trimming cases

[bustin-arrows]

okay ive figured out that my rcbs die for my 35 rem. wont crimp a trimmed case. i trimmed cases down to 1.8 to meet indiana deer hunting regulations a normal case is 1.920 so heres my question i took the die to a local machine shop and am having them take like .160 off the the bottom of the die well i doing this i would think that tha would allow me to crimp what i need. is this going to work? or am i wasting my money?

 

[kludge]

That's not going to work.

Call Lee Precision; tell them you want a factory crimp die for the .35 Rem with the neck shortened 0.160".

ETA: here's a cross section of a seating/crimping die. If you trim the bottom of the die, the shoulder of the case will still hit the die before the bullet can be crimped.

 

[gutpile]

why not use a 38/357 seat/crimp die with the seating stem pulled? you only need a light crimp, use a set screw die lock ring to keep it consistent i used 303 brit dies to neck size my 7.62x54r brass when i was waiting on dies

 

[bustin-arrows]

Ok after rethinking this its going to resize the neck of my case..... taking die back to machine shop and have the inside of die drilled out a bit to were shoulder won't hit before it gets to where it crimps case I believe this will work is not off to calling Lee .....

 

[bustin-arrows]

Anyone think with me having a bit drilled out of inside die will make this baby work??

 

[kludge]

Yes, that would probably work. You'd have to sit down with the machinist and figure out how much to remove.

 

[bustin-arrows]

Thanks kludge for all your input can't wait to get some loaded up and hopefully have it ready for late firearms season

 

[noylj]

Why a set-screw on the lock ring. I have Never had a Lee die with O-ring work loose and, when I pull the O-ring and use the lock ring upside down, a moderate twist with a wrench has never failed to keep the die locked down. If you have die bushings or tool heads, you never have to loosen the die again.
However, how many can resist loosening up the die any way and trying to "improve" the setting every so often?
IN has a max case length for deer hunting? Wow.
I have never needed to crimp my .30-06 or .30-30 hunting ammo. Does you rifle actually need the crimp?
Just wondering.
I agree with Kludge's first response-contact Lee and get a custom die.

 

[Tom Threetoes]

Lee's web site says that their shop was flooded with requests for custom work and would not take orders till early in 2013. This was last month before gun deer season.

 

[Broom_jm]

Why a set-screw on the lock ring. I have Never had a Lee die with O-ring work loose and, when I pull the O-ring and use the lock ring upside down, a moderate twist with a wrench has never failed to keep the die locked down. If you have die bushings or tool heads, you never have to loosen the die again.
However, how many can resist loosening up the die any way and trying to "improve" the setting every so often?
IN has a max case length for deer hunting? Wow.
I have never needed to crimp my .30-06 or .30-30 hunting ammo. Does you rifle actually need the crimp?
Just wondering.
I agree with Kludge's first response-contact Lee and get a custom die.

Folks are going to try different bullets from time to time, either for plinking or just a different hunting bullet. I'm not sure why the lock ring either...the rubber O-ring design works just fine.

Yes, Indiana has a max case length, and a minimum caliber size (35).

The reason for the crimp is that these 35 Remington cases have a shortened neck, resulting in less tension to hold the bullet. In a lever-action rifle, where the weight of the round in front of it pushes on the bullet, a crimp is indicated. However, I'm going to throw something out here that has been rattling around in my brain.

For the guys working on 1.800" 35 Remington cases, in a lever-action gun, I think the 200gr FTX bullet is a godsend...and I'll tell ya why! When a shot is fired and the round in the magazine presses back on the round "behind" it, due to inertia, that little gummy-tip is very likely to absorb the impact, deform (as it's designed to do) and not result in any bullet setback. I would bet money on it.

What do you guys think? Does that hypothesis make any sense?

 

[bustin-arrows]

Ok a 35 rem doesn't have much recoil. So I wouldn't think there would be enough recoil to set back bullets in a tubular magazine. Anyone else think the same? I'm new to reloading lever guns and have never needed to crimp before.

 

[kludge]

Recoil will tend to pull bullets out of the case.

Loading the magazine will push on the bullets. The bullets can also get pushed into the case by the magazine tube spring, especially after chambering a new round.

 

[bustin-arrows]

Well I have now figured out that my die is roll crimp... next step buying cannelure tool and bullets will crimp from what research I've gathered

 

[kludge]

The Lee crimp die doesn't if your bullet doesn't have a cannelure or the cannelure is not where you need it. Just sayin'.

 

[bustin-arrows]

Well here's what I've came up with... if I send a case with no bullet and turn my die towards shell holder you can see the roll crimp but when I put bullet in and adjust for crimp I can go so much before I starts crushing case.....I think I'm getting some crimp but can't see a crimp

 

[bustin-arrows]

I guess I would have to ask do you think i'm getting enough crimp to shoot these. Or am I not getting a crimp at all sense I'm not on cannelure?

 

[mike trible]

It is not as difficult as it appears. You do not need a machinist. You do not need a cannelure on the bullet. You might not even need a crimp on the bullet, BUT to be on the safe side, I crimp. I have a lever gun with a tubular magazine. The LEE Factory Crimp Die will put as much crimp as you could ever want on the bullet, without a cannelure. Here is what I did, and it works for me. Purchased a Lee Factory Crimp Diie from MIDWAY USA for $12.00. Screwed the die into my press, took a 1/2" hardwood dowel rod and put it down into the top off the die until it touched the collet in the die. With a small hammer gave the dowel rod a hard tap and the collet popped out the bottom of the die. Measured the length of the collet, wrote that number down, and measured again to make sure. Subtracted .12 from that measurement. ( .12 being the difference from normal case length and 1.8 ) With a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool, I took about .10 off the bottom of the collet. Then with hand files I took the last .02 off the bottom of the collet and dressed up the cut. Measure a lot and cut a little. Stuck the collet back into the die and I was in business. I took my time and did not get into a rush, and the whole job took less than an hour.

 

[bustin-arrows]

I've already had my die reworked and if I send a empty case up you can see the crimp but when I'm adjusting it to crimp with bullet it feels like it crimps and if I try a little more crimp it starts to adjust crimp.... so am I getting a crimp?

 

[bustin-arrows]

Is starts to crush case is what I meant

 

[kludge]

Wow, Mike, that's pretty cool, I never really thought it through but that makes perfect sense. Rep'd.