starting up reloading

[peberly400]

Hey guys, been awhile since I have posted. I'm going to be starting up reloading here the 28th. I want to make sure I'm good and ready. So far I have all the brass tumbled and sperated. I will be picking up a lee classic turret press with a .40 die. What else will I need. I have ordered the following

Powder, primers, bullets,and a scale. What else will I be needing or would you recomend for me. Appreciate the help.

Also, is there anyway to get my brass shiney? I am using old walnut shells that probably needs changed and I'm putting a capful of nu-polish with it? Any real difference between walnut and corn media?

 

[PistolBob]

You don't need shiny brass, you need clean brass. Don't lose any sleep over the shine. You need some reloading blocks to hold the rounds as you build them. What kind of scale did you get? Do you understand how to measure in grains?

You're gonna love it. Just pay attention to what you're doing. I don't even have the radio on when I am reloading.

 

[HamsterStyle]

Manuals!!! At least 2. Read them before you start.

 

[XtremeVel]

must have in addition to what you already mention before starting

Loading manual
Couple extra plastic square rachets for that LCT...
Powder measure ( auto disc or pro... IMO, the pro is worth the extra money)
calipers
Cartridge gauge or actual barrel out of firearm you are loading for... ( Actually if a new load or bullet profile, I check the finished round in BOTH. )

optional

Lee hand held primer ( great if you want a break to get away from the bench. )
Appropiate shell holder for hand primer ( won't be same as press)
Loading tray
MTM 50 or 100 rd ammo boxes (100 rd'ers stack nicely in ammo can)
Cheap funnel to return unused powder back to container.

 

[SSGSAD]

There is a "sticky" on the forum, with LOTS of good info... Also, you have lots of reloaders, on here with LOTS of experience.... DON"T be afraid to ask .... It is better to ask, than to blow up a gun, or injure yourself ....

 

[Fishersjohn48]

Bullet puller. You will make mistakes. I always dry run without powder or primer when setting up dies to check seating depth and crimp and this allows me to reuse the bullet and brass.

 

[peberly400]

I do have several of the 100 round pistol plastic ammo containers. What manuals do you guys suggest for a first timer? And will a harbor freights caliper work, or better to not cheap out? And I know I don't need shiney brass, but if I am already tumbling I might as well make pretty lol

 

[XtremeVel]

For manuals, I like the Lyman #49 and Lee's modern reloading. Next time you go to your LGS , check to see if they have any of the free manuals some of the powder manufactures put out. While they might not be the most complete, they do come in handy for that second or third opinion...

While there is nothing wrong with the Speer, Hornady, Sierra, ect manuals, unless you are planning on primarily using their bullets, your money would probably be better spent on upgrading to a better set of calipers.

 

[zenbruno]

The Lyman reloading manuals are well-regarded. And you might try to pick up a reloading pamphlet specific to the powder you'll be using.

And yes, check the sticky thread devoted to this very topic. Take your time and make sure that you understand what you're doing and why you're doing it at each step of the reloading process. Enjoy it!


Edit:

Haha, wise minds must think alike...

 

[PistolBob]

Great sources for FREE reloading data:

Hodgdon Powders

Accurate Powders Load Data

IMR Powders Reloading Data

Loads of Reloading Data

Good luck and have fun.

I also like to use these: Max Cartridge Gauges

Always wear eye protection.

 

[peberly400]

Thanks for alll the info guys, really appreciate it!!! While im already being a noob, I figured I would go ahead and ask another question.

Do you have to trim every case, or is it just for extreme accuracy? I did not think that a case could stretch that much to where it would cause a problem.

 

[Fishersjohn48]

You do not need to trim your .40 cases. It is not critical in the pistol calibers. Rifle calibers are a different story. Those that are better versed on rifle reloading can speak to the importance of trimming.

One other thing that is important to me is lots of light in my work area. I have a 3' shop light over the bench and use a small clamp on led light to shine directly into the cases as I am filling them to insure that they are being properly charged.

 

[peberly400]

I do have a lot of lighting in my garage! I built a little corner kinda dedicated to reloading. Also,I remember someone mentioning something specific to glocks and brass. Along the lines of the brass can only be reused in glocks.

 

[XtremeVel]

Also,I remember someone mentioning something specific to glocks and brass. Along the lines of the brass can only be reused in glocks.

SOME Glock barrels in SOME calibers did have chambers that both were over sized and/or not supported the best. .40 S&W was (1) caliber. I'm not sure how common this was and also if the newer models still have this issue.

In worst case and you have one of these barrels, you have a few options... First and most costly would be to buy an aftermarket barrel. Eventually, this would pay for itself because it would not only eliminate the " Glock bulge", but would also allow much cheaper shooting by allowing the use of lead bullets...

Another option would be to send the entire case THROUGH a sizing die, rather than just running it up till your shell holder makes contact with the bottom of your die. Lee makes the kit for this and needs to be used combined with their FCD ( factory crimp die ).

Lastly, like you mentioned, you MIGHT get away just normally sizing your case and firing it in the same barrel. I had a couple older gen 3's G22's and both would " Glock " the brass. So much that a completed round would not drop into the case gauge, but would drop into the over sized chamber. Even though they functioned fine in the same Glocks, it always ate away in the back of my mind knowing if I ever grabbed that ammo for another gun, it would not fully chamber...

So, in response to your comment about brass shot out of Glocks should only be loaded again for Glocks would definately NOT be true if you choose the route of option (1) or (2)... if you decide to go route (3), then your comment could possibly be true, depending on the severity of how " Glocked " your case is and the dimensions of the non Glock pistol's chamber...

 

[peberly400]

Is there really any real way to tell if its "glocked"? Most all of my .40s are from my glock lol. The brass does not look irregular in any other way then what I would precieve as normal .

And do I need to lube the cases if I'm using carbide dies?

 

[XtremeVel]

Is there really any real way to tell if its "glocked"? Most all of my .40s are from my glock lol. The brass does not look irregular in any other way then what I would precieve as normal .

And do I need to lube the cases if I'm using carbide dies?

No need for lube with carbide dies...

Good chance your brass isn't " Glocked ".

Visually inspect for a bulge or a " smiley " down by the web... If it's severe, you will see it very easily... If it's subtle, you won't know till you drop it into a cartridge gauge after you resize... A regularly ( not resized using bulge buster ) resized case should drop into the cartridge gauge if it's not bulged. Better to find out at this point rather than after the round is completely loaded.

Another way to check is use calipers. Not only check for expansion toward the web, but also caliper to check for roundness...

Don't sweat this so much... It's something you will see right away after you resize your first case ( 1st step in process) when you go to drop it into the cartridge gauge.

 

[XtremeVel]

To add to the above... This would be $15.00 very well spent ! Especially since you are loading .40 S&W for a platform known to possibly bulge brass...

Click here: Lyman Max Cartridge Gage 40 S&W

There are (2) ways I check a finished round. First is that gauge. Second is dropping it into the chamber and making sure the back of the case seats flush or just below the top of the hood.

I use both methods because I have ran into a few occasions where the case gauge shows " good " to find out my particular choice of bullet or OAL slams into the rifling before slide fully goes into battery... A couple examples I have ran into this is when using a rather unique profile bullet and also have seen it in some so called " short chambered " barrels... Always remember, not all chambers are created equal... SOME after market barrels for the Glock are especially known for this... There are reasons I feel using your barrel as a gauge is a MUST when using a new bullet profile or working up a new load.

A example for why I feel a catridge gauge is a must is exactly in your case with the Glock. There is a possibility your case might be bulged but still drop in your chamber fine... The gauge will be the tool that will catch this potential issue in case you ever wanted to fire that particular round in another gun other than the Glock... Not that it would be an issue in the Glock, but it could be in another tighter chambered pistol...

 

[Spike_351]

I reload a lot of 40. With no issues, however I have been warned about loading for a glock to becareful when charging near max (especially with Tite group) but I can't testify to its truthfulness seeing as how I havent reloaded for glock, but it is something to think about and maybe ask around about.

 

[Leo]

.40 brass is so cheap and easy to find that I do not even bother to re use brass with the pregnant "gliock buldge" down by the rim. I pitch them and spend my time reloading brass that was used in a supported chamber pistol. Why take a chance with a misfunction/mishap to reuse a two cent piece of brass? All of the spent brass from my .40 S&W chambered pistols will still drop in the chamber after firing even before resizing. Good Luck

 

[Iroquois]

Since you asked for advice, I will give what I think is the best advice for a noob. If that press
has an auto advance, disconnect it for now. Learn to perform each step of the process till
you can spot mistakes quickly. As an example add powder to each case and place them in
a loading tray. When it's full hold them under a light and compare volumes of all the cases.
If any look different check them on a scale. Has your powder dispenser adjustment moved?
Did you double load any. All these tips are in any good loading manual...you should own at
least two. If you haven't studied the how to part (not just skimmed over) you're not even ready
to set up the equipment. Better yet, take lessons. That's something unheard of when I started.
I'm certain lessons from an experienced reloaded are worth twice the cost of tuition.
Good luck and be safe...