making polyurethane shine?

[N_K_1984]

I have a walnut gun stock that has a polyurethane finish on it. the finish is good, nice, deep, and shiney, but could use some sanding to smooth it out what little minor imperfections it has (very small bubbles, etc).

I know if I sand it, it will dull the finish. Is there a way to sand it smooth then easily retsore the shine? Can it be buffed? polished? oil? or do I just have to put a new coat of poly on it?

 

[DemolitionMan]

You could try buffing; it should at least improve the shine of the existing finish...but it won't get rid of imperfections. To do that I think you're going to need one more coat of poly.

I'd recommend using 220 grit (or finer) sandpaper to gently dry sand the finish and get rid of those bubbles. Then I would lightly sand with synthetic steel wool (not real steel wool!), being careful not to sand through the existing finish. This will level out the finish and prep it for the final coat. Use a tack cloth to wipe everything down, and then apply a final coat of polyurethane.

It will take some time but I think you'll be happier with the final result.

 

[N_K_1984]

DemolitionMan: In your opinion, what would you use to apply the poly?

I used a sponge brush originally. I'm pretty sure this is what caused my bubbles.

Back story: This is my first wooden stock I've ever finished on my own, I want it to be as perfect as I can get it. Being a bit of a perfectionist, I want to smooth away all the tiny imperfections. Right now, the shine i have is beautiful, but the smoothness is my main concern. I really want to it smooth and shiney. Best of both worlds!

I have now heard the synthetic steel wool advice twice. I have dry sanded several times with very fine paper, and put several coats of poly on. It's been a 3 day process. I'm going for a factory look. I will post pics later on my progress.

Any other tips?

 

[DemolitionMan]

DemolitionMan: In your opinion, what would you use to apply the poly?

I used a sponge brush originally. I'm pretty sure this is what caused my bubbles.

I use sponge brushes too, and have had bubble issues sometimes. There are a few things that can cause them:

1) Dust is your enemy. Make sure you've thoroughly wiped down the wood with a tack cloth, and that you're in as dust free an environment as possible.

2) Take your time. Usually when I'm making bubbles it's because I'm going too fast with the brush. The nice thing about poly is it will tend to level itself out, but if you go too fast you can make bubbles.

3) Thin to win. Several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats and less prone to bubbling.

4) Good quality brushes. I know, they're sponge brushes and therefore the tendency is to buy the ten cent versions, but like anything else better tools get better results.

5) Humidity. OK, this one may just be me but it sure seems like humid days are not kind to finishing...this may be just my own superstition though.

I have heard people swear by thinning the urethane with anywhere up to 50% mineral spirits, but haven't tried that one myself.

Back story: This is my first wooden stock I've ever finished on my own, I want it to be as perfect as I can get it. Being a bit of a perfectionist, I want to smooth away all the tiny imperfections. Right now, the shine i have is beautiful, but the smoothness is my main concern. I really want to it smooth and shiney. Best of both worlds!

I have now heard the synthetic steel wool advice twice. I have dry sanded several times with very fine paper, and put several coats of poly on. It's been a 3 day process. I'm going for a factory look. I will post pics later on my progress.

I look forward to seeing the pics! I was just at the Dazzling Firearms display at the Eiteljorg and it has me all fired up to try making some custom stocks. I'm not ready to attempt engraving receivers or barrels, but wood doesn't scare me as much as metal!

 

[N_K_1984]

thanks for the info. I'm excited to get home and get back to work on the stock.

I'm ready to get the whole rifle together. i will deff post some pics of the project. I'm building a Mauser sporter chambered in .30-06.

 

[nova512]

ive used spray for my final coatings before never had an issue turned out really good.one of them 20 years still looking good.if you want an even tougher finish but it takes more time boiled linseed oil or tongue oil are super tough they just have a longer cure time.

 

[revance]

If you want a nice shiny finish and are willing to start from scratch, sand it down, give it a couple coats of boiled linseed oil, then put a topcoat of Waterlox on it. Use a rag to apply the boiled linseed oil, wait a day, apply another coat. Then use a rag to apply the Waterlox (a few coats). The Waterlox will finish shiny and can be buffed to get small specks that might have dried onto it off.

The linseed oil will get you a much deeper finish than poly and the Waterlox will be far superior too.

 

[pinshooter45]

Try Birchwood Casey Tru-oil

First I'd try different grades of steel wool, or if you feel the need to sand, finish with steel wool. The Tru-oil is a combination of linseed oil and something like varnish Can't remember. But I used it to refinish the stock on my RC Mauser loved what it did for that 60yr old piece of wood! I applied it with my fingers like the instructions said...nothing like A HAND RUBBED FINNISH!

 

[hps]

apply-dry-steel wool
apply-dry-steel wool
apply-dry-steel wool
apply-dry-steel wool
makes it shine !!!!!!!

 

[jdude]

A couple of days ago I saw a post on I think Rimfirecentral.com about using tru-oil and armor all car finish, I know it sounds weird but the results were incredible. The process involved spraying on a light coat of armor all then rubbing tru-oil on with your fingers and repeating the process several times. the armor all has a chemical that works with the tru-oil and acts like a hardener.

 

[walt o]

photosI use True oil when i build muzzle loaders and hand grips .Apply true oil with finger tips 1st coat will dry in about 3-4 hrs then buff off the shin with 4-o steel wool ,following coats about every 2-3 hrs , wipe shine off every coat .After about 6 coats sand with 600 wet or dry paper lightly,use mineral oil as a lubricant , more coats light no steel wool between , Light steel wool after letting dry about a day, then buff with polishing compound. You will have a finish that is in the wood not on the wood , Scratches can be touched up with a light coat of true oil. Just added photos to my album to show true oil grips

 

[N_K_1984]

So I went and got my supplies last night. I should be game to start on the final sanding and clearing this evening. I'll post pics after. thanks everyone for the advice.

I deffinitely want to try the true-oil on my next project. I'll do all I can to broaden my skills.

Thanks again INGOers!

 

[N_K_1984]

I finished my Boyds' stock tonight after 5 coats of poly, multiple dry sanding and smoothing and 2 coats of spray poly, she's smooth and shiney. I dig it.

I will keep INGO posted as I continue my build progress...

 

[redneckmedic]

I am doing the same thing right now for a buddy's stock. I started at 400 grit wet sand paper and ended at 800. Then between coats I used only 800. The last two coats I will use 0000 steel wool then buff to shine.

 

[djl02]

I am doing the same thing right now for a buddy's stock. I started at 400 grit wet sand paper and ended at 800. Then between coats I used only 800. The last two coats I will use 0000 steel wool then buff to shine.

Thats the way we use to get dirt out of the finish on table tops , when i use to work at Kellers Furniture. Buff with a fine rubbing compound. I would try this before I stripped it and started over. 220 might leave sanding marks.

 

[DemolitionMan]

I finished my Boyds' stock tonight after 5 coats of poly, multiple dry sanding and smoothing and 2 coats of spray poly, she's smooth and shiney. I dig it.

I will keep INGO posted as I continue my build progress...

Very nice! It's hard sometimes to get a camera to show off the shine, but especially in that last photo you can get a feel for the depth of it. Well done.

 

[nova512]

after seeing that stock i just might have to do my 17vs like that but ill be using my buffing wheel with dry base buffing compound.

 

[N_K_1984]

Thanks guys! I'm glad I might have inspired some of you. Rock on. So yeah, recap: 5 coats of brushed on poly with several times sanding between coats, I sanded it again last yesterday, starting with a 250 grit, stepping all the way down to a 1600 grit, then finally buffed it synthetic steel wool. Then I sprayed on 2 coats of poly, and as you can see, it came out beautifully! It should be a beautiful rifle when i'm done.

Unfinished Boyds' thumbhole stock - $95 shipped

Assorted fine grit wood working sand paper - $16

Can of wood finish clear polyurethane - $20

Stir stick - $.10

2 high grade sponge brushes - $2.60

Another ssorted fine grit wood working sand paper - $16

1 sheet of 1600 grit mirror fine sand paper - $1.16

1 spray can of identical brand of polyurethane - $10

The pride of hand smoothing, shaping, and finishing a rifle
stock for a custom rifle build - Priceless

There are some things money can't buy, for everything else, there's Mastercard.

Nevermind, I used my Visa Debit card....?