.300Blk Sizing Die - brass getting stuck

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  • BackFromDC

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    Hopefully one of the wiser reloading sages here know. I have a Lee 3 die set and I frequently get .300Blk brass stuck in the sizing die, rim rip off and everything. Now it's not unfixable, but I'm kinda over it with taking the collet off and tapping out the pin. :stretcher: I don't see this with other calibers I reload.

    Following previous INGO advise I switched up the case lube, but once or twice within a 250 bag of brass this will still happen. I started with Hornady One Shot spray lube, went onto to Lee and Lyman case lube. I've even tried applying the case lube directly on the brass or in the dies.
     

    gassprint1

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    I'm not a reloader but try to understand things here and there. To me, it sounds like some hard cases which i believe when a case is too hard, it becomes brittle causing splits or cracks. I seen a few posts about people annealing the cases.
     

    BackFromDC

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    I'm not a reloader but try to understand things here and there. To me, it sounds like some hard cases which i believe when a case is too hard, it becomes brittle causing splits or cracks. I seen a few posts about people annealing the cases.
    I don't really see splits and cracks on the openings though. But it could explain the rims shearing off, but I'm also unaware if this level of hardening happens to brass like it does steel.

    The cases do go up into the sizing die ok, just coming out where this issues happens. I don't know if that additional info clarifies anything.
     

    55fairlane

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    Hornady unique or imperial sizing wax. Wax will not dry up . The stuff your using has very little lubrication properties. Forming 300BO adds lots of stress to the case.
    You need a better lubrication then what your using.
    Lubricate the exterior of each case,then, use a cotton swab and lube the inside of every 3rd or 5th or 7th or your experience will tell you how often you need to Lubricate the inside of the neck.
    Be certain to clean your dies to remove any derelict (left over not working) lubrication and garbage. Switch lubrication. Form your brass.
     

    patience0830

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    Not far from the tree
    Hornady unique or imperial sizing wax. Wax will not dry up . The stuff your using has very little lubrication properties. Forming 300BO adds lots of stress to the case.
    You need a better lubrication then what your using.
    Lubricate the exterior of each case,then, use a cotton swab and lube the inside of every 3rd or 5th or 7th or your experience will tell you how often you need to Lubricate the inside of the neck.
    Be certain to clean your dies to remove any derelict (left over not working) lubrication and garbage. Switch lubrication. Form your brass.
    This. A tin of imperial sizing wax will last nearly forever.
     

    55fairlane

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    I don't know the difference between the 2. I personally use Hornady, but I know my fellow competitors use imperial. I don't think it matters, on the imperial I think the redding is green because of branding .....and your so very welcome!
     

    LokhXIV

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    I'm going to agree that you need to clean your dies and use more lube. I use a liquid lanolin mix and haven't had any issues. I just did 1000 or so cases a few weeks ago.
    I usually use a 1:10 mix of lanolin to alcohol. Shake it up in a spray bottle. Then put a couple hundred cases in a gallon ziplock bag, spray a couple times, and mix them around. I let the alcohol evaporate off for a bit before I size them. Usually I prep a bag and then go do something else for a bit. Then prep another bag and let it evaporate while I size the previous one. I dry tumble the lube off after I'm done sizing.

    You can get enough lube to do 10's of thousands of cases for like $55 on amazon lol. Plus you'll have plenty of alcohol left over for cleaning purposes when you need it.


     

    patience0830

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    I'm going to agree that you need to clean your dies and use more lube. I use a liquid lanolin mix and haven't had any issues. I just did 1000 or so cases a few weeks ago.
    I usually use a 1:10 mix of lanolin to alcohol. Shake it up in a spray bottle. Then put a couple hundred cases in a gallon ziplock bag, spray a couple times, and mix them around. I let the alcohol evaporate off for a bit before I size them. Usually I prep a bag and then go do something else for a bit. Then prep another bag and let it evaporate while I size the previous one. I dry tumble the lube off after I'm done sizing.

    You can get enough lube to do 10's of thousands of cases for like $55 on amazon lol. Plus you'll have plenty of alcohol left over for cleaning purposes when you need it.


    Official nickname: CheapDIY
     

    rb288

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    I use the Imperial sizing wax and it is great.
    But, I had the same issue of sticking cases a while back and realized that some of the "new" cases I had been trying to size were not trimmed properly and we're just a bit to long.
    So when trying to size, I was jamming the end of the case into the die and they were getting stuck.
    Even with "new" brass, make sure they are trimmed to proper length.
    "Ready to load" new brass, sometimes, isn't all that "ready".
    EDIT...
    I should add that I anneal all my cases, even new ones, just as a part of my reloading process.
     

    2in1evtime

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    I use royal case and die lube, haven't stuck a case in years. Could be your to light on lube, maybe inferior brass? Use a universal decapping die, then clean your brass before resizing. I had most my stuck cases when i tried the lyman lube, others have also. Also how many firings on the cases?
     

    Creedmoor

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    Yes, I do a tumble in walnut and then an ultrasonic clean cycle.
    I would suggest you stop using the ultrasonic till AFTER you size them.
    You are washing off any of the wax left after dry tumbling now just on the outside but also the inside of the cases.

    I dry tumble, load and then do a quick tumble for a final cleaning.
     

    BackFromDC

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    I would suggest you stop using the ultrasonic till AFTER you size them.
    You are washing off any of the wax left after dry tumbling now just on the outside but also the inside of the cases.

    I dry tumble, load and then do a quick tumble for a final cleaning.
    I usually apply case lube after the walnut tumble and ultrasonic bath, is that ok? Or is that still going to give me problems?
     

    Creedmoor

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    I usually apply case lube after the walnut tumble and ultrasonic bath, is that ok? Or is that still going to give me problems?
    I would do a run that you just dry tumble and eliminate a known problem with wet tumbling. Run 50 cases that were just dry tumbled, shake and lube with spray lube making sure some lube gets inside of the necks and let dry for AWHILE...
    VERY important to let them dry.
    Size those 50 and see what happens.
     
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