Any Jeepers in here?

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  • Jackson

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    New Seals

    I picked up a couple new seals today and assembled the differential on the production bearings. I'm done with the front diff. I still need to find a brake caliper bracket. I'm also considering a tie rod and drag link flip kit to flip the tie rod to the top of the knuckle. I'd like to avoid a drop pitman arm if I can and maintain the stock turning radius (to the extent possible). I'm putting on a 4.5" Rubicon Express lift kit when I get to that point.

    I hope I don't end up feeling like the 4.5" lift is too tall. My jeep has always seemed heavy. It has a V8 and probably some extra body panels welded, and a lot of bondo from the previous owner. So it might not sit as tall as other CJ's with the 4.5. The Rubicon Express also came with some pretty long shackles. I'm typically not a fan of really long shackles. I have some Currie greasable shackles I'd been using before and I may just get new front bolts (because the new front springs are YJ width) and continue to use the Curries. That may take a half inch out of the lift.

    The seals I picked up today were different than what came in the kit. I felt like they had a better spring and a stiffer feel. I'm hoping they will seal better than the kit seals. I went ahead and bought two and replaced the other one from the kit as well.

    New seal on the right. The one from the kit is on the left.

    18974716436_bf4ef8307d_z.jpg


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    I like to drive them in with a dowel rod through the opposite end axle tube like this.

    18378382874_afcbacf447_z.jpg


    Tomorrow I'll post a list and some pics of the tools I used so lovemachine will know what he needs when he does his own axles. :) It really shouldn't take as long as I've been taking. My usual work period on the axles looks something like this: I get off work, go home, dick around for awhile, then make it over to my parent's place by 6:30 or 7:00. They usually have something cooking for dinner. So I BS with them, eat some, talk to Mom, etc. Then I go out in the garage and do a setup, clean stuff, piddle, dad comes out and we talk, etc. Then I take notes, take it apart, and start again. Then I go inside, get a drink, talk to Mom, piddle. So I don't get a lot done. lovemachine could do his in a weekend if he were feeling industrious. Or he could do a practice run on the front in one weekend and hit the rear in the next weekend.

    [--- I sent lovemachine a PM when I first started and told him if he didn't have the tools it was a bit of a pain to do the axles, and $150/axle is pretty reasonable if he can find someone he trusted. So it's kind of a conflict to keep goading him in to it in these threads. In all seriousness though, he could tackle it and do a fine job if he were feeling saucy. I would even offer to come over and supervise.---]
     

    Lee11b

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    LOL at Jackson (by the way your pics are superb!!!) found out the 1984 CJ7 I'm interested in is from AZ and TX, and has been owned by the current owner for 20+ years and was NEVER his primary driver. He added hydraulic steering, so when the airlockers are on, steering can still turn with a couple of fingers, 3" suspension lift
     

    Jackson

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    Sounds like he has some money in it. Air lockers aren't cheap. Is it the stock axles? Is it hydraulic only steering, or a hydraulic ram added in addition to the stock steering box? I assume it's the latter. A good after market setup for either is expensive. A hydraulic ram can be added on a budget by drilling and tapping the stock steering box for fittings. It can be pretty stressful to the stock pump and obviously the tie rod and joints. Probably takes some stress off the steering box and frame though. Look for a cooler with that setup.
     
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    Lee11b

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    Dang Jackson your better than a JEEP encyclopedia for us novice jeepers / I won't be able to get over and see the jeep until later this week, but thanks for the info on hydraulics
     

    Jackson

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    Dang Jackson your better than a JEEP encyclopedia for us novice jeepers / I won't be able to get over and see the jeep until later this week, but thanks for the info on hydraulics

    I'm definitely no expert on hydro assist steering. I have just seen a few setups on other people's trucks and read about them a bit. I just know they are one of those things that are probably great if done well, and if not done well probably stress and tear up steering components.

    I may consider a budget steering box tap at some point.
     

    Lee11b

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    strictly mild off roading / I have a 2004 Unlimited that is my "driver" - has 49,800 miles on her / I'm always driving a work truck / I have a 1966 Ford Mustang, nothing special has the Sprint 200, I6 that is my classic ride / I'm looking to replace the Mustang with something I luv a little more
     

    Lee11b

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    I guess you could say I'm addicted to the wave, Jeepers are a unique breed!!! We have a good jeep club around here, and an Iraq veteran buddy of mine is hooked now. He has a 2015 Wrangler Willy's edition that we took off roading 2 weekends ago.
     

    Jackson

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    Tools Needed to Regear

    I'm taking notes Jackson!

    Well, I said I'd post a little about the tools needed to re-gear. You can add it to your notes for your own re-gear project. :) There are tons of better write-ups out there on the web, but I like posting in this Jeep thread. It helps keep me motivated to get things done. So here it is.

    This is the list from the USA Standard Gear installation instructions:

    Dial indicator
    Precision calipers or micrometer
    Gear-marking compound and a clean brush
    Bearing pullers
    Bearing press
    10- or 12-inch spanner wrench or spanner tool
    Misc. hand and air tools including
    – Three-foot-long breaker bar or strong impact gun
    – Pinion nut socket
    – Ring gear bolt socket
    – Main cap bolt socket
    – 6-point or 12-point cross-pin bolt wrench
    – Brake line wrench
    – Pry bars for removing the carrier case
    – Misc. hammers
    – Assorted brass drifts for removing bearing races
    – Center punch or number stamp for marking main caps
    – Oil drain pan
    Torque wrenches

    I can find most of the above in Dad's garage. Since his garage is so cluttered, first I have to create some bench space to work. A 2x8 on some cinder blocks and a piece of plywood on some saw horses came in handy:

    18843328859_0417be046e_z.jpg



    I don't have a bearing puller like this clam shell type one. I haven't used one either, but they look pretty slick in YouTube videos. I used a small shop press from either Harbor Freight or Northern Tool (one of the cheap tool shops). It's kind of like this model, but built a little different. The one in the link looks nicer, actually. I use it with gear puller plates to get bearings off like the pic below. The Dana 30 shims go inside the bearings. This is why it's a lot easier to either make or buy setup bearings. Having to press bearings on and off every time you want to test a different shim setup would really be a pain in the rear. It also increases the chances of damaging the bearing in the removal process. It is pretty likely I'll bend shims up when removing bearings the way I do. Reaming out the old bearings on the inside so they will fit on by hand will allow them to be used during the setup process.

    18631753240_a6d1a3a143_z.jpg


    You also need a press to put the bearing back on. There are probably other ways to get the bearings on, but in my opinion, a press is the right way to do it. If a person was careful they might be able to slowly work the bearings on with a brass drift punch and a hammer, or something flat and a hammer. I would buy one of these cheap presses before I went about it that way.

    Dad keeps a coffee can full of old inner bearing races with the outer cage cut off. They are various sizes for shafts and pinions we've used, and have been relieved on the inside to slip over the work pieces. They fit up against the inner race of the new bearings very well, obviously. It keeps the press plates on the bottom from pushing on the outer bearing cage.

    19003294206_dd95f065ba_z.jpg


    Then you need some tools to measure things. I had a selection of torque wrenches. A 1/2" drive that goes 50-250 ft/lb, a 3/8ths drive that does 20 to something, which I used for bearing caps and ring gear bolts. And an in/lb torque wrench for measuring bearing pre-load. It needs to be a beam or dial type, the click type won't work for this measurement. They can be found inexpensively on Amazon, or you can go high end. The one pictured below is pretty old and the indicator bar is bent so it starts 2.5 in/lbs low. The scale is also kind of weird, with the 10's being broken in to 4 graduations (apparently 2.5 in/lb per line). I'm sure it's not super accurate, but it's close enough for my purposes. You'll also need a dial indicator with a magnetic base to measure backlash and calipers to measure shim thickness. Most of what we're using are just cheap stuff from Harbor Freight. I included some links. I would use better stuff if I needed real precision or did it for a living. Just to use every once in awhile, I think the cheap stuff is good enough.

    18408866493_1ca5a56e45_z.jpg


    Having an assortment of impact enhancing and directing devices is handy. Some brass drift punches, a dead blow hammer, some rubber and nylon mallets, and a ball peen hammer were all used at some point. After I was done, I collected up what was on the floor and took this picture. A seal driver set helps. A seal puller can be handy, and I used one. But I usually end up using a big screwdriver or something. I find the inner axle seals come out easier if you just knock them out through the axle tube. I used a random piece of conduit I found in the garage to knock them out and a dowel rod against one of the plastic seal driver attachments to put the new ones back. The piece of angle iron in the photo below has a hole drilled in it and a cut out to make clearance for a socket. This is used to hold the pinion yoke when torquing the pinion nut. I've seen other people use a large pipe wrench on the yoke and it seems to work well. An impact wrench and air ratchet will make the whole thing go a bit faster. I used a medium-sized crow bar to pry the carrier out the first time as well.

    18843332999_2b65df3826_z.jpg



    That was about it aside from standard wrenches and ratchets, and appropriate sized sockets. Two small jack stands to hold the axles up and random blocks of wood to support the pinion at various times. I lost some of this post in the editing because I did something stupid.

    When are you going to start on yours, lovemachine? Some low gears and selectable lockers front and rear would make your Jeep really sexy.
     
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    Outlaw

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    Outlaw

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    The biggest reason I did those was because the originals were crunched up from the PO. Next will be body work and paint. Then on to the lift wheels and tires. With the bed coating inside somewhere in between.
     

    Jackson

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    The biggest reason I did those was because the originals were crunched up from the PO. Next will be body work and paint. Then on to the lift wheels and tires. With the bed coating inside somewhere in between.

    Looks good. Will look even better with bigger tires. Now if you could just fix the headlight shape, you'd be getting somewhere. :)
     

    Lee11b

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    LOL at the headlight shape....their still a JEEP....definitely not a tactical beer can Hummer. Yes, Jackson I've had her on very mild off roading, but don't want to spend too much money beefing her up. I would rather buy another jeep (kind of goes with the gun for almost every caliber of bullet...LOL) that someone has painstakingly spent a lot of time (and money) getting into an off road monster, plus have the scratches, dings and dents that won't horrify the wife or me. It's kind of like having the Sunday driver and the Saturday beast mobile theory.
     

    Lee11b

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    That's like when I got into kayaking, I bought a slightly used one, (started with a 15ft, now have a 16.5ft) so when a couple newbies were horrified by the little rock scratches in theirs; We'd horrify them with our rock gouges on ours.
     
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