And I thought ARs were expensive.

[Exodus]

So I've been doing some research on rounding out my gun collection and getting a long range gun. I really like the 700 AAC -SD I think it is. The one with 20 in heavy, threaded barrel. I want to put in one of the magazine bottoms. So there goes modifying or buying a new stock.

Would it be cheaper to build than buy and upgrade?

What is the site to go to for the answers I haven't asked yet but should have?

 

[cubbetm]

Buy someone else's build and modify it to suit your needs. If you buy the rifle, a stock, mag well and mags, rail, optic and rings, bipod, etc etc it adds up quick. If you can find one that is close to what you want you can sell off what you don't like and use that money for what you want

 

[avboiler11]

AAC-SD is a fine base rifle if you want a 308.

The factory Hogue stock is a dogpile, and replacement is highly recommended. A Bell & Carlson Medalist is a good option for $250ish, and they come in a number of different styles; I prefer the M40 Medalist or the A2 Medalist, though many folks like the A3 "Light Tactical" version. B&Cs come inletted for factory BDL bottom metal, which is what the AAC-SD comes with.

If you want an aftermarket detachable magazine system, you have a couple options. "Best" is probably a PTG DBM that uses a Badger M5 inlet; you can send the stock to Badger or any competent gunsmith to be inletted for the M5 pattern DBM. This DBM uses AICS-pattern magazines. CDI Precision also makes a good DBM, and will inlet your stock for $60 shipped back to you.

Another option is PTG has recently come out with a DBM that fits a 700 factory BDL inlet, and it uses Accuracy International AE Mk. I magazines which are very reliable but run about $80 a pop. This is similar to the "Wyatt" conversion, but between the two, PTG is probably the 'best' bet.

 

[lucky4034]

The glass is whats going to get you...

It does no good to build a $1200 precision rifle and put a $400 scope on it. More than likely, a stock Remington is more accurate than you are (given the nature of the question), so while you can build one that looks super dooper badass, it won't matter unless your scope and your skill is up to par with the rifle.

To shoot 1200yd headshots:
You will need a rifle that is capable... which means building one for at least $1000 (likely more)
A scope that is capable.... which means $1000++ (likely more)
And a rifleman that is capable.... which means hundreds/thousands of rounds (likely thousands = $1000++ or better yet, learning how to reload precision ammo which takes time and $1000+)

I don't know what you are capable of shooting now.... maybe you are Army sniper and never looked at how much these cost, but if you are looking to get into long range shooting for the first time in your life, consider this.

Unless you are capable of shooting 1000yds and have $2000++ to spend on a rifle that can shoot 1000yds (and have access to a place to shoot 1000yds)....

...Why not simply buy a stock Remington 700 ($500) capable of making 400-500 yd shots out of the box and purchase a scope that is capable of shooting 400-500yds ($500) and then see if you like it? Then if you find that you need more, upgrade as necessary.

 

[ol' Huff]

Are you married to the 700 action? Ruger and Savage make excelent bolt action rifles that are slicker off the the rack in my experience. 700s are alright but I completely second the comment on the Hogue stock. not only that but Rem won't cover the Hogue stock and the last 2 new 700s I have seen have had problems with the fit of the action to the Hogue stock.

When its time for glass go for the Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x44 (Second focal plane will save you some cash).

 

[avboiler11]

It does no good to build a $1200 precision rifle and put a $400 scope on it.

$1200 is barely pocket change in the long range precision game...you're basically talking a factory barreled action in an aftermarket stock for that little investment. But there are plenty of folks that put $300 SWFA SS fixed-power scopes on a 700 barreled action sitting in a Bell & Carlson or Choate stock and have plenty of success out to and even beyond 1000yd.

You don't have to sell a kidney and buy a GA Precision with Schmidt & Bender to shoot accurately at 1000+.

For grins, here's my $1200 precision rifle (a Savage where everything but the barrel & DBM were used) with a $550 (Vortex Viper HST 4-16x44) scope on it. While the longest range I typically have to shoot is 650yd I've shot the scope to 1100yd...while it wasn't quite as crisp as a friend's Bushnell HDMR, I didn't exactly feel like I was shooting through a Centerpoint either.

 

[IndyGunworks]

Getting into the custom long range rifle game is expensive. I will have over 3000 into my current build.

Remington 700 LA, blueprinted. 700
Fluted bolt w/ bolt knob added 125
Broughton 28 inch fluted barrel threaded w/ muzzle break 450
Barreled action cerekoted flat black 150
Rifle basix trigger 200
Mcmillan HTG stock w/ adjustable cheek piece in gap camo w/ freeland rail 800
PTG bottom metal 175
Two mags 100
20 moa canted base 200
rings 150
scope 1000

 

[ol' Huff]

I have a Burris XTR 6-24x50mm that is so obnoxiously clear its weird. I ran it side by side with a comparable S&B and it was every bit on that level. Problem was it cost $850. Vortex isn't trying to be the best scope in the world. They are trying to give you the most functionality for a reasonable price AND THEY DO IT.

The scope I mentioned above is every bit the high priced Burris that I own and the S&B and Leupolds in its class at a lower cost. Its also available in 1st or 2nd focal plane.

I don't know what is considered a long range precision rifle. My current bolt action rifle in .30 government '06 will produce MOA groups at a variety of distances for less than 1K and ammo at $.32 a piece BEFORE the bipod goes on.

Keep it simple early until you learn from use what you need.

 

[Exodus]

Are the stocks on Savages better than stock 700 stocks?

I'm no military sniper and the longest range I've ever shot is 100 yards. I just put the first scope on any gun I've ever owned last month, 10/22 takedown with threaded barrel! I only know of a place nearby that is out to 600 yards. The basics I'm looking for out of whatever rifle I buy is threaded and heavy barrel around 20 inches. I don't care how sweet looking the stock is the one on avboiler11's is perfect looking to me. I have looked at the ruger gunsite scout but wish the barrel was a tad longer.

 

[IndyGunworks]

If your using optics the barrel length doesn't matter, unless you are purposefully trying to push velocities to the limit, or shooting at the farthest distances the cartridge will allow. Out to 600 yards barrel length would be very very far down on my list of concerns.

 

[avboiler11]

Savage factory stocks are about the same as a Remington, honestly...in some cases worse and some better.

The stock on my rifle is a McMillan A5, and Savage makes a factory 308 with that stock and a factory DBM (10FCP McMillan).

You might seriously consider a Savage 11 Hog Hunter. The factory stock is garbage, so drop it into a Bell & Carlson A2 Medalist (model 2997) and remove the iron sights for aesthetics if you wish. Figure $450 for the rifle and $250 for the stock. It will be a blind magazine and not a DBM, but you can get a DBM and the stock inletted for it down the road as your budget allows.

This is what the 11 Hog Hunter in an A2 Medalist looks like:

 

[groovatron]

The glass is whats going to get you...

It does no good to build a $1200 precision rifle and put a $400 scope on it. More than likely, a stock Remington is more accurate than you are (given the nature of the question), so while you can build one that looks super dooper badass, it won't matter unless your scope and your skill is up to par with the rifle.

To shoot 1200yd headshots:
You will need a rifle that is capable... which means building one for at least $1000 (likely more)
A scope that is capable.... which means $1000++ (likely more)
And a rifleman that is capable.... which means hundreds/thousands of rounds (likely thousands = $1000++ or better yet, learning how to reload precision ammo which takes time and $1000+)

I don't know what you are capable of shooting now.... maybe you are Army sniper and never looked at how much these cost, but if you are looking to get into long range shooting for the first time in your life, consider this.

Unless you are capable of shooting 1000yds and have $2000++ to spend on a rifle that can shoot 1000yds (and have access to a place to shoot 1000yds)....

...Why not simply buy a stock Remington 700 ($500) capable of making 400-500 yd shots out of the box and purchase a scope that is capable of shooting 400-500yds ($500) and then see if you like it? Then if you find that you need more, upgrade as necessary.

I understand your thoughts on this, but I disagree with one thing. A modern out of the box production 700 or model 10 is more than capable of hitting gongs at 1K. I've done it with hunting rifles all day long. Most important thing is to understand your loads trajectory table and have a piece of glass that is capable of accurately dialing elevation. I've done it with a NF and I've done it with Prostaff. If your gear is properly setup, the shooter has done his homework, and basic shooting fundamentals are exercised, just about all modern production .308's can stretch out to 1k.

To the OP.
Check out this Savage Savage Arms. I was in the same boat as you a couple years ago and went with this as an inexpensive option that had all the "cool" features I wanted. It has been a great rifle. Everything you need out of the box....just add the glass and rings and maybe a bipod. If you are not dead set on a mag-fed rifle or threaded barrel, any 700 or model 10 HB version rifles would be gtg.

As far as glass......I wouldn't start with a 2k scope unless you have money to burn. I'd start with something like an sfwa fixed power SWFA SS 16x42 Tactical Riflescope or something from Vortex if you want variable magnification and have a higher budget.

These days, you can build a fine distance rifle for around 1k. If you end up getting into it heavy, there will be plenty of high-end builds for you to dabble with in the future

 

[groovatron]

Savage factory stocks are about the same as a Remington, honestly...in some cases worse and some better.

The stock on my rifle is a McMillan A5, and Savage makes a factory 308 with that stock and a factory DBM (10FCP McMillan).

You might seriously consider a Savage 11 Hog Hunter. The factory stock is garbage, so drop it into a Bell & Carlson A2 Medalist (model 2997) and remove the iron sights for aesthetics if you wish. Figure $450 for the rifle and $250 for the stock. It will be a blind magazine and not a DBM, but you can get a DBM and the stock inletted for it down the road as your budget allows.

This is what the 11 Hog Hunter in an A2 Medalist looks like:

I really like what you did there! Nice little Savage for sure.

 

[tenring]

Have one of those Super Snipers in 16X on top of a 700 VSF [stock] in .308. When having a good day, it's a 5 shots in a jagged hole at 100, with a 175 SMK, same with 168 SMK, and if I drive the Palma's close to 2900, same thing. That mil dot is child's play to some, but in my case it will take some extra work on my part. I did have to change out the O-rings on the scope turrents to make them easier to turn on a cold day, that and some silicone paste make for smooth turrent turning now.

 

[short308]

Most hobbies get that way if you want to play with the big boys.

 

[indyjohn]

Boy, Exodus, I think you did real well here. You got a number of the smart INGO LR guys posting in your thread and as a result A LOT OF GOOD info.

Here is my foray into the 1000 yd game 10 years ago. Late '90s production Remy PSS in .308, AI AICS 1.0, Leupold 6.5-20x50 LR/T, Ken Farrell +20 MOA base, Anshutz backup Front & Rear sights. etc, etc. I had around $2000 in it... 10 years ago.

 

[tradertator]

I have both the Remington 700 AAC and Ruger GSR, and love them. The 700 is set up heavier for my bench style shooting, while the GSR is my hunting rig.

Here's my 700. Leupold MKIV 10X LR/T, Badger rings, Badger 20 MOA base, Tactical Interventionist Quick Cuff sling, Bell & Carlson stock, Eagle Pack with BALLS attachment:


Ruger GSR with Leupold FXII 2.5X scope, Leupold QRW rings, Galco Ching Sling

 

[Exodus]

So I pulled the trigger. Gun shop was running a sale and he sold almost all of his 308s but he had this one left and I felt for the price I could sacrifice the threaded barrel while gaining detachable box magazine.

Bought a Savage 10P, they were limited run pretty basic model 10. Heavy barrel, 5R rifling (not sure what this is), accutrigger, basic stock, big extended bolt arm, and as said box mag. Paid 510 before tax. Hopefully I didn't do to bad for a first real rifle.

 

[shooter521]

5R rifling (not sure what this is)

From the internet:
5R-rifling features a radius'd shoulder between the lands and the grooves. Advantages are claimed to be a smoother engraving transition on the bullet jacket which, in theory at least, creates less drag in flight - which means possibly a slightly flatter shooting bullet compared to a bore of standard rifling profile. The second benefit is cleaning. Without the 90-degree angles between lands and grooves, fouling seems less likely to adhere as tenaciously to the bore. Copper fouling may also be reduced. This rifling profile is used in the Army's M24 Sniper rifle. It has a proven track record for accuracy at long range, often making M.O.A. or better shots possible to 1000 yards.

Ya done good.

 

[avboiler11]

$510 for a 10P is pretty reasonable, especially when you see what a 10FP-SR sells for.

Is yours the 24" barrel model, or the 18" threaded model?