Best way to remove brake shoes

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  • Jaredjosh

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    I just realized due to that your OP isn't very clear that it may be the caliper bracket you are having trouble with. I believe the bolts for the bracket require a 17mm socket size to remove. And yes these also typically have Locktight on them. If that is the case they are usually very tight and the pipe in the breaker bar trick usually works if your without air tools. Once again good luck and careful not to bust your knuckles.

    God bless, Jaredjosh
     

    A_Brit_In_Indy

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    I think the OP is talking about the caliper frame bolts, this is how to do it
    1) Jack up the vehicle, place axle stands under the frame support, rock car body to make sure the car is safe and secure, remove road wheel.
    2) remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the frame (usually 12/13/14mm, did you see that I said mm and NOT Standard, so get the right tool)
    3) hang the caliper on the front strut mount so it's out of the way.
    4) turn the steering wheel so the caliper frame is easily exposed.
    5) Using the correct size socket 17mm and a breaker bar (1/2" drive preferred) seat the socket squarely on the bolt head and push down, they will be tight, if they don't want to move add some leverage to the breaker bar. Make sure you are level before you push down, when you push have your hand flat on the bar and not gripping the bar (this way if the bar slips you won't be bushing up your fingers and knuckles.
    6) Upon loosing use a ratchet and unscrew them the rest of the way
    7) You can loosen the rotor on the hub by giving it a smart, sharp tap with a hammer (wear eye protection)
    8) Remove rotor, clean the mounting surface of the hub.
    9) Buy GOOD rotors spend the most money you can afford on good pads and rotors, there are a lot of Chinese made rotors out there, so don't buy them (guess where they get the crappy steel from to make these?) The stopping distance between good brake pads and cheap brake pads is about 20 feet (think about that)
    10) Install frame and tighten down, (don't go crazy and snap the bolt) install pads, make sure all contact points are clean and rust free, add a little of the brake grease to the pad mounting points (not the friction material) clean caliper slides, install caliper.
    11) When everything is back together and before you put the wheel on PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, I'll say that again PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, just one more time PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, if you fail to do this and most people do, when you have it all together and you feel a great sense of achievement, as you drive off and come to brake, YOU HAVE NO BRAKES!!!!
    12) Check the brake fluid level, IF the fluid looks any darker than colorless change the brake fluid (pay for this to be done by a professional) Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years regardless of mileage.
    Email me if you have problems.
     

    Dirtebiker

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    Britt, very good advice, except .......why do you say change brake fluid every two years???? I've never heard that one! Of course, like you said, if it's discolored, it needs changed... And inspected! But if it looks good, you haven't lost any, haven't had to bleed them, no other problems... Brake fluid is good for years!
    Let me know if this is something new, do any manufacturers recommend changing fluid every two years?
     

    Jaredjosh

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    I agree, nice job on the instructions Britt

    Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture. Moisture in brake fluid will lower it's boiling temperature as well as accelerate corrosion of brake parts. Also brake fluid can become contaminated with copper. Copper contaminated brake fluid causes corrosion of brake parts. The best way to determine is a brake fluid change is necessary is to test the fluid with a test strip. I personally think changing your brake fluid every two years is a bit excessive unless of course it has failed the test strip test, but that is just my personal opinion and some may disagree.

    God bless, Jaredjosh
     
    Last edited:

    A_Brit_In_Indy

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    I agree, nice job on the instructions Britt

    Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture. Moisture in brake fluid will lower it's boiling temperature as well as accelerate corrosion of brake parts. Also brake fluid can become contaminated with copper. Copper contaminated brake fluid causes corrosion of brake parts. The best way to determine is a brake fluid change is necessary is to test the fluid with a test strip. I personally think changing your brake fluid every two years is a bit excessive unless of course it has failed the test strip test, but that is just my personal opinion and some may disagree.

    God bless, Jaredjosh

    Jaredjosh you are exactly right, brake fluid is hygroscopic, and the reason I change it every 2 years is that the moisture content is water, water as you know boils faster that brake fluid hence the beginnings of brake fade, I specialize in European cars that not only use a low viscosity brake fluid, but have been suggesting for years that you replace the fluid on a regular basis.
    The moisture content also corrodes brake components internally ABS modulators $3500 to replace vs $105 for a brake fluid flush.
    If your fluid is any darker than colorless I suggest you change it, oh and you can replace DOT 3 with DOT 4 fluid however you CANNOT replace DOT 3 or 4 with DOT 5 which is silicon based.
    Email me if you have questions
    Thomas (Service Manager @ Autobahn Service Center)
     

    LEaSH

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    Since this thread was started two days ago, I'd wager that OP effed up his girlfriend's car and is now up ****'s creek and wont play mechanic for awhile.

    Back in the day, ... nevermind.... sigh...
     

    Fenway

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    Jan 11, 2008
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    [/thread]

    I think the OP is talking about the caliper frame bolts, this is how to do it
    1) Jack up the vehicle, place axle stands under the frame support, rock car body to make sure the car is safe and secure, remove road wheel.
    2) remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the frame (usually 12/13/14mm, did you see that I said mm and NOT Standard, so get the right tool)
    3) hang the caliper on the front strut mount so it's out of the way.
    4) turn the steering wheel so the caliper frame is easily exposed.
    5) Using the correct size socket 17mm and a breaker bar (1/2" drive preferred) seat the socket squarely on the bolt head and push down, they will be tight, if they don't want to move add some leverage to the breaker bar. Make sure you are level before you push down, when you push have your hand flat on the bar and not gripping the bar (this way if the bar slips you won't be bushing up your fingers and knuckles.
    6) Upon loosing use a ratchet and unscrew them the rest of the way
    7) You can loosen the rotor on the hub by giving it a smart, sharp tap with a hammer (wear eye protection)
    8) Remove rotor, clean the mounting surface of the hub.
    9) Buy GOOD rotors spend the most money you can afford on good pads and rotors, there are a lot of Chinese made rotors out there, so don't buy them (guess where they get the crappy steel from to make these?) The stopping distance between good brake pads and cheap brake pads is about 20 feet (think about that)
    10) Install frame and tighten down, (don't go crazy and snap the bolt) install pads, make sure all contact points are clean and rust free, add a little of the brake grease to the pad mounting points (not the friction material) clean caliper slides, install caliper.
    11) When everything is back together and before you put the wheel on PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, I'll say that again PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, just one more time PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, if you fail to do this and most people do, when you have it all together and you feel a great sense of achievement, as you drive off and come to brake, YOU HAVE NO BRAKES!!!!
    12) Check the brake fluid level, IF the fluid looks any darker than colorless change the brake fluid (pay for this to be done by a professional) Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years regardless of mileage.
    Email me if you have problems.
     

    GLOCKMAN23C

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    If your fluid is any darker than colorless I suggest you change it, oh and you can replace DOT 3 with DOT 4 fluid however you CANNOT replace DOT 3 or 4 with DOT 5 which is silicon based.
    Email me if you have questions
    Thomas (Service Manager @ Autobahn Service Center)

    You can replace DOT 3 or 4 with DOT 5.1 too (DOT 5.1 is non-silicone and ABS friendly) DO NOT CONFUSE DOT 5 WITH DOT 5.1. I too recommend changing the fluid on regular intervals. This is a vital part of a car, that too often is neglected.
     

    PistolBob

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    On my Saturn Ion, I was able to change the disc pads, and rotors in less than 40 minutes. Including the time it took to jack the car up and pull off the tires. Very easy to work on, unlike the Honda.

    Too bad GM decided to stop making them. It's the last GM car I will ever own.
     

    ThrottleJockey

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    On my Saturn Ion, I was able to change the disc pads, and rotors in less than 40 minutes. Including the time it took to jack the car up and pull off the tires. Very easy to work on, unlike the Honda.

    Too bad GM decided to stop making them. It's the last GM car I will ever own.
    They were even better before GM took over the production....Leave it to GM to screw up a good thing, guess they couldn't handle the competition.
     

    spartan933

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    Aug 21, 2008
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    Porter County
    I just realized due to that your OP isn't very clear that it may be the caliper bracket you are having trouble with. I believe the bolts for the bracket require a 17mm socket size to remove. And yes these also typically have Locktight on them. If that is the case they are usually very tight and the pipe in the breaker bar trick usually works if your without air tools. Once again good luck and careful not to bust your knuckles.

    God bless, Jaredjosh

    Yep, that's what I mean. The caliper bracket. Tried the 17mm socket to no avail. This was earlier in the week. Going to give it another try today. WIll let you all know how it goes.
     

    jfed85

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    Feb 16, 2008
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    How did you change the brakes without taking the caliper off?

    Sometimes there is an allen nut back there in the center...
     

    purdueguy08

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    Mar 23, 2011
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    Everyone has given you good advice. Penetrating oil, then heat with a torch and then use a long handled wrench. Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. PB blaster or liquid wrench are a joke compared to Kroil. Their have been times when i have sprayed a bolt or tube nuts on brake lines with pb blaster and they will not come apart. Then I go grab the Kroil and no soon than I get a wrench back on they unthread.
     
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