bench testing a rifle and slug gun issues

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  • AGarbers

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    Feb 4, 2009
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    Martinsville
    I am trying to sight in my Remington 700 30-06 and a H&R 20 gauge slug gun at 100 yards.
    I am using a Caldwell Lead Sled with 25 pounds of lead shot as weight.
    I can't get either to pattern well and I would like experienced input on what I may be doing wrong. I suspect the way I am holding them.
    Since both still move the lead sled around I have to readjust after each shot and I sometimes pull the gun down tighter into the rest to make the reticle to line up with the target so I am not applying the same pressure to the guns each time I shoot the firearms.
    I know a rep for Caldwell and he said I may be putting to much weight on the lead sled and since the gun is not able to move backwards easily, the barrel bucks. He says I should use less weight to see it it helps.
    My friend was next to me with his Savage 7mm Rem Mag with its free floating barrel, shooting off two loose sand bags, with the butt against his shoulder, and was grouping very well.
    Plus, as I stated before on this forum, I bought a new synthetic stock for my Remington 700, which I had to remove a great deal of material to get the rifle to fit in. The barrel sits perfectly until the last little bit of tightening, then it pulls over and touches the side of the stock lightly. When I put it back in the wood stock, the barrel touches the wood much more tightly so it is not free-floating at all.
    I hate to remove much more material from the plastic stock so I was wondering why I couldn't place a thin washer under the front screw to lift it out of the channel and remove the pinch point.
    One last thing,
    The front screw only catches about 2.5 threads of the receiver while in either stock. I thought a screw had to have 5 threads engaged to get to full tensile strength.
    Any thoughts?
     

    DocIndy

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    Why not free float the barrel in the wood stock and have it glass bedded. While its at the gunsmiths... or apart on your bench... you can do a nice trigger job and clean it up. You can find lots of useful information on how to do the bedding and trigger job if you google it. Or just take it to Scroggins in Martinsville and fork over some cash to have them do it. I bedded my .308 bolt gun, my .223 bolt gun and my .22 with great results.
     

    paperboy

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    Apr 18, 2009
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    I have tried using a friends lead sled but I just couldn't get a good fit with it. Maybe it's just me but I couldn't get used to it. I went back to a cheap front rest, the kind that you fill the little bag with sand and it sits on a three legged adjustible stand. For the back I use one of those zipper tool bags filled with rice. Also, I always sighted in my slug guns in at 50 yrds. This seemed to work fine and 90% of my shots were within 75 yrds anyway. If you sight in at a shorter range you may be able to tighten your groups.
     

    DocIndy

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    Maybe I should have used some purple in that earlier post. Scroggins reloads are famous for being way on the hot side. Long ano, I made the mistake of trying some of his .308 Accelerators and had the case swell enough to lock the bolt so it couldn't be pulled back. Had to tap it open with a cleaning rod and malett. I would never buy his loaded ammo. I used to know a guy who would work at Scroggins part time in the evenings doing some gunsmith work. I would trust him to work on anything I own. If he said he was busy and would have Mike Scroggins work on it, I'd tell him I could wait till his schedule opened up.

    I would seriously look at bedding it yourself. There are many tutorials online that can walk you through it. Its really simple and a nice project for the do-it-yourselfer.
     

    Indy_Guy_77

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    When sighting in a new scope/firearm combo:

    Start closer. 25 yards...zero it.

    Move to 50 yards...dial it in.

    Move to 75...dial it in...

    etc etc.

    Also, one VERY important aspect to repeated accuracy from a firearm is to make sure that your face/head/eyes are in the same place every shot. If you lift your head to cycle the bolt, you stand a good chance at not putting rounds in the same spot.

    Many folks will apply some kind of tactile reminder on their rifle stock (say, a piece of moleskin) so that they KNOW their head/face is in the same spot on the stock every time.

    -J-
     
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    Oct 3, 2008
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    Have you tried it in the original stock? What ammo are you using? Have you checked the scope mounts and rings? What kind of bedding is in the new stock? Did you try the new stock with some pressure on the forend?
     

    nipprdog

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    Jan 11, 2009
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    When sighting in a new scope/firearm combo:

    Start closer. 25 yards...zero it.

    Move to 50 yards...dial it in.

    Move to 75...dial it in...

    etc etc.

    That's wasting a lot of time and ammo. I recently put a new scope on my Savage .223. I bore sighted it on one of my neighbors mailboxes at about 75 yds. Same method I've used for years.

    I took it to the 100yd range. It was only about 7" off. A few shots later, and I was zeroed. ;)



    Also, one VERY important aspect to repeated accuracy from a firearm is to make sure that your face/head/eyes are in the same place every shot.

    Good point. :D
     

    AGarbers

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    Basicly on the slug guns, I want to see how well the slugs group at 100 yards. My 30-06 may be my gun of choice for a bear hunt in 6 weeks. I am going out again now with the slug guns (two) and try using only the front end of the lead sled.
     

    schoolmaster

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    Jun 4, 2009
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    I have never used a lead sled but you are not the first person I have heard of that had an issue with one. Just make up some sand bags and try those. Also I would not want the rifle touching the side of the barrel channel on the fore end. No matter what it takes I would free float that rifle. You will have better results zeroing your slug guns 2 inches high at 50 yards and then checking the drop at 100.
     
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