1911 Barrel Fitting

[88E30M50]

Quick question regarding the fit of a 1911 barrel: When you have a 1911 that has a barrel that can be pushed down maybe .015" when in battery, what is the best fix? Is it possible to correct this with a longer barrel link? I'm thinking that while I might be able to correct the movement, adding a longer link will cause the barrel to stand on the pin instead of riding the cam on the lug. There are also other timing issues that can be caused by going that route I'm guessing.

To do a true fix for this, should a new barrel be fit by a qualified gunsmith? The gun in question is a Colt 9mm 01992 Govt size 1911. It runs fine but is no tack driver. I'm thinking of ordering an EGW bushing to improve the slop at the bushing end, but don't want to throw money at a part that may be replaced eventually anyhow if a new barrel needs fit.

Or, would it make sense to just replace the bushing to see if that helps accuracy and then just enjoy the gun for what it is instead of trying to turn it into what it's not?

 

[churchmouse]

As we discussed in the CZickness the over size link might help here. .015 might be a stretch. The danged rattle trap Colt.

 

[gmcttr]

What's everyone's thoughts on the Wilson Combat Group Gripper?

I tried one in my Ruger SR1911 and as I recall, it provided some improvement in group size. I didn't leave it in very long though because I didn't like the rough bore finish of the barrel and replaced it with a Kart EZ-Fit barrel and bushing which really tightened up the groups.

 

[Cree]

New barrel, properly fitted, would be your best bet. As Churchmouse stated, .015 is a LOT of ground to make up.

 

[88E30M50]

Thanks guys, I'll see what links I have available in my spares box. I've probably got a #4 and #5 in there to try out from the last time I was trying to take the slop out of something.

 

[churchmouse]

Thanks guys, I'll see what links I have available in my spares box. I've probably got a #4 and #5 in there to try out from the last time I was trying to take the slop out of something.

Slop is not removed with the link. That puts all the stress on the link pin. The lug ramps are what puts the barrel in lock up as they ride up I
On the slide lock pin. Not a good deal.

 

[Cree]

Slop is not removed with the link. That puts all the stress on the link pin. The lug ramps are what puts the barrel in lock up as they ride up I
On the slide lock pin. Not a good deal.

+1. Very good information there. You need a properly fit barrel.

 

[88E30M50]

Yup, that gets back to my original concern about using the link to clean it up. I don't want the barrel standing on the pin but riding the lug cam. What I'm thinking now is that there really should be no slot in there to begin with. If the barrel is moving then it's already not riding the barrel lug cam and maybe a shorter link to bring it back down onto the cam is in order. Again though, that might mess with the timing and how the barrel contacts the bed and VIS.

There is so much going on with such a simple design as the 1911. Stuff like this is what makes them interesting to me.

 

[gmcttr]

... Again though, that might mess with the timing and how the barrel contacts the bed and VIS...

Using a shorter link to pull the barrel down to the lugs would also reduce the barrel to slide locking lug engagement which may not leave an acceptable amount.

 

[churchmouse]

Using a shorter link to pull the barrel down to the lugs would also reduce the barrel to slide locking lug engagement which may not leave an acceptable amount.

Bingo. This is the very 1st thing I check with any new or new to me 1911. Rack the slide to put the barrel into battery. Thumb on barrel hood and push down. If it moves inn the least it is poorly fit up. I expect this on a Para or RIA. Not a Colt but it has become way to common.
If you can move it then it is not in full contact with the pin. No amount of fiddling with the lugs will fix that. .003 or so can be cleaned up with a .203 over size pin.
.015 is a serious issue. The pin will close that gap but not really enough for the effort.

Call the good folks at Clark and see what they have that might fill your needs. They are well made, reasonably priced and I have them in and have used them in several other 1911's. Some you have shot. They are as close to drop in as any I have seen/used.

Please do not start throwing different length links at it. Accuracy is 1st found in the barrel locking up into the lugs. Next in the bushing. This puts the barrel on plane with the slide.

 

[DocIndy]

Install a Infinity Ultra Match bull barrel and make that pony a laser. I have a few of them and they are outstanding barrels.

 

[drillsgt]

How did you measure it to come up with the 0.015? Colt's typically have .197-.198 slide stop pins, if you have access to some gage pins you could see what the difference really is to a tight lock up. EGW makes some .200 and .203 oversized slide stops if you find you are actually within that tolerance. For bushings look at the angle bore bushing from Harrison Design, easy to install and I think superior to the EGW.

 

[ghitch75]

Quick question regarding the fit of a 1911 barrel: When you have a 1911 that has a barrel that can be pushed down maybe .015" when in battery, what is the best fix? Is it possible to correct this with a longer barrel link? I'm thinking that while I might be able to correct the movement, adding a longer link will cause the barrel to stand on the pin instead of riding the cam on the lug. There are also other timing issues that can be caused by going that route I'm guessing.

To do a true fix for this, should a new barrel be fit by a qualified gunsmith? The gun in question is a Colt 9mm 01992 Govt size 1911. It runs fine but is no tack driver. I'm thinking of ordering an EGW bushing to improve the slop at the bushing end, but don't want to throw money at a part that may be replaced eventually anyhow if a new barrel needs fit.

Or, would it make sense to just replace the bushing to see if that helps accuracy and then just enjoy the gun for what it is instead of trying to turn it into what it's not?

weld up the lugs and recut them.....

 

[churchmouse]

How did you measure it to come up with the 0.015? Colt's typically have .197-.198 slide stop pins, if you have access to some gage pins you could see what the difference really is to a tight lock up. EGW makes some .200 and .203 oversized slide stops if you find you are actually within that tolerance. For bushings look at the angle bore bushing from Harrison Design, easy to install and I think superior to the EGW.

I have fondled this Colt and brother she has got a serious case of the battle rattles.

 

[88E30M50]

For now, I'm going to leave the link as is and just order an EGW bushing that will take a bit of the slop out of the front of the barrel. I'll eventually send this one off to a smith to have a new barrel fit, but it's just a range gun and runs fine, so I'll live with the accuracy issue for now.

 

[88E30M50]

I installed the custom EGW bushing and ran the gun this morning. While I won't say that it's a tack driver, it did clean up enough that I'm going to call the barrel issue done. I was able to hold a decent sized group (inside of a 2.5 inch) at 7 yards, which is fine for this gun. Next up will be a detailed trigger job with new ignition parts, safety, MSH and hammer. I'll eventually address the sights and call it done. The gun is running like a champ now with the correct extractor in it and the accuracy is good enough to have fun ringing steel.

 

[churchmouse]

I installed the custom EGW bushing and ran the gun this morning. While I won't say that it's a tack driver, it did clean up enough that I'm going to call the barrel issue done. I was able to hold a decent sized group (inside of a 2.5 inch) at 7 yards, which is fine for this gun. Next up will be a detailed trigger job with new ignition parts, safety, MSH and hammer. I'll eventually address the sights and call it done. The gun is running like a champ now with the correct extractor in it and the accuracy is good enough to have fun ringing steel.

Do the check on drop at the back of the barrel hood. If it is still present do the oversize pin and I will bet it comes into spec or at least close enough for the guys we hang out with.

 

[88E30M50]

Do the check on drop at the back of the barrel hood. If it is still present do the oversize pin and I will bet it comes into spec or at least close enough for the guys we hang out with.

Will do

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