The Official 3d Printing thread

[RobbyMaQ]

Get this one Robby:
Zyltech 12V 30A 360W power supply PSU for 3D Printer CNC Arduino Reprap etc. | eBay

It is more then heavy enough for the job and the price is right. It should have the right foot print for any brackets you might get with the printer. I have used these with all the printers and many other projects. I just got 2 more in today.

My velcro came yesterday. But I am to sore to drag out the table saw to deal with it the panels.

I went ahead and ordered that psu. Pretty cheap. Though about grabbing one out of our old server, but figured for that price I'd have much less reading to do.
Printer is supposed to arrive tomorrow... but my extra tnuts won't get here for another week or two, so nothing is going to happen anytime quick.
Got some glass, some pla & abs, some spare loom.

I gather I will be modding the z axis guides and hot end (spool feeder) based on much of what I am reading. But again, I don't expect much out of the gate. Sorta the point of it all. Figure out where all the weak points are so i know what too look for later on.

 

[BroodXI]

i can print the ninja flex just fine once i added the piece of tube to the bowden. but yea, need to slow it down with 1.75 filament. have heard 3mm ninjaflex is easier to work with but i'm not setup for that.

 

[1911ly]

I went ahead and ordered that psu. Pretty cheap. Though about grabbing one out of our old server, but figured for that price I'd have much less reading to do.
Printer is supposed to arrive tomorrow... but my extra tnuts won't get here for another week or two, so nothing is going to happen anytime quick.
Got some glass, some pla & abs, some spare loom.

I gather I will be modding the z axis guides and hot end (spool feeder) based on much of what I am reading. But again, I don't expect much out of the gate. Sorta the point of it all. Figure out where all the weak points are so i know what too look for later on.

I would think the printer would come with a simple roll dispenser of some sort. It will get you by, but you can make a pretty nice one out of some 1/2 inch PVC. I really don't like the ideal of the weight of the roll hanging off the frame of the machine if it is a small machine. Especially if it has a acrylic frame.


I'd see what the Z Axis is like before making changes. I am eager to see some pictures of it.

 

[Sailor]

Plastic fantastic. Gen 3 Magpuls will not lock up without rocking them in hard. Metal mags solid. Function test solid.

 

[1911ly]

Plastic fantastic. Gen 3 Magpuls will not lock up without rocking them in hard. Metal mags solid. Function test solid.

Excellent! What caliber are you building this as?

 

[Sailor]

223/556 even though this lower has survived 1k rounds for others, I really only consider an extended liberator.

I will test it, set it on a shelf, rinse repeat.

 

[1911ly]

I can't wait to see how it turns out. I would think the buffer tower would be the weak area if it were to have one. I am eager to see how she holds up. This is PETG if I remember right??

 

[Sailor]

This one is ABS, trying to use it up. They really reinforced that buffer area. Lots of lessons learned putting this together.

Get the correct size drill bits and run them through all the holes first.

I need some 1/4-20 machine screws for take down pins as the model beefed up that area and standard are too small.

 

[1911ly]

I have the nozzle height resolved. I was able to heat it up and push media threw the extruder on both sides np. So the next day I came back to finish it up and I having issues like crazy. It acts like both nozzles were plugged. So I pulled it apart and I did not have both bowden tubes seated all the way so I ended up with a ball that would not melt in the heat brake. So apart came the hot ends and I cleaned the plastic out. I can not get the extruder drives to push the media threw the hot ends. It acts like the nozzles are plugged, but I don't think so. Not to sure.

I have it apart a bunch of times and the PTFE tubing is getting shorter and shorter. It does not like to release from the connectors without a lot of pulling. I might have just got crap tubing? crappy connectors?? Not to sure. But I ordered some new tubng and I am going to set it up in the table without the printer using a spare controller and power supply and see if I can figure out what is going on with it. Some of it could just be me not being on my A game from having surgery. I am still not up to par yet,

But for the moment I put the single extruder back on it so I can play with. I think I am going to redo the hotend base and Need to use this printer to print that base. And it is going to be 3-4 days before the tubing comes in, so I can still us it like it is. I am having fun anyway!

 

[Sailor]

I loaned out an Arrow dual band solid jpole years ago. Got it back recently with comments that it is not usable SWR is all over the place. I said its just metal and an connector there is nothing to break. Sure enough SWR of 5-7 wtf. So I take apart the driver element and jump on Arrows web page. I don't see the shoulder washer in place. Ahh hah. $6 to have it mailed to me or $25 for a pack of 50. Nope not gonna do that.

Boom Fixed.

 

[1911ly]

I loaned out an Arrow dual band solid jpole years ago. Got it back recently with comments that it is not usable SWR is all over the place. I said its just metal and an connector there is nothing to break. Sure enough SWR of 5-7 wtf. So I take apart the driver element and jump on Arrows web page. I don't see the shoulder washer in place. Ahh hah. $6 to have it mailed to me or $25 for a pack of 50. Nope not gonna do that.

Boom Fixed.

Sweet! That's what having a printer is all about!

I figured out the issue with the hot ends. Or I am pretty sure anyway. I put the hot ends on the regular extruder to test it, The media won't push threw the heat break without a ton of force. The Makerfarm heat breaks are different. So I reamed one out and it worked great. I broke a bit off in the second one and I dropped one in the floor to never be found again except for shortly after the new ones come in. Grr.. So, still back to wait on parts coming in.

 

[BroodXI]

don't forget to polish the inside of the heat break after reaming it. You don't want to put it back together only to have to take it apart to polish it.

 

[1911ly]

don't forget to polish the inside of the heat break after reaming it. You don't want to put it back together only to have to take it apart to polish it.

I did it the best I could. I use the broke drill bit turn around backwards on the press and use a little valve lapping compound to try to smooth out any burs but I am sure it is not flawless. I really need to buy the right reamer and do it right. We will see how this works out.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

 

[1911ly]

Let the fun begin!! You are going to have fun with that. Keep us updated. And if you have any questions just yell.

 

[Ericpwp]

Does this mark the beginning of the "Official 3d Printer thread"?

 

[1911ly]

Does this mark the beginning of the "Official 3d Printer thread"?

You'd think so!

 

[RobbyMaQ]

nope. still just chatter. partly cuz I keep muddying it up.
I got my acrylic parts setup for cnc routing in 3/16" aluminum.

 

[1911ly]

nope. still just chatter. partly cuz I keep muddying it up.
I got my acrylic parts setup for cnc routing in 3/16" aluminum.

Sweet, but pics or it didn't happen....

As for muddying up the thread, we can'tt help that you haven't gotten serious about this stuff....

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I didn't get them cut yet, just scanned/traced the parts. 12" x 24" sheet 3/16" Aluminum to replace the 4mm acrylic parts that came with it