Break Free CLP noobie questions

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  • zippy23

    Master
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    27   0   0
    May 20, 2012
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    Noblesville
    Ok, so i got a can of break free CLP from a buddy a while back. i've been checking youtube videos on cleaning AR15's, they use cleaners and lubricants. Is BF CLP all i really need? Just spray it on the parts, wait a while, whipe it off and then sray a little bit on certain parts that need lube? Thanks
     

    Fordtough25

    Grandmaster
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    111   1   0
    Apr 14, 2010
    6,921
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    Jefferson County
    Ok, so i got a can of break free CLP from a buddy a while back. i've been checking youtube videos on cleaning AR15's, they use cleaners and lubricants. Is BF CLP all i really need? Just spray it on the parts, wait a while, whipe it off and then sray a little bit on certain parts that need lube? Thanks


    Yup that pretty much covers it. I use an old toothbrush on the chamber and bolt but CLP is good stuff!
     

    zippy23

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    27   0   0
    May 20, 2012
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    Noblesville
    My manual talks about cleaning with CLP but does not talk about places to oil or lube the gun, it just says dont "oil the chamber" but do clean it with CLP. are there certain places that need a drop of oil? i've seen youtube videos but some seem different than others. What are the places that need a drop of lube?
     

    rhino

    Grandmaster
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    24   0   0
    Mar 18, 2008
    30,906
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    Indiana
    My manual talks about cleaning with CLP but does not talk about places to oil or lube the gun, it just says dont "oil the chamber" but do clean it with CLP. are there certain places that need a drop of oil? i've seen youtube videos but some seem different than others. What are the places that need a drop of lube?

    The bolt and the outside of the bolt carrier should be visibly "wet" with lubricant after you reassemble. ARs run better when "wet," whether they are clean or dirty. In fact, a dirty but well-lubricated AR will usually run better than a clean AR that is lubricated sparingly.

    You can't "overlube," either. If in doubt, use more.

    A small bottle of lube (your CLP is fine) should be part of your kit that you carry with the rifle as well, not just something to keep at home for cleaning. If you fire more than a few rounds, especially rapidly, the heat and dry your bolt and carrier significantly and you'll want to add more lube.
     

    indykid

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    4   0   0
    Jan 27, 2008
    11,930
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    Westfield
    I have the same question, what about eliminating the lead deposits and powder? Don't you need something like Hoppes #9?

    My preferred way to clean my firearms after a range visit combines both Hoppes 9 and CLP. I run several wet patches of Hoppes through the bore until clean, follow with one dry patch, then soak a patch in CLP and run it down the bore. It never ceases to amaze me that the CLP soaked patch pulls out more crud. I follow with a dry patch and am finished with the bore.

    I also use the CLP as others have said, basic cleaning, lubing and protection.
     

    HavokCycle

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    2   0   0
    Nov 10, 2012
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    Zionsville
    The bolt and the outside of the bolt carrier should be visibly "wet" with lubricant after you reassemble. ARs run better when "wet," whether they are clean or dirty. In fact, a dirty but well-lubricated AR will usually run better than a clean AR that is lubricated sparingly.

    You can't "overlube," either. If in doubt, use more.

    i know guys that run axle grease on their ARs with ZERO problems.
     

    Cerberus

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    2   0   0
    Sep 27, 2011
    2,359
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    Floyd County
    If you get leading in your AR, you are using the wrong type of bullet. Copper fouling yes, leading no. CLP will easily do all the cleaning you need to do on any AR. I only use Hoppe's very rarely, and then only in non-chromed bores.

    If you have stuborn carbon build up on any part of your AR, soak it in CLP over night and the crud will melt away. Leave some soaking in you bore and you will get more fouling out.
     

    HavokCycle

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    2   0   0
    Nov 10, 2012
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    Zionsville
    back on topic, I use a CLP frequently. frog lube to be specific. every time i get a new gun i coat every surface in it, inside and out, and shove it in the oven at like 175-200 degrees

    my theory is it makes the metal expand a bit and allows the protectant to absorb better.

    just me .02
     

    45acp223

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 3, 2013
    102
    16
    SE IN.
    For chrome barrels I only use CLP for cleaning and lubing. I sometimes soak with Hoppes on a steel barrel to help remove major copper fouling, but typically CLP is all I use for all of my firearms. Great stuff!
     

    nipprdog

    Grandmaster
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    36   0   0
    Jan 11, 2009
    6,383
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    Tippecanoe county
    A small bottle of lube (your CLP is fine) should be part of your kit that you carry with the rifle as well, not just something to keep at home for cleaning. If you fire more than a few rounds, especially rapidly, the heat and dry your bolt and carrier significantly and you'll want to add more lube.

    You take a wet BCG to range, fire some rounds, and feel that you need to add more oil to the BCG?
     

    Hookeye

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    4   0   0
    Dec 19, 2011
    15,253
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    armpit of the midwest
    FWIW I ran a little red Shooter's Choice grease on my bolt in a couple of spots and the dreaded Remoil on all else.
    I'm nobody, but ran a couple hundred through mine on a 100 degree day and it ran fine.
    In fact all 3 ran fine, for the few years I owned each.
    My shotguns, and other rifles, even my Colt handguns, get Remoil.
    No problems.

    I'll pass on axle grease or CLP. I hate the latter's slimy feel and also don't like the smell.

    :)
     

    rhino

    Grandmaster
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    24   0   0
    Mar 18, 2008
    30,906
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    Indiana
    You take a wet BCG to range, fire some rounds, and feel that you need to add more oil to the BCG?

    Yes. If it it isn't visibly wet, it's going to get more lube.

    If can't speak for anyone else, but if I fire a several hundred rounds in the morning of the class, the bolt carrier can be dry by lunch time. If it's not visibly wet, it's going to get more lube.

    This might not be an issue for people who never fire more than a few rounds at a time. When I said "more than a few" I was probably too vague. I should have said "however many you fire for the bolt carrier to no longer be visibly wet." Time frame is also going be a factor. If you fire a lot of rounds in a short period of time, the works inside the gun will be hotter and the lube will evaporate more quickly.

    I've been in more than one class where ARs were choking and failing to cycle properly and the instructor would look at bolt carriers at a break. Any of them that looked dry got a squirt of whatever lube he had in his hand.
     

    SubUrbanCamo317

    Sharpshooter
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    18   0   0
    Dec 6, 2012
    586
    18
    South Side Indy
    FWIW I ran a little red Shooter's Choice grease on my bolt in a couple of spots and the dreaded Remoil on all else.
    I'm nobody, but ran a couple hundred through mine on a 100 degree day and it ran fine.
    In fact all 3 ran fine, for the few years I owned each.
    My shotguns, and other rifles, even my Colt handguns, get Remoil.
    No problems.

    I'll pass on axle grease or CLP. I hate the latter's slimy feel and also don't like the smell.

    :)


    Whats wrong with Remoil?
     
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