generator hookup recommendation

[bigg cheese]

Picked up a Reliance Controls transfer switch this week.

3006HDK Pro/Tran | Product Details | Reliance Controls Corporation

Six circuits of generator goodness. I recommend picking one of these up. no back feed problems, and really easy to install.

On the flip-side. Don't touch your 200-amp circuit coming into your house -- it hurts.

 

[ray d]

Watch out! All those wires can hurt. Good choice as I have installed many in the last 15 years these are some of the best

 

[jbhummer2]

These are great!

 

[bigg cheese]

Watch out! All those wires can hurt. Good choice as I have installed many in the last 15 years these are some of the best

I only touched it with the back of my pinky reaching for something else. Thankfully, I wasn't touching the breaker box at the same time. I'd not be typing this if I had . Some chest pain today, but nothing serious -- the wife made me go to the doctor to be sure . All in all, my first electrical venture and I'm still here.

got it finished today with the receptacle outside. Everything works just fine. I even started my generator for the first time today, and it started on only a single limp-wristed quarter pull. I expect to be toasty warm this winter .

I didn't know until last week that in c-ville city limits you can wire your own house, but you have to hire a licensed electrician. What's the logic in that?

 

[ray d]

Govt.and logic? Never happen.

 

[Icarry2]

What was your source and cost?

Did you document the install?

 

[DougBarnes101]

I was wondering what circuits you chose. I am trying to decide what I would wire in besides the well pump and the baseboard heater and lights in one room.

 

[bigg cheese]

What was your source and cost?

Did you document the install?

Home Depot carries the model I purchased for 298 w/tax, and they provide a DVD (also available on their site as embedded video) with a step by step install by one of their representatives. Everything is extremely straight-forward.

The only thing I'd say that was left out wasn't electrical-related. I was going to use tap-con screws, but the heads kept ripping off while screwing them in, so I went with sleeve anchors -- beefier in terms of strength, but you have to drill a bigger hole if you're mounting to cinder block like I did. (I also had to use some plywood "spacers" since my anchors were so long, and my foundation isn't solid block.)

I was wondering what circuits you chose. I am trying to decide what I would wire in besides the well pump and the baseboard heater and lights in one room.

1. Kitchen fridge -- on dedicated circuit
2. Garage fridge -- on dedicated circuit
3. Daughter's room outlets (but ties in with living room outlets)
4. Kitchen/living room lights
5. Basement freezer
6. Gas furnace

The only thing to remember is that there are two types of devices to protect -- electronics and CFL's.

Electronics can technically work, but can also be technically damaged through a surge protector by undervoltage. Number 4 and 5 share connections with electronic equipment, so unless I purchase a power conditioner, which aren't cheap, given their limited use, they get the surge protectors shut off while the generator runs.

CFL's will also technically work, but I have read that they are more sensitive to variations in electricity. For the duration I tested last night, I didn't have any problems, but if I do, I'll be replacing the lights that connect to the switch with incandescent (guess I'd better stock up, thanks to the .gov).

As many of you know, you don't want to utilize your generator past 50% capacity, and this generator's twist-lock outlet only delivers 20 amps, so I will only run two big appliances at a time. If by some freak of nature, I need more, I will run the 10-gauge extension cord I have for it as well, but 20 amps is enough to keep me warm and my food cold .

As for the well pump, it was suggested to me that if I had one, I would tie the two center 20 amp circuits together (they have a screw-on connector to make them switch as one) using different instructions in the manual.

 

[inxs]

It's a good idea to have something; plywood, strut or other to keep the box off of the concrete. Condensation is not friendly to electrics..

If the generator is properly sized there isn't any problem with loads that are resistive. Motor loads and fluorescents can have starting currents that are the cause of the problem.

 

[tooleman]

my setup is a little less than high tech. My genny is in my garage by the 200amp panel which feeds the 100amp panel on the house. So I have a diedacated outlet for the genny to so that once I start it I can plug it into said outlet and have power to my entire house. Now for the what must be done first. Once the power is out I have to get into the detached garage and turn off all the breakers in the 200 amp panel except the one to the genny. Then power up the genny and plug it in and poof the house has power. To help the genny out we only us diedacated breakers mainly heat, frig/freezer and lights. We try to practice our "survival" skills when there is a power outage. Works well go us best part of this set up I only have like 150 in everything. Pick the genny up at a yard sell. They said it didnt work but I noticed that someone put the governor on backwards. Fix that and she works just fine.

One thing that I suggest everyone who owns a genny do is a monthly test with a drill, fan, or something with a high startup rate. This will keep your problems down and what problems you do have can be fixed before you need the genny.

 

[Ineverfollow]

Mine is a beast and should have a starter on it. My wife called me at work over the summer and I had to come home and start it. She did have it all hooked up right though for that I was proud of her. I think I will go fire mine up right now.

 

[pinshooter45]

my setup is a little less than high tech. My genny is in my garage by the 200amp panel which feeds the 100amp panel on the house. So I have a diedacated outlet for the genny to so that once I start it I can plug it into said outlet and have power to my entire house. Now for the what must be done first. Once the power is out I have to get into the detached garage and turn off all the breakers in the 200 amp panel except the one to the genny. Then power up the genny and plug it in and poof the house has power. To help the genny out we only us diedacated breakers mainly heat, frig/freezer and lights. We try to practice our "survival" skills when there is a power outage. Works well go us best part of this set up I only have like 150 in everything. Pick the genny up at a yard sell. They said it didnt work but I noticed that someone put the governor on backwards. Fix that and she works just fine.

One thing that I suggest everyone who owns a genny do is a monthly test with a drill, fan, or something with a high startup rate. This will keep your problems down and what problems you do have can be fixed before you need the genny.

My set up is simalar to yours, just got a plug in the detached garage, I flip the mains plug in the Genny and a way we go! Gonna get a bigger one than the 5K one I have now, Seen some 7.5K and larger that have a 30 amp plug. If I ever move out into the country I'll have one of those big whole house beasts!

 

[Icarry2]

Just a suggestion. To protect your electronics wire in a filter.

We use these at work on a lot of critical equipment and as with anything with a date code they only have a 10 year warranty thus we swap them out about every 8 years. Old ones get sold cheap..


Islatrol IC+ Series


ISLATROL PLUS ACTIVE TRACKING FILTER IC+115 120VAC. 50/60Hz 15A | eBay

 

[tooleman]

Just a suggestion. To protect your electronics wire in a filter.

We use these at work on a lot of critical equipment and as with anything with a date code they only have a 10 year warranty thus we swap them out about every 8 years. Old ones get sold cheap..


Islatrol IC+ Series


ISLATROL PLUS ACTIVE TRACKING FILTER IC+115 120VAC. 50/60Hz 15A | eBay

This really sounds like a good idea...... But wouldnt a surge protecter do the same thing?????

 

[Icarry2]

This really sounds like a good idea...... But wouldnt a surge protecter do the same thing?????

In my opinion, surge portectors, IE Power Strips, can only take small hits and do not put spikes to ground, they turn them into heat or burn out from what I know.

I have serviced equi[ment where these Islatrol units have taken hits from lightning and have saved millions in replacement equipment costs just from the group I work with. All of our sensative equipment, control computers, PLC's, Analyzers, transmitter power supplies, telemetry units, etc all have been saved by these units.

They aren't cheap to buy new but used they still work, I have had them take a hit and stop working, we box them up, send them back, install spares, and put the replacements back in inventory.

OH, and from my expereince, the best way to protect your electronics while running on a generator is to be sure that your generator's ground lug is in deed grounded to an earth ground. Just a wire from the lug on the generator to your ground rod will do.

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

Good stuff. Thanks for getting me to think about it again.

 

[pinshooter45]

In my opinion, surge portectors, IE Power Strips, can only take small hits and do not put spikes to ground

You are correct those in the power strips are worthless. You can find much better ones than that. There are some decent ones that are a box the will plug into the wall and cover the whole outlet. I used to use that type to protect copiers, I have my computer plugged in to an ESP surge protector, it's about the size of a hard cover book.

 

[Icarry2]

We do use some Tripp Lite Isobar surger suppressors which are pricey and also garanteed.. Don't get me wrong we still have crap get blown up from lighting or spikes that result from large potential jumps, but for the most part we save tons of equipment with protection equipment.

I have one unit that protects a 480 Volt 3 Phase 600 Amp system that has smoked three times from lightning due to a crappy power supply system of our customer. It costs about $5k but it's cheaper then the $250k worth of equipment tied to the crappy grid..

 

[Kimber]

Here is something everyone has overlooked (I think) where ever your electrical panel is located and your generator is located you should hardwire an emergancy lite, like you see in any public office. when the power goes out these lites will come on automaticly. they vary in price and like everything else you get what you pay for. No more fumbling around in the dark.

 

[bigg cheese]

It's a thought, and a good idea, but unless I'm going to be wiring that panel (which is already done), a flashlight will suffice to flip six switches to the generator position .

Do you have one installed, and if so which one did you select?