Changing barrels on a Savage model 10

[mudwater]

I have a Savage 10FP in 308. Over the years I have toyed with the idea of changing the barrel myself with the "kits" I have seen. It comes with the barrel, jam nut wrench and a head space gauge. This is possible because on the way Savage assembles the barrel to the receiver. For my 308 the options are 7mm-08, 243 and 22-250. I would want to be able to go back to 308 at times.
Anyone have any experience with doing this? I know one comment would be to just buy a new rifle but I am just asking for peoples experience with this.
Thanks

 

[Slab]

if you decide you just want it done instead of doing it yourself, this guy is known over the entire world for his savage work. Even better, he only is about 20 min past van wert, ohio.

Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists

 

[Britton]

I was "told" that it is a fairly easy project, but I have no personal experience with it. Not much help, but all I know from a seasoned shooter friend that loves his Savage.

 

[hotfarmboy1]

I've read an article where a guy built a savage from the ground up, not a gunsmith, in 223 and turned out 1/2" groups at 100 yards without a prob his first time out with it with production ammo. I think you do have other options too. I've been wanting to build a 260 rem on a savage action. It uses the 308 cases just necked down, higher BC for long range shooting, and less recoil than the 308. I'd try to find a barrel in that caliber if I were you. I look to do this someday when I get a savage myself.

 

[singlestacksig]

swapping the barrel is simple.. I have a 10FP n 308 and a 260 rem bbl made from shaw.
all you need is vice , wrench , and go guage..
put new barrel on but not al the way..
close bolt on go guage, then tighten down brrel on go guage...

lock with nut..
check wth no go...

308 / 260 is great cause you only need one go/no go set..

 

[mudwater]

swapping the barrel is simple.. I have a 10FP n 308 and a 260 rem bbl made from shaw.
all you need is vice , wrench , and go guage..
put new barrel on but not al the way..
close bolt on go guage, then tighten down brrel on go guage...

lock with nut..
check wth no go...

308 / 260 is great cause you only need one go/no go set..

Very nice. Thanks. How much scope adjusting do you have to do then changing? Another reason I was thinking of this is because I have rather expensive rings and scope set-up on the receiver. Any problems there?

 

[hotfarmboy1]

Of course you'd have to rezero it. The 260 rem is flatter shooting than the 308. Do you handload? That's the best way to get the accuracy you want out of the 260, there isn't much in the way of production loads out for them, mostly just hunting ammo from what I've seen. What are you wanting to do with it? Hunt? long range shooting?

 

[singlestacksig]

my scope was close side to side, and about 3 inches high @ 100 yrds.

a good scope should have enough adjustment if properly mounted..

 

[mudwater]

Of course you'd have to rezero it. The 260 rem is flatter shooting than the 308. Do you handload? That's the best way to get the accuracy you want out of the 260, there isn't much in the way of production loads out for them, mostly just hunting ammo from what I've seen. What are you wanting to do with it? Hunt? long range shooting?

Yes I do hand load my 308 now. Rezeroing is not a problem and I know there is plenty of travel on my scope. Just courious about if is usually a big adjustment or just a change for the flatter trajectory. I target shoot now but I would look to the smaller caliber for preditors and varmints. I will have to read up some on the 260. Sounds like a good option.

 

[hotfarmboy1]

Check online and see if you can find the archives for the Shotgun News paper/magazine. I had one last year that did a big article on it. Gave load info, ballistics, and all. Its what really turned me on to that caliber.

 

[fireball168]

Anyone have any experience with doing this?

Do it all the time, I've more barrels that I have receivers - they make a pretty inexpensive switch barrel rig for cartridge testing.

The absolute best barrel wrench I've found on the market is made by Mcree Precision, it is also among the cheapest at $25+ shipping.

MCREESPRECISION Buy Direct

I find it is easiest to have the action held in an action wrench when removing the barrel, at times they can be a bit ornery. If you've committed yourself to possibly marring the barrel nut - the combination of the action wrench and barrel nut wrench will get the job done. If you REALLY want to preserve the finish - buy two barrel wrenches to spread the load.

Any action wrench suitable for the Remington 700 will work for the Savage - either external or internal, although externals work quicker when checking headspace frequently during the tightening process.

MidwayUSA - Wheeler Engineering Action Wrench #2 Remington 700, Savage 110

When assembling - remove the ejector. It only takes a moment to knock the pin out and remove the ejector and spring. That will eliminate the feeling of the spring acting on the headspace gauge while reassembling - especially until you develop a feel for it.

I place the barrel in a barrel vise, which really isn't needed, but that's the way I do it.

BROWNELLS : FARRELL INDUSTRIES, INC. : BARREL VISE - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Spin on the barrel nut as far as it will go, place the wrench on the nut(so you're not dragging it over the entire length of the barrel more than once), screw the receiver on while aligning the recoil lug with the slot in the receiver. I screw on the receiver until it bottoms the barrel on the bolt head, which is about .005-.015" depending on the barrel, from where you will end up with the headspace gauge.

The receiver is threaded 20 TPI, each thread will move your headspace .050". Back off the action wrench about 2 clock positions, and insert your GO gauge. Gently and slowly turn the action wrench while opening and closing the bolt, when you feel the slightest bit of a drag you're already tighter than the GO - back off the wrench every so slightly then tighten ever so gently to develop your feel of where zero clearance is (provided you want your headspace that tight - if not do as you wish).

Once you are where you want it - the barrel is being held by the vice, you've got the action wrench in one hand, and the barrel nut wrench in the other - tighten the barrel nut while holding the action wrench steady. One good open palm smack on the Mcree wrench will get you 20 ft. lbs typically, although it is machined for a 1/2 drive if you'd like to check it.

Check headspace again after tightening to ensure nothing moved on you (if does happen).


If you've got the capability, making a facing cut on the front receiver ring certainly won't hurt anything - they are typically off .002-.005". The bolt faces are typically slightly concaved around the firing pin hole .001 - .002". Both can be touched up in less than 10 minutes by a relatively experienced lathe operator.

I can take some pictures of the process over the weekend if there is interest.

 

[keyser]

It is a piece of cake. I had never done one before and on my brothers advice built a heavy barrel .22-250 off of a 110 action. The options are limitless. A friend of mine had a good idea and bought one of the benchtop pipe clamps at Harbor Freight and it works great for an action vise. All you need is the wrench and some go/no go gauges and you are set. You may have to modify/change the bolt head depending on the cartridge you are switching to. If you are going to purchase a gun for the build the Stevens 200's are the same thing, and if you are going to drop in an aftermarket trigger you don't need the accutrigger anyway.

 

[red_zr24x4]

go to savageshooters.com everything you need to know about savage rifles. Sharp shooter supply mentioned on the first page here is a regular poster over there. plus there are vendors over there that have everything you need.
kenny

 

[andyrping]

I have a Savage 10FP in 308. Over the years I have toyed with the idea of changing the barrel myself with the "kits" I have seen. It comes with the barrel, jam nut wrench and a head space gauge. This is possible because on the way Savage assembles the barrel to the receiver. For my 308 the options are 7mm-08, 243 and 22-250. I would want to be able to go back to 308 at times.
Anyone have any experience with doing this? I know one comment would be to just buy a new rifle but I am just asking for peoples experience with this.
Thanks

Once you have the nut wrench, an action wrench and headspace gauges, it takes about 5 minutes to do. Don't know if it was mentioned or not, but I like to take out the extractor (watch the ball bearing and spring don't go across the room) to make sure I get the best feel with the gauges.

Before you know it, you will be broke from buying different barrels, bolt heads, magazines and what not.

Also watch if your switching mags, I believe the newer center feed mags require a different hole spacing.

About two years ago the Dick's Sporting Goods by me had a bunch of Stevens 200's on clearance for $180. I'm kicking myself for only getting one.