.22LR Rifle Range Fun

[doddg]

Bright yesterday, TRS was on 9 setting. Worked fine

My Leupold RDS is 1 moa dot and is bright

What distance?

 

[johntheplinker]

Love to see those pics!
I have read great things about the Tikka T1x.
I bought bricks of ammo from a member here who swore by them.

Was looking at the spread sheet I've got to keep track of groups. With the T1x I've shot 17 types of ammo for record. Of those 17, the worst is exactly 2 MOA, or 1" at 50 yards. That was some cheap Federal bulk. Quite a few average between 1 and 1.5 MOA (.5"-.75"). Five are sub MOA. My thoughts are it isn't going to get much better than .6-.8 MOA even with higher grades of ammo as I'm limited by optics (16x max hunting scope) and the operator (old and shaky).

 

[larcat]

Picked up my 455 trainer yesterday. I had a 455 Lux that I sold some time ago. Dumb mistake, lesson learned. I was expecting the wood to not be too pretty bit I'm very pleasantly surprised. Sights seem awesome too. Must have just lucked out on the wood.

 

[gmcttr]

Yesterday must have been 'pick up your CZ rifle' day. I got my 457 At-One and doddg picked one up as well.

 

[doddg]

Picked up my 455 trainer yesterday. I had a 455 Lux that I sold some time ago. Dumb mistake, lesson learned. I was expecting the wood to not be too pretty bit I'm very pleasantly surprised. Sights seem awesome too. Must have just lucked out on the wood.

I was given a heads-up that the non-walnut wood was hit or miss, but mine was good.
I'll post my pics later since you have set the standard.
Going to the range today with it unexpectedly: thought I'd be working, but I got a reprieve.
Just for fun & curiosity, I'm going to shoot using the iron sights today at 25, 50, 75 & 100 yards.
I might not even be able to get on the 2'x2' paper at 100 yds with my eyes.
I might or might not put the rail, cantilever rings & scope on afterwards; it just depends on how long I stay.
I finally got around to buying my blue loc-tite, so I'm ready.

Yesterday must have been 'pick up your CZ rifle' day. I got my 457 At-One and doddg picked one up as well.

I didn't expect mine till next week (14 days), so a pleasant surprise to get it in 10 days.
I'll look forward to you out-shooting me using my own gun, like you've done before.

 

[larcat]

Curious about the bolt throw differences.

I really, really like the 457 Royale but it would have been literally twice as expensive as this trainer was NIB.

Yesterday must have been 'pick up your CZ rifle' day. I got my 457 At-One and doddg picked one up as well.

 

[larcat]

If you're thinking about sticking with irons at all gimme a holler maybe. I got the 3 pack of ghost ring type leaf replacements for the tangents from J&P and I can't imagine myself switching them around after I figure out which one I like the best.

Still sorta suspect that I'll end up moving to a tech sight receiver mounted rear like I had before but gunna at least five the tangents a whirl. I like em but man is the m1 style rear peep easy to shoot decently with.

I was given a heads-up that the non-walnut wood was hit or miss, but mine was good.
I'll post my pics later since you have set the standard.
Going to the range today with it unexpectedly: thought I'd be working, but I got a reprieve.
Just for fun & curiosity, I'm going to shoot using the iron sights today at 25, 50, 75 & 100 yards.
I might not even be able to get on the 2'x2' paper at 100 yds with my eyes.
I might or might not put the rail, cantilever rings & scope on afterwards; it just depends on how long I stay.
I finally got around to buying my blue loc-tite, so I'm ready.



I didn't expect mine till next week (14 days), so a pleasant surprise to get it in 10 days.
I'll look forward to you out-shooting me using my own gun, like you've done before.

 

[doddg]

Curious about the bolt throw differences.
I really, really like the 457 Royale but it would have been literally twice as expensive as this trainer was NIB.

Are you talking how they went to a 60*?
Maybe I have it confused with a different rifle I read about.

I did check out the smoothness of my bolt 1st thing at the the shop, since the RPR & other bolt-actions were not as smooth as I've read of others being.
In fact, my previous RPR was a bit smoother than my present one, which could be just not broken-in yet.

I would have liked to have ordered the Jaguar model with its 28 inch barrel, but was $150 more.
I was told that when using an optic would negate any benefit beyond 18"-20" barrel length anyway.

 

[gmcttr]

...I finally got around to buying my blue loc-tite, so I'm ready...

Use it sparingly.

 

[doddg]

Use it sparingly.

I've never used it before, now I'm paranoid.
I just read where red permanently locks the screw/bolt in except for pain of 500* heat, while the blue allows a tool to be used.
I'll just use 1 drop if that's the right approach?

 

[doddg]

If you're thinking about sticking with irons at all gimme a holler maybe. I got the 3 pack of ghost ring type leaf replacements for the tangents from J&P and I can't imagine myself switching them around after I figure out which one I like the best.

Oh my no! With my eyes I can't do well at any distance w/o an optic.
I'm just curious & want to see just how bad I will be with the iron sights.
Appreciate the thought, though!

 

[larcat]

Yeah I was just talking about the 60 degree. believe it is a little shorter as well?

Are you talking how they went to a 60*?
Maybe I have it confused with a different rifle I read about.

I did check out the smoothness of my bolt 1st thing at the the shop, since the RPR & other bolt-actions were not as smooth as I've read of others being.
In fact, my previous RPR was a bit smoother than my present one, which could be just not broken-in yet.

I would have liked to have ordered the Jaguar model with its 28 inch barrel, but was $150 more.
I was told that when using an optic would negate any benefit beyond 18"-20" barrel length anyway.

 

[larcat]

I don't know if this is good practice but what has worked for me with small screws:

1) make a small dime sized puddle of blue loctite on a piece of plastic or metal.
2) Dip just the threads in (need to use tweezers.)
3) Roll lightly on paper towel. Capillary action will suck off the excess and you'll be left with a super thin coating that is still sufficient to work.

Again, I'm a total neophyte but this worked pretty good for me.

I've never used it before, now I'm paranoid.
I just read where red permanently locks the screw/bolt in except for pain of 500* heat, while the blue allows a tool to be used.
I'll just use 1 drop if that's the right approach?

 

[gmcttr]

No need to fear blue loctite. It's not that using too much will make it impossible to remove. The excess locktite will be wiped off as you screw in the fastener, you will have more to wipe off and it is a waste of expensive material. Be sure to shake the tube well to mix before using.

With small screws I usually hold the tube sideways or upright and squeeze until a bit of loctite beads on top and then touch the screw to it to pick up a little.

If the screw is too small to easily handle with the loctite on it, I put the screw on the driver, hold it in place with my index finger and then apply the locktite.

 

[doddg]

I don't know if this is good practice but what has worked for me with small screws:
1) make a small dime sized puddle of blue loctite on a piece of plastic or metal.
2) Dip just the threads in (need to use tweezers.)
3) Roll lightly on paper towel. Capillary action will suck off the excess and you'll be left with a super thin coating that is still sufficient to work.
Again, I'm a total neophyte but this worked pretty good for me.

No need to fear blue loctite. It's not that using too much will make it impossible to remove. The excess locktite will be wiped off as you screw in the fastener, you will have more to wipe off and it is a waste of expensive material. Be sure to shake the tube well to mix before using.
With small screws I usually hold the tube sideways or upright and squeeze until a bit of loctite beads on top and then touch the screw to it to pick up a little.
If the screw is too small to easily handle with the loctite on it, I put the screw on the driver, hold it in place with my index finger and then apply the locktite.

Thanks guys!
Nice details in application methods!
I was going to use a toothpick to apply a drop to the threads then wipe the threads around my finger.

At the range when I was putting my rail, rings & scope on after I shot using the iron sights at 25 & 50 yds.
An older guy there was shooting an RPR at 50 yds with 1 hole on 16 small targets), & he was warning me about using too much loc-tite.

I wanted to put a pin hole in the tube of loc-tite & didn't have a needle, so I didn't use any today.
The other guy told me to "kneading" the tube to get it all mixed up properly.

 

[KMaC]

An older guy there was shooting an RPR at 50 yds with 1 hole on 16 small targets), & he was warning me about using too much loc-tite.

I wanted to put a pin hole in the tube of loc-tite & didn't have a needle, so I didn't use any today.
The other guy told me to "kneading" the tube to get it all mixed up properly.

Man, that stings.

 

[KMaC]

I may be old but

This one isn't quite as tight as the in post #45 but better centered.

 

[doddg]

I may be old but
View attachment 90033
This one isn't quite as tight as the in post #45 but better centered.

That is exactly what all 16 of his with an RPR looked like: amazing!

 

[Clay Pigeon]

Wood is hit or miss when you order a Cooper...

View attachment 90035

 

[doddg]

Wood is hit or miss when you order a Cooper...

View attachment 90035

I was warned about that with the CZ, but I guess I lucked out b/c I'm happy with what I got: