Help me pick a 9mm load

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  • Guns&engines

    Plinker
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    Dec 26, 2021
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    This is going to be long, so bear with me if you will as I explain my story. I'm fairly new to reading, just got into it about 2 years ago and with the component shortages during this time I haven't loaded or shot nearly as much as I'd like.

    I started with 9mm, 115 fmj, and cfe pistol powder. The starting loads functioned perfectly in my sig p938 with satisfactory accuracy, so I stopped there. I moved on to perfecting a load for my 308 which led me to get a chronograph.

    Now I'm back to playing with the 9mm after I managed to get 1000 124gr berry's hybrid hollow points and some more small pistol primers. However now that I have chronographed my 9mm loads, I'm struggling to decide on what load is appropriate.

    I put some factory loads over my chronograph to see how my guns compare to the box velocities. My p938 (3" barrel) shoots factory ammo rated at 1150fps at about 1000fps. That gives me a point of reference for working up my loads. My longer barrel guns give more velocity as expected, but I'm focusing on a load for the sig.

    With the 124's the starting loads function perfectly in my gun just like the 115's did. However I get very smokey cases, which per my understanding means they are not expanding the case to seal in the chamber, meaning I can go up in powder load. The starting loads also only give me an average velocity of 870fps, much lower than factory loads.

    I started stepping up in powder charge 0.2gr at a time and really digging in to the load data in all my references. Are factory loads usually max loadings? My loading manuals list very few loads that achieve those factory velocities even at max load! I'm now up to 5.4gr of cfe pistol under those 124's, only .1gr under max load. That's about as far as I feel comfortable pushing it with my limited reloading experience. I'm still getting smokey cases and my velocity is still less than factory loads out of my gun. No overpressure signs, but I don't think those are reliable in light pistol loads like 9mm anyway.

    Everything I've loaded has been more consistent and more accurate than factory loads with nothing standing out as particularly better than the rest. Given all of this, I'm now lost as to deciding on a load. What are your recommendations? Should I try to load higher to match factory load velocity in my gun? Should I go back to start loads since they function fine in my gun and just be happy with the powder savings? Somewhere in between?
     

    Xterminator

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    Mar 11, 2018
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    I've never ran CFE pistol powder. But if your pistol runs/functions with what you got now then don't worry about making 1000 fps.(factory load). You said you were getting good results. Using plated bullets , fmj - 3"barrel won't build pressure up as much as coated bullets. I've never put that much powder (5.4) in a 9m case. I use V.V. 320, tight group, win 231& green dot & usually run 3.2- 3.8 on any of these powders. If you lower the powder micro gun won't recoil as hard & easier to control on follow up shots. You said your shot groups are good, I'd call it good. Keep working & I'm sure you'll get good results.
     

    DadSmith

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    Oct 21, 2018
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    This is going to be long, so bear with me if you will as I explain my story. I'm fairly new to reading, just got into it about 2 years ago and with the component shortages during this time I haven't loaded or shot nearly as much as I'd like.

    I started with 9mm, 115 fmj, and cfe pistol powder. The starting loads functioned perfectly in my sig p938 with satisfactory accuracy, so I stopped there. I moved on to perfecting a load for my 308 which led me to get a chronograph.

    Now I'm back to playing with the 9mm after I managed to get 1000 124gr berry's hybrid hollow points and some more small pistol primers. However now that I have chronographed my 9mm loads, I'm struggling to decide on what load is appropriate.

    I put some factory loads over my chronograph to see how my guns compare to the box velocities. My p938 (3" barrel) shoots factory ammo rated at 1150fps at about 1000fps. That gives me a point of reference for working up my loads. My longer barrel guns give more velocity as expected, but I'm focusing on a load for the sig.

    With the 124's the starting loads function perfectly in my gun just like the 115's did. However I get very smokey cases, which per my understanding means they are not expanding the case to seal in the chamber, meaning I can go up in powder load. The starting loads also only give me an average velocity of 870fps, much lower than factory loads.

    I started stepping up in powder charge 0.2gr at a time and really digging in to the load data in all my references. Are factory loads usually max loadings? My loading manuals list very few loads that achieve those factory velocities even at max load! I'm now up to 5.4gr of cfe pistol under those 124's, only .1gr under max load. That's about as far as I feel comfortable pushing it with my limited reloading experience. I'm still getting smokey cases and my velocity is still less than factory loads out of my gun. No overpressure signs, but I don't think those are reliable in light pistol loads like 9mm anyway.

    Everything I've loaded has been more consistent and more accurate than factory loads with nothing standing out as particularly better than the rest. Given all of this, I'm now lost as to deciding on a load. What are your recommendations? Should I try to load higher to match factory load velocity in my gun? Should I go back to start loads since they function fine in my gun and just be happy with the powder savings? Somewhere in between?
    Screenshot_20220128-190038_Brave.jpg

    You can work your way up to 5.5gr. You have to work your way up. .2gr sounds about right.
    What I do is start .1gr above the recommended start load and make 10rds each at .2gr increments to the maximum recommended load. Watch for pressure signs each 10rds you fire stop and inspect the cases before going higher. If you find pressure signs in a lower grain load you just pull the rest. In this case you would have basically three test loads.

    The velocity posted is from a 4" barrel. So you shouldn't see much more that 25-30fps drop in your 3" barrel.

    Oh and I would choose accuracy over velocity.
     
    Last edited:

    tackdriver

    Sharpshooter
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    4   0   0
    Apr 20, 2010
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    93
    This is going to be long, so bear with me if you will as I explain my story. I'm fairly new to reading, just got into it about 2 years ago and with the component shortages during this time I haven't loaded or shot nearly as much as I'd like.

    I started with 9mm, 115 fmj, and cfe pistol powder. The starting loads functioned perfectly in my sig p938 with satisfactory accuracy, so I stopped there. I moved on to perfecting a load for my 308 which led me to get a chronograph.

    Now I'm back to playing with the 9mm after I managed to get 1000 124gr berry's hybrid hollow points and some more small pistol primers. However now that I have chronographed my 9mm loads, I'm struggling to decide on what load is appropriate.

    I put some factory loads over my chronograph to see how my guns compare to the box velocities. My p938 (3" barrel) shoots factory ammo rated at 1150fps at about 1000fps. That gives me a point of reference for working up my loads. My longer barrel guns give more velocity as expected, but I'm focusing on a load for the sig.

    With the 124's the starting loads function perfectly in my gun just like the 115's did. However I get very smokey cases, which per my understanding means they are not expanding the case to seal in the chamber, meaning I can go up in powder load. The starting loads also only give me an average velocity of 870fps, much lower than factory loads.

    I started stepping up in powder charge 0.2gr at a time and really digging in to the load data in all my references. Are factory loads usually max loadings? My loading manuals list very few loads that achieve those factory velocities even at max load! I'm now up to 5.4gr of cfe pistol under those 124's, only .1gr under max load. That's about as far as I feel comfortable pushing it with my limited reloading experience. I'm still getting smokey cases and my velocity is still less than factory loads out of my gun. No overpressure signs, but I don't think those are reliable in light pistol loads like 9mm anyway.

    Everything I've loaded has been more consistent and more accurate than factory loads with nothing standing out as particularly better than the rest. Given all of this, I'm now lost as to deciding on a load. What are your recommendations? Should I try to load higher to match factory load velocity in my gun? Should I go back to start loads since they function fine in my gun and just be happy with the powder savings? Somewhere in between?
    *** Disclaimer - this is something I did, for myself, and it worked for me. I'm just sharing my experience. I'm not suggesting that anyone should do the same, or that it will work and be safe for you or in any other equipment.*** Now that that's out of the way...

    I like the Berry's Hybrid HP 124G. They shot well out of 2 Sig P365/XL, Hi-Powers, and a Berretta 92. I settled on 4.2 or 4.4 Titegroup, and 6.7g of HS-6. I'm not positive, but I think the C.O.L. I settled on was 1.095" (I'll be happy to check and follow up with you if interested). I haven't been able to run these over a Chrono, since I've only been going to an indoor range this past year or so.

    Since I'm a tinkerer and can't help it, I've taken a 'few' hundred of these and filled the cavity with Silicone. Saw some reviews where these got excellent expansion in gel, but had problems clogging when shot through denim/drywall/etc. I know, I know, maybe a little much. However, they shoot well, and even at current prices, I've got about $0.27 each in these! I can shove a can of these back for a rainy day much easier than factory carry ammo at $1.30 each. I'm confident they will perform better than plain ball rounds.

    I ran these a little hotter, but then dialed it back to where they were accurate and felt "right".

    I know you have CFE (I haven't tried that yet), but HS-6 and TiteGroup have been some of the more available powders these days.


    Be safe. Enjoy it.
     

    Sniper 79

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    Oct 7, 2012
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    Roll with whatever is cheap and available at the time of need. I buy on black friday to last the year.
     

    Guns&engines

    Plinker
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    I think I'm going to repeat the entire load ladder but shoot it off of a sandbag to compare point of impact to my factory carry loads. Then pick the load that has the closest poi to use as my practice load. I'm still leery of using reloads as carry loads for liability reasons even though I think I trust my reloads to go bang more than factory loads.
     
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    Firehawk

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    You’re trying to duplicate a factory load. Have you shot the factory load in your Sig through the chrono to see what it does in your gun? There are so many variables and often what is published can have different real world results.

    Also, I’m pretty sure the 938 is +P rated. I was with Neil when he got his and the guy at the counter said it was, however I never looked it up to be sure. So you may have some room to budge if you’re after power/speed. If you decided to load +P make sure you mark you’re cases/ammo so it can be clearly identified and not used in other 9mm guns.

    I think you’re on the right track going after accuracy and handling over raw power.
     

    Guns&engines

    Plinker
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    My p938 (3" barrel) shoots factory ammo rated at 1150fps at about 1000fps. I also picked up a box of sig elite 124 jhp last week and tried those as well. They're rated at 1165fps and shot at 1045fps out of my 938. They are hot loads for standard pressure! Noticeably more recoil and the primers show what I would consider overpressure signs if they were my reloads.
    20220201_205747.jpg
    Sig says the p938 can handle occasional +p loads, but a regular diet of them will cause more wear and more frequent parts replacement, or something like that.

    I shot a new ladder test Sunday along with those sig rounds pictured above. My loads do not show any overpressure signs like those. But I didn't really learn anything from my testing except that 10 yards is not enough distance to determine differences in poi and accuracy out of my guns. Everything I shot grouped excellent and had similar poi, high and left.
     
    Last edited:

    bwframe

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    I just always loaded to make USPSA power factor loads with 147gr bullets. Seemed to be a good standard for practice and competition. Advertised by seasoned competition shooters as soft to shoot.

    I shoot 147gr HST's for self defense. They are not much different shooting than the handloads in my Glocks. :twocents:
     
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