.45 reloading problems

[hps]

Having a problem w/ reloading 45, about 4 outta 10 are not staying seated like they should. I think its my brass that we talked about in a previous thread,,"I think I ruined my brass" anyway 4 outta 10 are doing the same thing (seating further with a little more finger pressure). I'm gonna buy some brass (new)and try my luck. It's SUPER frustrating. another question can i reuse bullets that have a crimp line on the bullet?

 

[Cam]

Yeah you can reuse those bullets. I'll ask the same question I did in the last thread. Have you put a taper crimp on those cases?

 

[x10]

I don't think we can help you with the Lee equipment you have,

Can you get some brass to someone with another reloader and let them try it

no matter what a Taper crimp will hold that, don't get those lee factory crimp dies they cause as much trouble as they help

 

[hps]

Oh don't even think about tellin me i need NEW equipment!! I've just about had enuff of this reloading crap i can stand. ITS SUPER FRUSTRATING!!! and what the heck is a taper crimp? the funny thing is i made prolly 100rds last week that were perfect,didn't even need the "Factory crimp die" Then i get some more of the SAME bullets and i'm having this problem. are 45 rds this darn finicky? has anybody had trouble w/rem. brass?

 

[Joe Williams]

I don't think we can help you with the Lee equipment you have,

Can you get some brass to someone with another reloader and let them try it

no matter what a Taper crimp will hold that, don't get those lee factory crimp dies they cause as much trouble as they help

How so? I've been using them for quite some time. Never any trouble, and the chrono says I'm getting better consistency in my velocities.

 

[Joe Williams]

Oh don't even think about tellin me i need NEW equipment!! I've just about had enuff of this reloading crap i can stand. ITS SUPER FRUSTRATING!!! and what the heck is a taper crimp? the funny thing is i made prolly 100rds last week that were perfect,didn't even need the "Factory crimp die" Then i get some more of the SAME bullets and i'm having this problem. are 45 rds this darn finicky? has anybody had trouble w/rem. brass?

You don't need new equipment. Lee works fine.

I've not been as impressed with the quality of Remington components or ammo as I used to be. I'll buy the brass if I really need some, but I'd rather buy some boxes of WWB and use that brass after shooting it.

 

[hps]

I'm not having problems w/ WWB brass just the Remmy's

 

[slow1911s]

What is the case mouth diameter with the bullet seated? It should be the bullet diameter (.451" for jacketed, .452" for lead), plus the thickness of the case x2. You should be reading somewhere around .475" +/- .002", I think.

Remember, you need only to bell the mouth enough to seat the bullet without shaving off lead or jacket. Then crimp just enough to remove the bell.

 

[skyalkov@mac.com]

I would guess you just need to lower the crimping die a little bitter, and narrow up the mouth of the casing. A taper crimp is basically just a squeeze on the case mouth on to the bullet.

Have you measured the case mouth once you insert a bullet?

What is the measurement you are getting? I think I crimp my .45 rounds to .471 inches at the case mouth. Standard should measure in at .473 inches at the case mouth. With a crimp to .471 my reloads headspace fine in my 1911.

 

[Joe Williams]

I'm not having problems w/ WWB brass just the Remmy's

What I meant to say is I find the brass from even those cheapo WWBs better than the Rem brass. Sorry, didn't make myself clear.

The factory taper crimp die does just that, applies a taper crimp to the brass instead of a roll crimp. A roll crimp is good for revolvers, but a semi-auto headspaces on the rim of the case. If you try to apply a firm roll crimp, like you get with the seating die, the round can't headspace properly. The taper crimp die applies the proper type of crimp, and it's supposedly impossible to over crimp. It also resizes the entire round again to factory specs which, theoritically at least, improves reliability. It may, or may not, help with your problem, but it's still a worthwhile purchase and the extra step doesn't take that long.

You wouldn't happen to be anywhere near Crawfordsville, would you?

 

[hps]

so ur sayin after the bullet is seated and crimped it should measure .475 +/- .002?
Why is it everything i'm reading says that 45 only need to use the seating die as that and also the crimp. Says i don't need to use the factory crimp die that came with the 4 die set.

 

[Joe Williams]

so ur sayin after the bullet is seated and crimped it should measure .475 +/- .002?
Why is it everything i'm reading says that 45 only need to use the seating die as that and also the crimp. Says i don't need to use the factory crimp die that came with the 4 die set.

You don't have to, but I think I get better results with it.

You set the seating die so it doesn't apply any crimp at all, then use the taper crimp die. It's worth trying out to see if it helps.

 

[skyalkov@mac.com]

so ur sayin after the bullet is seated and crimped it should measure .475 +/- .002?
Why is it everything i'm reading says that 45 only need to use the seating die as that and also the crimp. Says i don't need to use the factory crimp die that came with the 4 die set.

Use it, and your problem should be taken care of.

Do you have a micrometer or calipers to measure overall length and other dimensions with? If not, go buy one, and check the dimensions that are given in the reloading guides with what you load.

 

[hps]

What I meant to say is I find the brass from even those cheapo WWBs better than the Rem brass. Sorry, didn't make myself clear.

The factory taper crimp die does just that, applies a taper crimp to the brass instead of a roll crimp. A roll crimp is good for revolvers, but a semi-auto headspaces on the rim of the case. If you try to apply a firm roll crimp, like you get with the seating die, the round can't headspace properly. The taper crimp die applies the proper type of crimp, and it's supposedly impossible to over crimp. It also resizes the entire round again to factory specs which, theoritically at least, improves reliability. It may, or may not, help with your problem, but it's still a worthwhile purchase and the extra step doesn't take that long.

You wouldn't happen to be anywhere near Crawfordsville, would you?

Westside INDY
I've tried to use the factory crimp die that came with my 4 piece carbide set, the rds that have been OK I don't feel the slightest bit of resistence when pressing thru the Factory crimp die. the rds that are not ok there is resistence when feed thru the factory crimp die.

 

[Joe Williams]

Westside INDY
I've tried to use the factory crimp die that came with my 4 piece carbide set, the rds that have been OK I don't feel the slightest bit of resistence when pressing thru the Factory crimp die. the rds that are not ok there is resistence when feed thru the factory crimp die.

Interesting.

For the next few weeks, I've got an abundance of spare time. If you want to pack up some components and your dies and bring 'em over, I'd be glad to run through the process and see what's happening. Fresh eyes can sometimes make a difference.

If we duplicate the issue and can't figure out why, we can try my dies. If the problem doesn't happen with mine, you know you need to make use of Lee's warranty. If it happens with both dies, we'll do a bit more detective work.

 

[hps]

This may sound like a stupid question BUUUUTTTT...... The deprimer/expander die does that need to be adjusted by me? could that be making to large of a "flare" or expanding the cases to large.

 

[hps]

Interesting.

For the next few weeks, I've got an abundance of spare time. If you want to pack up some components and your dies and bring 'em over, I'd be glad to run through the process and see what's happening. Fresh eyes can sometimes make a difference.

If we duplicate the issue and can't figure out why, we can try my dies. If the problem doesn't happen with mine, you know you need to make use of Lee's warranty. If it happens with both dies, we'll do a bit more detective work.

If I can't get this figured out rather quickly I'm gonna take you up on this offer.

 

[Joe Williams]

This may sound like a stupid question BUUUUTTTT...... The deprimer/expander die does that need to be adjusted by me? could that be making to large of a "flare" or expanding the cases to large.

Yup.

You want juuuust enough flare to get the bullet started. Back it out until you aren't getting any flare, and ease it in by small increments until you are getting just what you need. Too much can cause problems, it will also works the case mouth unnecessarily and will reduce the number of reloadings you can get from the brass.

 

[Joe Williams]

If I can't get this figured out rather quickly I'm gonna take you up on this offer.

I'm more than willing. I'd enjoy it, and it really doesn't take long to run through 50 or 100 rounds, even on my setup. Being new to reloading, a "mini-class" may save you some heartburn LOL. It's how I learned from a friend many moons ago.

 

[hps]

When the factory crimp die is used, I put a loaded rd in the shell holder w/ adjusting screw out to where i see threads press rd into die then i adjust til i feel the case mouth on the adjusting screw, correct? "I Never feel the case mouth, the adjusting screw will lower all the way til it can't go any further into the die.