The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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    femurphy77

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    Looks good
    No offense meant but dang those header tubes look small...ok to be honest anything small block just looks small anymore after playing with big blocks the last 15yrs

    Hey! Those are the biggest tubes I've ever used! Of course I've always bought headers off the shelf in the past too. These are only 1 3/4" but then I'm only running about 355 cubic inches with a self imposed red line of 6600 rpm.
     

    thunderchicken

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    I had the engine set in the car once. Started to prime the pump (oil) with a drill and the drive would not turn the pump. The drill ran free and no O.P.
    My dumb ass did not put the drive rod on the pump when it was installed. Had the engine out, pan off, drive rod installed and engine back in the car in a very short time. I work fast when pi$$ed off.

    We had one years ago in in a late model tht we primed with a drill. Was the drill was removed the oil pump drive shaft lifted out of the pump and fell into the pan
     

    thunderchicken

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    Hey! Those are the biggest tubes I've ever used! Of course I've always bought headers off the shelf in the past too. These are only 1 3/4" but then I'm only running about 355 cubic inches with a self imposed red line of 6600 rpm.

    Hey it wasn't a dis, I kept think the same thing every time I walked by a small block at PRI too. I'm used to seeing stuff like ours that are 2 1/2" primary tubes with 6" collectors.
    I like it though
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Two items of business: turbo 400 is out. I want a trans with OD and lockup. At the very least, lockup. I can handle no OD as long as I can run a (low? high?) gear, like a 2.72 or something. But I don't think I can live without OD. My current train of thought is a 700r4. Reading into them now, but of course I'd like y'all's opinion, too.

    Next, and more important: I need some advise on my roll cage for the Notch. I need at least a 4 point cage and I need it to be 1-3/4" with a .120 or greater wall thickness if it's going to be mild steel. I've looked at a couple different places and I'm leaning toward an All Star Performance kit or ordering from Auto Weld Chassis out of Pennsylvania. Both kits look to be similar in price, but I'd pay a little extra for the Auto Weld kit if they can match what I need. I might call tomorrow and see what they say.
    My question is, would there be someone here in Indy that I could call, say I have an 85 Mustang and need a 4 point cage that meets NASA specs, have them bend it up for me, and then I install it? I'd really like to keep the price under $500. Both kits I just mentioned are under $300 before shipping, so I don't *think* that I'm too far off base.

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    ChristianPatriot

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    Two items of business: turbo 400 is out. I want a trans with OD and lockup. At the very least, lockup. I can handle no OD as long as I can run a (low? high?) gear, like a 2.72 or something. But I don't think I can live without OD. My current train of thought is a 700r4. Reading into them now, but of course I'd like y'all's opinion, too.

    Next, and more important: I need some advise on my roll cage for the Notch. I need at least a 4 point cage and I need it to be 1-3/4" with a .120 or greater wall thickness if it's going to be mild steel. I've looked at a couple different places and I'm leaning toward an All Star Performance kit or ordering from Auto Weld Chassis out of Pennsylvania. Both kits look to be similar in price, but I'd pay a little extra for the Auto Weld kit if they can match what I need. I might call tomorrow and see what they say.
    My question is, would there be someone here in Indy that I could call, say I have an 85 Mustang and need a 4 point cage that meets NASA specs, have them bend it up for me, and then I install it? I'd really like to keep the price under $500. Both kits I just mentioned are under $300 before shipping, so I don't *think* that I'm too far off base.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

    I’d be shocked if you could have a 4-point installed for less than $1,000 but I’m curious to see what the other guys say.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    I’d be shocked if you could have a 4-point installed for less than $1,000 but I’m curious to see what the other guys say.
    I'm hoping that since I'll be doing the installation, I can cut way down on cost.
    All I need is a competent shop that can get the parts bent up and ready to go for me.

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    churchmouse

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    Two items of business: turbo 400 is out. I want a trans with OD and lockup. At the very least, lockup. I can handle no OD as long as I can run a (low? high?) gear, like a 2.72 or something. But I don't think I can live without OD. My current train of thought is a 700r4. Reading into them now, but of course I'd like y'all's opinion, too.

    Next, and more important: I need some advise on my roll cage for the Notch. I need at least a 4 point cage and I need it to be 1-3/4" with a .120 or greater wall thickness if it's going to be mild steel. I've looked at a couple different places and I'm leaning toward an All Star Performance kit or ordering from Auto Weld Chassis out of Pennsylvania. Both kits look to be similar in price, but I'd pay a little extra for the Auto Weld kit if they can match what I need. I might call tomorrow and see what they say.
    My question is, would there be someone here in Indy that I could call, say I have an 85 Mustang and need a 4 point cage that meets NASA specs, have them bend it up for me, and then I install it? I'd really like to keep the price under $500. Both kits I just mentioned are under $300 before shipping, so I don't *think* that I'm too far off base.

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    Od transmissions.
    What will this be behind. 700R4 has serious limitations due to internal design limitations. We ran 700's in my sons street cars with most all the upgrades that made sense for just 425 hp in a 3500 pound car. We went through a few of them. 4l60's are just a few steps north of the 700's and then only certain years are worth modifying.
    4L60E's are better in some years but you will need to buy the stand alone ECM and cable to run them.
    4L80E's will take the abuse. But again will require the stand alone ECM.

    I have a fully built 4L60E for the Impala and it will be the weak link in that drive train.

    I did hear from my guys family (Impala owner). He will be in the light mid January.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Od transmissions.
    What will this be behind. 700R4 has serious limitations due to internal design limitations. We ran 700's in my sons street cars wit most all the upgrades that made sense for just 425 hp in a 3500 pond car. We went through a few of them. 4l60's are just a few steps north of the 700's and then only certain years are worth modifying.
    4L60E's are better in some years but you will need to buy the stand alone ECM and cable to run them.
    4L80E's will take the abuse. But again will require the stand alone ECM.

    I have a fully built 4L60E for the Impala and it will be the weak link in that drive train.

    I did hear from my guys family (Impala owner). He will be in the light mid January.
    Single turbo LS. Roughly 500-600hp at the wheels is my goal. It will be in my convertible, which is gonna probably weigh around 3300 pounds.
    It's going to be my daily and drag car. I'll autocross it, but just for funsies and not competition. I want to be able to control the shifting with something like a LoKar shifter. Make it feel a little more like a stick. I could do a 4l60e or 4l80e, but then I can really only manually shift 1st through 3rd. I'm willing to make that compromise if it means the car is more reliable.

    The major downside to an electronic trans is the controller. I was going to run a Microsquirt on the LS until I could afford a Holley setup. But then I'm not sure how I'd control the trans. I don't know if I can run both at the same time or not.
    I guess worst case, I will have to run a stock ecu and buy something like hp tuners to get it tuned.

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    churchmouse

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    You can run a Trans ECM stand alone. It connects right to the trans and power source.
    You do not really want to use OD as a race gear either. 1/2/3 and done for a drag race. Gear he car accordingly.
    People to often try and build 1 package to do all things. Just not easy to do if you even can on a budget.

    The drive train we have for the Impala is an honest 500+ ponys NA with a buck fifty on the button. I am unsure as to the reliability of the 4L60 just NA and no spray. It will be fine as long as it is respected. But when you put something like this together for a madman all bets are off. He is one that wants it all on a budget. Just not running any power adder with a stock OD trans.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    You can run a Trans ECM stand alone. It connects right to the trans and power source.
    You do not really want to use OD as a race gear either. 1/2/3 and done for a drag race. Gear he car accordingly.
    People to often try and build 1 package to do all things. Just not easy to do if you even can on a budget.

    The drive train we have for the Impala is an honest 500+ ponys NA with a buck fifty on the button. I am unsure as to the reliability of the 4L60 just NA and no spray. It will be fine as long as it is respected. But when you put something like this together for a madman all bets are off. He is one that wants it all on a budget. Just not running any power adder with a stock OD trans.
    Sounds like I probably should stick with something like a 4l80e. Manually shift 1-3 like you said, and then cruise otherwise.

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    churchmouse

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    Sounds like I probably should stick with something like a 4l80e. Manually shift 1-3 like you said, and then cruise otherwise.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

    That would keep it alive. If you gear it right that should be ample.
    Also the right converter. You will need one with the balloon plate.
    Get the right hard parts installed and have some fun.

    It costs extra for that .75 OD.....:):
     

    jeffsqartan

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    That would keep it alive. If you gear it right that should be ample.
    Also the right converter. You will need one with the balloon plate.
    Get the right hard parts installed and have some fun.

    It costs extra for that .75 OD.....:):
    Worth it since my plans are daily use and Drag Week.

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    jeffsqartan

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    There is a shop on the south side that does stellar work. I am having a (oldwise) brain fart but Tchicken knows them as well.
    Word on that cooler. I'm thinking about starting with a cooler identical to the one on my truck. If it can keep my diesel trans cool, it should be able to do the same for a lightweight car, right?

    Mr. Thunderchicken, you are requested in the shop. Please report immediately.

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    churchmouse

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    Word on that cooler. I'm thinking about starting with a cooler identical to the one on my truck. If it can keep my diesel trans cool, it should be able to do the same for a lightweight car, right?

    Mr. Thunderchicken, you are requested in the shop. Please report immediately.

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    Yes it should. And using a trans temp gauge on a power adder drive train is never a bad idea.
     
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