I didn't take any offense to it either. Honestly, I just see a lot of reasons for buying inexpensively and expensively and ultimately I'd much rather have every fine American with a rifle that they zeroed than no rifle at all.I agree… competitive shooting, a whole other ballgame and I can understand putting in the big bucks!
I don’t knock anyone either. I may bust my friends chops for owning a $3000 AR that still in a safe. Lol. I hope my post didn’t come off as that. All I was trying to convey is that I’m happy with my purchase especially after running it along side a much nicer firearm.
Tim taught members, buy this cheap 1911 and then dump another wheel barrow on money into it so it runs well. Purple if needed.Not just ARs, I learned on the INGO that the cheapest 1911 is just
as good if not better than the high dollar ones and red dot optics, the cheap ones are way better.
Perfect personal example on a 300 blackout. I bought a PSA 16" 300 blackout upper because it was on sale dirt cheap. It's on a PSA lower with an Aero build kit. This is probably the least amount of $$ I've ever had in a single AR, but my intent is to fire a box or two of hunting ammo through it to zero for deer season and then hunt with it. Once that's done, I'm back to being a 5.56 guy. For my purposes, for that particular AR, just about anything will work to pop a deer at 100 yards or less.We have been talking about buying a AR in 300, I must have a few thou empty's I have picked up the last few years at the club. There is a guy that shoots a few hundred 223s and a hundred 300's every week. I hear him shooting and I head to the range to pickup what he leaves on the ground.
I have a set of dies so I can load for a friend. I'm just missing a rifle. I think we are leaning towards a SBR.
He made the mistake of criticizing minor issues like crappy metallurgy in the frames a few times and started avoiding the conversations as much as possible. He learned that the cheaper the better was the way.Tim taught members, buy this cheap 1911 and then dump another wheel barrow on money into it so it runs well. Purple if needed.
And thats about the use that what we are thinking about buying. I have a few of the INGO lowers that are in need of being finished. We are talking about an SBR with maybe a 10 1/2" with a can.Perfect personal example on a 300 blackout. I bought a PSA 16" 300 blackout upper because it was on sale dirt cheap. It's on a PSA lower with an Aero build kit. This is probably the least amount of $$ I've ever had in a single AR, but my intent is to fire a box or two of hunting ammo through it to zero for deer season and then hunt with it. Once that's done, I'm back to being a 5.56 guy. For my purposes, for that particular AR, just about anything will work to pop a deer at 100 yards or less.
I miss ourHe made the mistake of criticizing minor issues like crappy metallurgy in the frames a few times and started avoiding the conversations as much as possible. He learned that the cheaper the better was the way.
I got lucky that I had an extra muzzle device laying around so I can make one simple swap and put the can on it.And thats about the use that what we are thinking about buying. I have a few of the INGO lowers that are in need of being finished. We are talking about an SBR with maybe a 10 1/2" with a can.
I have a zillion 147 grain pulls to feed it on the cheap.
We will have more invested in the can and the stamp than the gun.
In both racing & shooting, at a certain point it costs WAY more to pick up the last little of bit.....here is were we must ask ourselves, is it really honestly worth it??I learned in racing, speed costs money, every small increase costs lots more.
It is the same with accuracy. A slightly improved model is some more than a basic. the next step up costs a lot more, the top shelf costs lots and lots, and lots more, and then some.
Imagine the cost of buying a full sized benchrest barrel blank from HART barrels and having a gunsmith turn a spacegun barrel out of it, AND chamber it with a chamber reamer that was custom machined to your personal design by Clymer. Been there, done that. In fact I did it a second time with a service rifle. OCD generally comes out when involved in competition.In both racing & shooting, at a certain point it costs WAY more to pick up the last little of bit.....here is were we must ask ourselves, is it really honestly worth it??
Yes white oak is better then Rock River Arms, but to the average person is it worth the extra cost. And even I struggle with this.
Your preaching to the (OCD) driver ......where you on my race team as we threw common sense out the window and chased a national championship........HHHHHHHHMMMMMMMM......I'm seeing a pattern here.....OCD......nation championship....nation matches......big horsepower.......across the course.......win/loose by ..007 of a second........win/loose by the X count..........OCD generally comes out when involved in competition.
While I'm at it imagine someone machineing up his own light weight AR rimfire barrel so, he can "skirt" the rules in rimfire sporter competition........Imagine the cost of buying a full sized benchrest barrel blank from HART barrels and having a gunsmith turn a spacegun barrel out of it, AND chamber it with a chamber reamer that was custom machined to your personal design by Clymer. Been there, done that. In fact I did it a second time with a service rifle. OCD generally comes out when involved in competition.
On a National Match course, a hard holder with good eyes can make expert with a rifle that cost less than I spent on barrels and reamers.