Engine assembly lube for gun lube?

[jblomenberg16]

So I've been reading and seeing that some folks recommend using more of a grease to lubricate pistol slides, AR Bolts, etc. It makes sense, since the M1 Garand (and other rifles of the time) were lubricated with "Lubriplate."

Now there are different kinds of Lubriplate, and we use a few formulations when we build diesel engines at our factory. I've used some CRC "Engine Assembly Lube with Graphite" on my project car build.

It got me thinking....maybe that would make a good gun lube. What say you INGO? The added benefit is this stuff is dark grey in color (likely from the graphite) instead of the milky white like standard lubriplate. It wouldn't be quite as noticieable against a nice park job, and EBR, or a Glock, etc.


I'm thinking about trying a little on my M1 Garand to see how it performs.

 

[Hiram2005]

If it's the same as regular Lubriplate, just with graphite. I see nothing wrong with using it on guns.

 

[bw210]

I use full synthetic Mobil1 or Valvoline oil. The difference is noticeable and after assembly and a quick wipe down, you see no color difference or weep. Motor oil is also meant for much more friction and heat, so I feel almost overprotected when using.

 

[x10]

Also check out the Lucas Oil Gun lube, it's similar to the assembly oil I've used before, I've really liked the results on my auto pistols of the Lucas product

 

[U.S. Patriot]

I think it would be a bit thick, and everything is going to want to stick to it. I have used Rem-oil for years. It provides more then adequate lubrication, and it's a dry lube. So you do not have to worry about something being left behind for everything to stick too. My

 

[wetidlerjr]

So-called gun lubes are felony theft...

I, long ago, quit buying the rip-off specialty gun oils. I use synthetic motor oil and differential grease as well as auto transmission fluid. A lifetime supply for most people is only around $50.

 

[jedi]

Royal Purple (http://www.royalpurple.com/) for my babies and I have had no issues and it helps with the cleaning. Bought a big bottle and you only little a little bit for each use. I figure this bottle is going to last me years to come.

Here is a review of the stuff that I wrote a while back.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...91-royal_purple_synthetic_oil_and_ar-7_a.html

 

[sporter]

I think it would be a bit thick, and everything is going to want to stick to it. I have used Rem-oil for years. It provides more then adequate lubrication, and it's a dry lube. So you do not have to worry about something being left behind for everything to stick too. My

Rem-oil is a great product which I use regularly but it is subject to burn off and does not have the viscosity required for rifles with metal to metal and cammed surfaces such as the M1 garand/M14 platform.

If you have a problem with grease being to dry or sticky just wet it up a bit with some Rem-oil and voila you have the desired viscosity lubricant.

JBlom, I would recommend a tube type of grease over a lithium type for most purposes like the M1 Garand or a mix of the two.

**graphite has been shown to be corrosive to aluminum with moisture being present.
I am not a fan of graphite for metal to metal purposes.

I use a combination of grease lubricant and oils on every firearm I own. You just have to know where to use each (or a combination there of).
Sig Sauer recommends using a grease based lubricant on their firearms as well as a lithium base inside their actions. Glock sends their pistols from the factory with grease on the frame rails.

**Not using grease on your M1 will increase wear on the certain surfaces that require it. Oil is not sufficient. (I know the video below is for an M14 however it's almost the same rifle for all intensive purposes)
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m4GQSH-5Ek[/ame]

 

[nova512]

2 words (slick 50 ) lmao

 

[jblomenberg16]

Rem-oil is a great product which I use regularly but it is subject to burn off and does not have the viscosity required for rifles with metal to metal and cammed surfaces such as the M1 garand/M14 platform.

If you have a problem with grease being to dry or sticky just wet it up a bit with some Rem-oil and voila you have the desired viscosity lubricant.

JBlom, I would recommend a tube type of grease over a lithium type for most purposes like the M1 Garand or a mix of the two.

**graphite has been shown to be corrosive to aluminum with moisture being present.
I am not a fan of graphite for metal to metal purposes.

I use a combination of grease lubricant and oils on every firearm I own. You just have to know where to use each (or a combination there of).
Sig Sauer recommends using a grease based lubricant on their firearms as well as a lithium base inside their actions. Glock sends their pistols from the factory with grease on the frame rails.

**Not using grease on your M1 will increase wear on the certain surfaces that require it. Oil is not sufficient. (I know the video below is for an M14 however it's almost the same rifle for all intensive purposes)
YouTube - M1A cleaning and lubrication

Yeah, I greased the M1 where the CMP manual says grease, and oiled the rest. Might end up re-cleaning the AR-15 if the graphite doesn't like the aluminum.

I've run it with regular Hoppes oil with no trouble, but after 1k rounds in both of them, there is some good polishing of the carrier. I think the oil will also trap some grit and help make a polishing paste as well.

I will probably go ahead and get some regular old lubripate (pretty much oil Based IIRC) and use that, and maybe some of that recommended stuff for my Glock. When in doubt, trust the manufacturer, right?