Need help with 9mm LRN

[swsws1]

I bought a lee six cavity 9mm 124gr LRN mold but can't seem to find load data for that projectile. I could also use a seating depth measurement also. I've seated a couple to 1.125 because honestly it just looked good and it's within spec. I have unique powder and winchester primers. Any pointers would be great. If all else fails I'll seat to 1.125 and start working up a load beginning a little bit under the suggested starting load until I find something that hits good. Thanks!

 

[billybob44]

Go all the way...

If this: Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 356-125-2R 9mm Luger 38 Super 380 ACP (356

is the mold that you have, then yes, you have a good start into 9MM casting. @ 750 degree pot temp, you will have great bullets after two or three blocks full.

I have went to this system:Powder Coat Primer
to complete a QUALITY projectile that can be ran @ 1100 fps with NO leading, and a complete and accurate load.
I size these to .357" after PC for the best accuracy in my Glocks and CZ's.

The 1.125" OAL will work on Glock barrels, others NOT so much..Use your barrel, of YOUR handgun, to "Plunk" test for correct OAL..

If you have to seat deeper then back off of your powder charge to avoid pressure spikes.

You will find that the Powder Coat will polish the barrel to a "Mirror Finish"...Bill.

 

[Wolfhound]

^^^^^^^^^^^This

Really good advice. I use that same Lee 6 cavity mold and I also powdercoat.

 

[swsws1]

What do you seat your bullets to?

 

[swsws1]

Why will this length work in glocks and cz's. I chambered the test round (no powder or primer) in my 9mm shield and g17 then confirmed the OAL and it didn't change.

 

[billybob44]

Different Lengths...

What do you seat your bullets to?

For my Glocks, I seat this projectile to 1.123". For my CZ's, I seat to 1.080"-1.085".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s80P2j02YnM

^^^This is how you should check your OAL...Bill.

 

[swsws1]

So I kept running a test cartridge through the seating die and plunking it into my shield barrel until the plunk test worked as in the video. Then I went just a hair lower as that seemed like the safe course of action for reliability and saftey. OAL is now1.083.

 

[Cynical]

If this: Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 356-125-2R 9mm Luger 38 Super 380 ACP (356

is the mold that you have, then yes, you have a good start into 9MM casting. @ 750 degree pot temp, you will have great bullets after two or three blocks full.

I have went to this system:Powder Coat Primer
to complete a QUALITY projectile that can be ran @ 1100 fps with NO leading, and a complete and accurate load.
I size these to .357" after PC for the best accuracy in my Glocks and CZ's.

The 1.125" OAL will work on Glock barrels, others NOT so much..Use your barrel, of YOUR handgun, to "Plunk" test for correct OAL..

If you have to seat deeper then back off of your powder charge to avoid pressure spikes.

You will find that the Powder Coat will polish the barrel to a "Mirror Finish"...Bill.

Pretty much everything covered here. I use the two cavity and powder coat as well. Like Bob said in his post seat to your barrels chamber with the "plunk test" shoot em' up make more and repeat. Have fun.

 

[noylj]

If you think you need special load data for specific cast bullets, you might want to re-read your manuals.
You start at the start load and work up because their max load may be over- or under-max in your gun.
Your COL is based on YOUR gun, so YOU determine what that is--before you start loading.
Pressure spiked are not COL related, they are charge and powder related.
If you have to decrease the COL, then you started wrong. You have to go back to the starting load (or, at least, reduce 2% and start from there).
All cast bullets of a given weight and caliber use the same load data. I look at several sources and start at the lowest start load.
There are no short-cuts and no one can tell you what load or COL is best for your gun with ANY bullet.
If it helps, here is my little write-up:
Per Ramshot:
"SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH “COL”
It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only.
The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination.
This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as
1) magazine length (space),
2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel,
3) ogive or profile of the projectile and
4) position of cannelure or crimp groove.
• Always begin loading at the minimum "Start Load".
• Increase in 2% increments towards the Maximum Load.
• Watch for signs of excessive pressure.
• Never exceed the Maximum Load."

Your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun.
Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel).
Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood. After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber.
You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long
2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

 

[swsws1]

Wow! Thanks guys.