable turrets and/or mil-dot reticles. The Nikon BDC reticle, for all its commercial success, is not a target scope and the POA/POI "promises" it makes are extremely optimistic.

Your so much better with words than I am... My translation..... BDC reticles blow. drop it and get what you should have got in the first place.

although I have seen mildot reticle mentioned twice now. Just throwing it out there MOA reticle!!! I prefer moa reticles over mils any day of the week.

 

[42769vette]

On average, you will lose about 25fps per inch of barrel. Without a chronograph, you won't know how much velocity you're getting with the factory ammo.

My son has a Model 10 FLP, 308, 20-inch barrel, 1:10 twist. His has a Burris Full-Field II scope with their drop-compensating aiming points. We load 155gr A-Max bullets to around 2750fps.

BDC-style scopes are mostly a sales gimmick. Your request for help with using one is a classic illustration of how some of these scopes are sold. You bought one thinking you could zero in at 100 yards and the scope would magically line up the additional "silly circles" with extended range targets. If and when this occurs, it is a fortunate coincidence, not ballistic science.

There is nothing wrong with these types of scopes, as long as the shooter understands their limitations going in. Your gun and bullet combination does not care about those extra aiming points. As a shooter, you have no other choice but to go out and SHOOT at longer ranges to determine where the load you're shooting impacts at various distances. This WILL NOT correlate 100% to the circles in the scope! That's fine, as long as you know that. You can quickly learn to adjust your hold to the gun/load...expecting the scope to adjust itself to a given load is simply unrealistic.

If you really want the ability to zero at 100 and then shoot to POA at extended ranges, you need a scope with adjustable turrets and/or mil-dot reticles. The Nikon BDC reticle, for all its commercial success, is not a target scope and the POA/POI "promises" it makes are extremely optimistic.

Well done sir.

BDC's like that are exactly sales gimmicks. When you buy a BDC scope you should always look at the BDC's as known points of reference. You find out what the points of reference correlate to with your dope, not the other way around. Now for the kicker, most Nikon BDC scopes dont have enough internal travel to dial for long range, so you were sold a "long range" scope that is not capable of "long range"

 

[The Drifter]

Thanks ,this is what I kind of thought . I will live with my 500.00 dollar mistake , and work with it till I find my points of impact on the reticle . I,m only looking to get out to 600 yards ,so hopefully I can achieve that.

 

[Broom_jm]

It's not really a "mistake", and I apologize if I made it seem that way. You just have to work with the scope to figure out where those additional aiming points correlate to, at various distances.

It should certainly allow you to shoot out to 600 yards, particularly if you make the VERY wise choice of zeroing at 200 or 300 yards. (If you're going to shoot much at 600 yards, 200 or 300 is a better zero distance, IMO.)

 

[Pughead]

I don,t know how much help I can get here ,but lets give it a shoot . I have a Savage 10 Precision Carbine 20 inch Barrel 1 in 10 twist in 308 win . This rifle is married to a NiKon Monarch rifle scope with B D C reticle . Now here is the problem . In order for the rifle and scope to hit home at 200 yards out to 600 yards using the B D C reticle the bullet must have a muzzle velocity of about 2800 feet per sec. ,sighted in at 100 yards . I use accerate powers for all my reloading , the loading table says a 24 inch barrel with a 1 in 12 twist will at max load get me between 2,720 and 2800 F P S with a A-Max 168 grain bullet .That would be great , but with a 20 inch barrel and 1 in 10 twist how much velocity am I going to lose? I know this is a lot of hit and miss to get to the proper marriage of bullet, to rifle, to scope . So if anyone has this kind of set up and has figured it out PLEASE HELP . Or if you have any info that might speed up the process put in your 2 cents . I,m shooting out of the box ammo right now , once I figure this out I will be reloading my own . Thanks in advance for any help .

Go to Nikons Spoton website, you can enter your ballistic info and it will give you a more accurate "guess" of your bullet drop. You didn't make a mistake, if you put in accurate info it will treat you right.

 

[The Drifter]

Thanks Pughead that helps quite a bit . It still dose not take in account how long your barrel is or, if your loading your own . We all know your own loads if well managed will preform better then out of the box. All in all that,s a big help.

http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html#:4

 

[Pughead]

Thanks Pughead that helps quite a bit . It still dose not take in account how long your barrel is or, if your loading your own . We all know your own loads if well managed will preform better then out of the box. All in all that,s a big help.

http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html#:4

You can't put in your barrel length but velocity is the important part. And you can enter your handloads. Play with it for a while.

 

[42769vette]

Another option, (and this might be crazy) is to go shoot it, and see what happens in the real world.

 

[chezuki]

Another option, (and this might be crazy) is to go shoot it, and see what happens in the real world.

There you go again with your crazy ideas... That'll never work!!

 

[Pughead]

Another option, (and this might be crazy) is to go shoot it, and see what happens in the real world.

Also a very good option.

 

[Broom_jm]

When it all boils down...that's really the only option. Silly Circles!

 

[halfmileharry]

Another option, (and this might be crazy) is to go shoot it, and see what happens in the real world.

Excellent Idea. Enough reading. Get out and make some noise.