Best way to strip wood stocks?

[joshuamckee]

What is the best way to strip a wood stock?I thought i would get everyone's opinion.

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

Well, first you pour yourself a screwdriver, and a glass of stripper for the stock... then turn the lights down... put on some romantic music... A fire might be nice, but don't get too close to it with the stripper OR the screwdriver....

 

[Andre46996]

I find lots of singles work best...

 

[smokingman]

How bad is the current stock? Are we talking a few scuffs or a mosin dug up after 40 years of being run over by Elgas tractor?
If it has no major gouges or scratches start with a stripper and use fine sand paper.Re-stain and 3-6 coats of lacquer(very thin coats...i use high quality brushes others prefer spray).
If it is beat all to hell....you need to put in a little more work
Start with a shaping plane(this one works well http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00937745000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=View+All) to get all your deep gouges and scratches out.This will leave you with a rough stock,but "clean".Then start sanding with some medium.Then sand some more.Then fine sand paper.When you are 100% done sanding...sand for another 30 min to an hour.Sanding is critical if you want a decent looking stock.Stain...dry... stain ....3-6 coats of lacquer. I have refinished a few Mosin stocks.The last one I did took around 8 hours of actual work.Hope that helps.


*note when you finish a mosin the metal butt plate will be to large.You can "fix it" with a Dremel. Mark it while it is on the rifle take it off and grind it down.You could use a bench grinder but you will probably take to much off.

 

[fyrefyter101]

Use an iron and a damp rag to pull the dents, sand with 100 grit sandpaper to 400 grit and see what you end up with, then if your happy with the quality of the wood and the surface smoothness (take your time) then coat it with 6 to 8 coats of poly varnish. between each coat use 000 steelwool then top coat it with another layer. Let it dry for a few days and then go over it with 0000 steel wool(not too much pressure on it) then use a good quality car wax, several coats, then wipe it off and buff with it with a nice soft cloth. It worked for me on a 1969 10/22 stock and it turned out as nice as an original stock would have been (maybe even better). I hope that this helps you on your project.

 

[Chance]

On older stocks with varnish..

If it is an older stock with a varnish type finish (like my Mosin) you can use a rage soaked with acetone to remove the finish. Keep the rag wet with the acetone and you can wipe the finish off. Nice thing is this doesn't raise the grain. I did this, a light sanding with some extra fine sanpaper, walnut stain and the Tru-oil finish and it turned out great.

 

[Naptown]

go find yourself a nice stripper.

 

[jsn_mooney]

Citristrip from Wally-World. I brush it on pretty thick, give it 15 min to an hour depending how thick and grimy the finish is, then take it to the kitchen sink and wash it off with hot water and a green scotch-brite pad. Towel off the remaining water and it will be dry before you know it. If it's real greasy it might take another time or two. Otherwise,I usually hit it with some 220 grit and its ready for stain or, tung oil.
I know you'd think water on a bare stock would a bad idea, but I've probably done 40 stocks this way, it's the best I've found- it doesn't stink everything up, or eat flesh. I've even had exellent results with 870 Express and 700 stocks with the Remington Factory epoxy finish.

 

[mrmarky]

here's a tip that worked for me, if it's an old mip-surp stock that has a lot of black staining from years of cosmoline, oil and who knows what, soak the stock in your parts washer solution for a couple er 3 days it pulls out the crud and did'nt hurt the wood. then careful sanding after letting it dry out for a few days.

 

[Clay]

Citristrip FTW! awesome stuff!

 

[Cat-Herder]

it doesn't stink everything up, or eat flesh

zombie strippers?

 

[CountryBoy19]

need to put in a little more work
Start with a shaping plane(this one works well http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00937745000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=View+All) to get all your deep gouges and scratches out.

That is not the way to "start to get all the deep gouges out"
See below
If they're still present after doing the below actions, then you can use a shaping plane, but IMHO that is a last resort step.

Use an iron and a damp rag to pull the dents, sand with 100 grit sandpaper to 400 grit and see what you end up with, then if your happy with the quality of the wood and the surface smoothness

IMHO That's the only way to properly remove dents and dings. Don't just start removing wood. You "steam" the dents out first, then all it should take is a little bit of sandpaper to completely remove them, and prep the wood for new finish.

I have no experience on what stripper to use, but I plan to strip a couple G-kit stocks sometime and re-stain them "red".

But I need to build them up first. I all the parts I need to do it, just have to find the time and tools.

 

[sloughfoot]

All you guys with the stripper jokes were pretty funny.

For a grungy old military stock, I use Easy-Off oven cleaner, steel wool, and hot water. It seems to do a good job of drawing out the oil out of the stock. Be sure to use rubber gloves too and do it outside.

 

[sptland]

If you have any checkering on the stock - my buddy uses a brass bristled brush to get down in and clean out those areas. Seems to work great and doesn't harm the wood.