Aimpoint it is....

[Faine]

I got the H1, didn't need NV capability on the firearm it was intended for. It sits on a LaRue Tactical high mount and the combo was purchased direct from LaRue Tactical. I also spent a little more and got a cover for it from Tango Down, took some work getting it on but it's a quality cover that protects something that probably doesn't need a ton of protecting.

Add my cowitness vote to the lower 1/3 category, though I would lean towards a LaRue at any height over any other mount except (maybe) a Bobro.

I haven't messed with the Reflex/Small Redot mounts from Bobro, but I do have one Bobro mount for a Vortex PST 1-4 and it is my absolute favorite mount ever. I'm so impressed with Bobro that when I get new firearms I look to see if a Bobro mount will work on them.

 

[Justin727]

I have a Pelican Case 1700 that I am going to use for this AR Pistol and my Glock 19. I would like to go ahead and cut the foam out but I am not sure how much room to leave for the H1/T1 and I know the mount will make a difference on this as well.

As I work on laying out the items that I would like to fit in the case I am realizing that with the optic mounted I would create a lot of dead space in the case and would not be able to fit everything that I want to. Forgetting about the optics for a moment, if I lay the pistol in the case with 1.5 inches of foam between the rail and the top of the case that leaves enough room to fit everything I want plus an area specifically for the optic.

QUESTION: Once the optic is mounted do I need to leave it in place? Or is it okay to remove it from the upper for transportation in the case?

To some removing it would be a considered "a pain" and I understand that but as long as when I mount it back up I am good to go without worrying about zeroing again I will be happy.

 

[tradertator]

Some will tell you it depends on the mount, but I would still strongly recommend only removing it in the event of an emergency (glass breaks, becomes obstructed with debris, etc...), especially if there is even a remote chance you might need it in a self defense situation. I personally would not feel comfortable sending lead down range unless I have verified the zero with the optic mounted, regardless who made it. And ammo is too expensive & life is too short to require a re-zeroing drill each time you go out to shoot. It looks really cool in the movies when you see a hitman assembling a rifle from a case and mounting his scope in the field, but is not very practical in reality.

 

[Justin727]

Some will tell you it depends on the mount, but I would still strongly recommend only removing it in the event of an emergency (glass breaks, becomes obstructed with debris, etc...), especially if there is even a remote chance you might need it in a self defense situation. I personally would not feel comfortable sending lead down range unless I have verified the zero with the optic mounted, regardless who made it. And ammo is too expensive & life is too short to require a re-zeroing drill each time you go out to shoot. It looks really cool in the movies when you see a hitman assembling a rifle from a case and mounting his scope in the field, but is not very practical in reality.

I figured this would be the case. I would much rather have the optic mounted, zeroed and never remove it BUT I am just weighing my options as leaving it mounted will sacrifice quite a bit of space in my case.

 

[Faine]

I have a Pelican Case 1700 that I am going to use for this AR Pistol and my Glock 19. I would like to go ahead and cut the foam out but I am not sure how much room to leave for the H1/T1 and I know the mount will make a difference on this as well.

As I work on laying out the items that I would like to fit in the case I am realizing that with the optic mounted I would create a lot of dead space in the case and would not be able to fit everything that I want to. Forgetting about the optics for a moment, if I lay the pistol in the case with 1.5 inches of foam between the rail and the top of the case that leaves enough room to fit everything I want plus an area specifically for the optic.

QUESTION: Once the optic is mounted do I need to leave it in place? Or is it okay to remove it from the upper for transportation in the case?

To some removing it would be a considered "a pain" and I understand that but as long as when I mount it back up I am good to go without worrying about zeroing again I will be happy.

Depends entirely on the mount. If you have a return to zero mount you'll be golden. If not, you "might" be ok. Many mounts are quick detach and are not a "pain" to remove, so that wouldn't be a concern, just make sure you don't really skimp if you're going that route because the mounts' features become more pronounced when you're talking about doing something other than Ron Popeiling it (Set it and forget it.)

 

[tradertator]

Like I said, removing the optic for me is a last resort measure, but many quality mounts will return very close to where you had it zero'd. Also, if you do decide to remove it, be sure to attach it at the exact same spot you originally had it zero'd at. Anymore, most flat top AR's are marked with reference numbers, and make this pretty easy to do. I usually make a reference mark on my upper where the optic sits as a KISS type measure.

 

[Robjps]

You guys really get into the co-witness. What would make your Aimpoint unusable to the point you needed irons in that case what exactly is a co-witness going to do for you.

I'd look into QD before worrying about which type of co-witness you have. If your Aimpoint is trashed odds are you need a mangled chunk of metal out of the way.

I cheaped out and went with Daniel Defense mount nothing wrong with it but i regretted not buying the LaRue i wanted in the first place. Now it sits in its box on the shelf of parts a reminder of buy once cry once.

 

[JollyMon]

You guys really get into the co-witness. What would make your Aimpoint unusable to the point you needed irons in that case what exactly is a co-witness going to do for you.

I'd look into QD before worrying about which type of co-witness you have. If your Aimpoint is trashed odds are you need a mangled chunk of metal out of the way..

What about a dead battery?

 

[Robjps]

What about a dead battery?

Battery lasts 5 years? 5 years..... if you cant spend $2.50 every couple years on a gun you have $2500 in.....

 

[JollyMon]

Battery lasts 5 years? 5 years..... if you cant spend $2.50 every couple years on a gun you have $2500 in.....

And... Does that mean it wont go out when you dont want it to? You talk about the only time an aimpoint would go down is when it was a "twisted hunk of metal"... I see a dead battery or electronics failing being a very important consideration to what co witness you want.

 

[vitamink]

True story I had an aimpoint get some corrosion on the battery and essentially shut off after the first shot. I flipped my sights up and continued. Later I swapped the 5 month old battery out. Murphys law is a ***** when it comes to life saving equipment. I also let a friend check out a rifle with a brand new eotech. I turned the thing on and handed it to him. He pressed the NV button before giving it back. I assumed he shut it off. In both cases I used my irons and didn't remove the sight.

 

[patience0830]

It was used as in it was purchased, removed from the box, and put on the rifle. There is a tiny pin that runs through the fulcrum of the lever if you apply to much pressure the pin Shears off and mount no worky. The issue I had was that at xxx tightness it was fine. Slightly tighter and it broke. I realize I broke it, but I can't break the larue mount so I just trashed it and bought that. I also find it to be better made and lighter (for the absolute co witness).

a tiny bit and a piece of hardened drill rod and a tiny staking job prolly would have solve that trouble. I can't afford a Hummer. I'd had to fix it.

 

[Sling10mm]

My first AimPoint was a 2MOA T-1 (still have), my second was a 4MOA H-1 (still have), and the next two were PRO's (still have). I am now looking at getting another H-1 on a LaRue LT661 mount for an AK. I am leaning toward the H-1 because it is a little cheaper and I don't ever anticipate using a night vision optic, or dunking it in more than a few feet of water.

I would recommend the H-1.

 

[tradertator]

You guys really get into the co-witness. What would make your Aimpoint unusable to the point you needed irons in that case what exactly is a co-witness going to do for you.

I'd look into QD before worrying about which type of co-witness you have. If your Aimpoint is trashed odds are you need a mangled chunk of metal out of the way.

I cheaped out and went with Daniel Defense mount nothing wrong with it but i regretted not buying the LaRue i wanted in the first place. Now it sits in its box on the shelf of parts a reminder of buy once cry once.

The Aimpoints are tough, no doubt about it. But they are also electronic, and electronics can fail. I actually trust the Aimpoints more than I do the batteries, and have learned the hard way to check the date on the package prior to purchasing it. Some of the dates will blow your mind too, it's amazing how long something like a 1/3N battery can sit around a store waiting to be purchased.

The other thing I love about a lower 1/3 or absolute cowitness mount is the ability to reconfirm your zero using your iron sights through the optic.

 

[Robjps]

And you all missed the point. Re-read what i said.

Worrying about if your co witness is 1/3 or absolute is not nearly as important as being able to remove the aimpoint/mount quickly so you can use your irons.

 

[JollyMon]

And you all missed the point. Re-read what i said.

Worrying about if your co witness is 1/3 or absolute is not nearly as important as being able to remove the aimpoint/mount quickly so you can use your irons.

Just flipping up your irons and using them through the red dot is much faster then taking off the red dot (even if its a quick detach), throwing it on the ground, and then flipping up your irons.

 

[Robjps]

Just flipping up your irons and using them through the red dot is much faster then taking off the red dot (even if its a quick detach), throwing it on the ground, and then flipping up your irons.

Did you read what i said at all.

 

[Robjps]

I am going to try to make it clear.

If your aimpoint takes a dump on you in a situation where it is important there is a very good chance something has happened to the tube or lens. Making your co-witness irons either 1/3 of absolute (it doesn't matter) useless as they are blocked by the aimpoint. A QD mount on your aimpoint is a very wise investment for this reason.

 

[tradertator]

I am going to try to make it clear.

If your aimpoint takes a dump on you in a situation where it is important there is a very good chance something has happened to the tube or lens. Making your co-witness irons either 1/3 of absolute (it doesn't matter) useless as they are blocked by the aimpoint. A QD mount on your aimpoint is a very wise investment for this reason.

I don't think anyone misread what you wrote, they just disagree with it. IMO, your power source is much more likely to fail (corrosion, bad battery, etc....), than the tube or lens incurring so damaged that the view through your Aimpoint becomes completely obstructed. The body's and lenses are built tough as nails, but the sight still needs electricity to run (albeit, not much). If given the option to not remove my optic in the event of a failure, and just flip up my backup irons, I'll take it. I don't care who made the mount, I won't rely on the optic until I have verified that the zero hasn't shifted. If I have the option of avoiding that process and can leave the optic mounted, I'm happy to do so. I do agree though, having the ability to completely remove the optic is most important.

 

[JollyMon]

I don't think anyone misread what you wrote, they just disagree with it. IMO, your power source is much more likely to fail (corrosion, bad battery, etc....), than the tube or lens incurring so damaged that the view through your Aimpoint becomes completely obstructed. The body's and lenses are built tough as nails, but the sight still needs electricity to run (albeit, not much). If given the option to not remove my optic in the event of a failure, and just flip up my backup irons, I'll take it. I don't care who made the mount, I won't rely on the optic until I have verified that the zero hasn't shifted. If I have the option of avoiding that process and can leave the optic mounted, I'm happy to do so. I do agree though, having the ability to completely remove the optic is most important.