Long range bolt gun and caliber: starter to built performer

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  • Clay

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    Aug 28, 2008
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    Ok, if you were going to build a 1000 yard bolt action rifle where would you start? I dont want to buy 3 rifles to get there, I want to buy one rifle, that I can build/upgrade over time to eventually make it 1000 yard capable.

    What rifle would you select and what caliber? OR is this even possible with out basically replacing every part anyway?

    Clay
     

    barrelmaker_2002

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    OR is this even possible with out basically replacing every part anyway?

    Clay

    Every part? No. If you start with a decent rifle (like a Remington 700, Savage, Sako, Tika or FN), the action would likely not need to be replaced. Once you start building it up though, just about everything else will be replaced, especially the stock, barrel and trigger.

    Well maybe not the trigger.....

    Never mind you could spend as much on optics as you do for some/most of the upgrades.

    Also, how much do you want to spend for the basic rifle and scope?
     

    Clay

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    How much energy do you need to deliver?

    well, Ill be honest, I dont know much about bullet energy and what it means. I know what engery is, its forms, etc etc, but when it comes to bullet energy I just haven't had much (if any) experience. I know I want more energy than required to put some holes in paper, probably enough energy to translate to sufficient knock down power, but I dont need a 50 BMG (at least I dont think I do).

    What is your accuracy requirement?

    Accuracy would be a man sized target, or maybe 1 MOA @ 100 yards / 10 MOA @ 1000 yards?

    I guess I should say I would LOVE to have a rifle that could shoot 1000 yards, but Im not going to start building it today! I would like to put myself into a position to start looking for the base rifle, and would like to decide on a caliber so maybe in the next few months I can locate that.
     

    fireball168

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    well, Ill be honest, I dont know much about bullet energy and what it means.

    .... maybe 1 MOA @ 100 yards / 10 MOA @ 1000 yards?

    Let me restate - do you need enough energy to kill something, or just knock holes in paper?

    Do you want something to learn how to shoot with while you're assembling parts - or would you be content with a box of parts you're collecting until it can be put together?
     

    dave29

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    I have been wondering the same thing lately.....

    Would a Browning A-bolt in 7mm Rem mag, stainless steel barrel, and a synthetic stock be a good starter?
     

    Clay

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    Ok, well, I have NO plans to go off and kill anything at this range, but what good would a rifle be if it couldnt do so? So yes, the ability to kill something would be nice!

    Ideally, being able to shoot would be nice, but its not a requirement.
     

    42769vette

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    well, Ill be honest, I dont know much about bullet energy and what it means. I know what engery is, its forms, etc etc, but when it comes to bullet energy I just haven't had much (if any) experience. I know I want more energy than required to put some holes in paper, probably enough energy to translate to sufficient knock down power, but I dont need a 50 BMG (at least I dont think I do).



    Accuracy would be a man sized target, or maybe 1 MOA @ 100 yards / 10 MOA @ 1000 yards?

    I guess I should say I would LOVE to have a rifle that could shoot 1000 yards, but Im not going to start building it today! I would like to put myself into a position to start looking for the base rifle, and would like to decide on a caliber so maybe in the next few months I can locate that.


    10 moa at 1000 yards is 100 inches (actually a lilttle over) i think you ment 10 inches not 10 moa.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Accuracy would be a man sized target, or maybe 1 MOA @ 100 yards / 10 MOA @ 1000 yards?

    10 moa at 1000 yards is 100 inches (actually a lilttle over) i think you ment 10 inches not 10 moa.

    correct.... 1 moa is 1.047 inches at 100 yards.... round that off to 1 inch...

    1 moa at 200 is 2 inches
    1 moa at 300 is 3 inches
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    1 moa at 1000 yards is 10 inches, but is very tough.... the averave human is 18 inches shoulder to shoulder, so 2 moa is a pretty solid requirement at that distance.... once you start shooting that far wind and range estimation are WAY more important.... ammo selection (ie reloading) is also a huge input.... as are optics...

    as for caliber... .308 .243 .260 300 WM 7mm WSSM are all some great rounds that wont beat the shoulder too much (minus the WM)
    PM me for my phone number i would love to talk to you about everything involved and its WAY to much to type but i love to talk about it.... or look up my old thread titled So you want to shoot long range?
     

    42769vette

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    if you do find the perfect rifle id be interested in hearing what you get because im in the same boat.

    ive done countless hours of research into what would be a good begginning 1000 yd rifle and for the money ive decided to go with a savage 12 f class with super sniper optics. you can do alot better than super sniper optics but it will cost you. as far as caliber the savage comes in 6.5x284 and 6mm bbr. i cant decide between the 2. i like the 6.5 ballistics better but i like the 6mm barrel life better.

    if i ever save enough money ill have one of the 2
     

    IndyGunworks

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    thats a tuff choice between the two.... i would settle it based on BC's alone.... velocities between the two are not probably a whole lot differant although they probably have totally differant flight characteristics.... i believe bullet selection will be way bigger with the 6mm
     

    fireball168

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    It is hard to beat a fast twist 6 BR for a variety of reasons.

    Projectile choices, barrel life, accuracy potential, low recoil, relatively inexpensive outstanding quality off the shelf brass, low powder charges, small rifle primers, etc.

    The only downfall is velocity/energy on target.

    If you're truly going to be shooting at 1000 enough to make a dedicated rifle for it, and don't mind screwing barrels on every 1500-2000 rounds, there are a bevy of appropriate chamberings.

    Look at the winning equipment lists here and draw your own conclusions on what is winning (it isn't the BR - although a few placed and some variants of it are in the running).

    Choose World Open Results/Standings


    I guess it all comes down to how comfortable you are in reloading, and what your limit is - are you willing to put up with neck turning cases to meet your accuracy goal? How much recoil are you willing to deal with? How much money do you want to spend on the projectiles and brass?

    Everything is a trade off - as much fun as the 6.5-284's are, I can't bring myself to ever own another just for barrel life alone.

    If I did a long action rifle again, I think I'd do a 280 Ackley using the formed Nosler brass. Plenty of case capacity, and great projectile availability, although on the pricey side. I can't get excited about anything on the WSM case - if I'm going to be stuck using a long action give me a RUM case.

    If this is something that may be shot to 1000 a couple of times a year, and the rest at reduced ranges - save yourself some aggravation and buy a 308.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Very well said.... esp the part about the 280 ackley improved..... actually came across an article that made me consider getting a barrel with that chambering and a set of go/no go guages for my deer gun when out of season.... if it does what my FN can do, then i might just sell the FN and keep the 280 for LR.... of course i would have to have a .308 barrel as well for SHTF

    repped for your post as well.... everytime you post i either learn something or understand something just alittle bit better.... in fact i am going to start checking to see if you are online before i even try to post about this stuff....
     

    Litlratt

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    Without running the numbers, I'm guessing the 6.5/284 is the better performer at 1k.
    It is also the most prominent at the 1000 yard prone matches at Atterbury.
     
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