44 mag rifle load?

[bassmatt]

Being new to reloading I am wondering. Should a 44mag round be loaded different for a rifle(Ruger m77/44) as a 44mag round being used in a pistol. I am using 2400 in my pistol rounds should I change my recipe for the rifle? If so what can I do different?
THanks,
Matt

 

[parson]

I no longer have a .44 mag handgun, but I load the same for my rifle. usually max loads found in manuals of either 110 or 296. I have also used 2400 with good results, again, with top end loads found in manuals.

 

[hammer24]

My 77/44 likes a max load of H110 under a 240 xtp. May want to stay away from cast in the 1:20 barrel. To answer your basic question...no. You don't do anything different from a pistol or rifle load other than the load itself.

 

[Broom_jm]

I guess it depends if you want plinking loads or full-throttle hunting loads, but you use the same powders regardless of whether or not you're firing them from a rifle or revolver. 2400 is an excellent choice for 44 Magnum in any of the above.

 

[x10]

I've used 24.0 gr H110 with a horandy 240 XTP but I tried some factory 225 Lever evolution ammo and the rifle shot much better so I'm going to try to reproduce the leverevoluton load in the future.

 

[Don]

Why would you not want to take advantage of the slower burning powders in a rifle?

 

[Broom_jm]

Why would you not want to take advantage of the slower burning powders in a rifle?

One of the persistent myths in reloading is that you use "fast" powders for short barrels and "slow" powders for longer barrels. The truth is that the preponderance of internal ballistics transpires within a very short distance of bullet travel, with pressures beginning to decline from their peak in just a few inches. To put it very succinctly: The powder that generates the best velocity from a 6" pistol barrel is the same powder that will generate the best velocity from a 22" rifle barrel. It's just that the rifle-length barrel will create more velocity.

For the 44RM, powders like 2400, H110, and Li'l Gun are optimal. Faster powders will deliver good performance, but not AS much velocity. In a pistol, it's sometimes "better" to have less velocity and recoil. The same can be said for plinking rounds from a carbine or rifle.

 

[x10]

H110 is a pretty slow pistol powder I think theres some load data out there for 4227,

There's not a lot of load data for 44 rifle, that makes any great bounds over pistol data,

I've always found that H110 is a solid performer in Magnum straight-wall pistol cartridge's

 

[Skip]

If you use the slower powders, you can expect quite an advantage when fired in a longer barrel. That being said, the slowest powders will ALWAYS give you better velocity, regardless of barrel length. In shorter barrels, because the powder doesn't burn completely, you also get quite a light show!

I have several 44Mag carbines. An Encore 22", Ruger M77/44 and a couple of Marlin 1894s. The Ruger and T/C get jacketed bullets and the Marlins get lead. All of them are giving right at 1800fps with their selected loads.

The Marlins use AA#9, because it is lead friendly, and a 250gr RNHP or an Elmer Keith SWC. The jacketed loads are full house loads of H110/W296 or, what I have got a bunch of now, WC820 (military surplus that is just a tad slower than H110/W296).

Here is a picture of the results of the latter from the Encore: (100 yards)

Here are the ones for the lead bullets and the Marlin: (100 yards)

If you want something that you can shoot all day long, use Unique and a midrange load of that. It will be extremely accurate in your rifle at close ranges, 50 yards or less.

Hope this helps.

 

[1$Chuck]

One of the persistent myths in reloading is that you use "fast" powders for short barrels and "slow" powders for longer barrels. The truth is that the preponderance of internal ballistics transpires within a very short distance of bullet travel, with pressures beginning to decline from their peak in just a few inches. To put it very succinctly: The powder that generates the best velocity from a 6" pistol barrel is the same powder that will generate the best velocity from a 22" rifle barrel. It's just that the rifle-length barrel will create more velocity.

.

My understanding of this is that what you said above is true for a given charge (i.e, same charge in both the pistol and rifle), But if that charge is the maximum charge for that powder (to obtain the highest velocity in short barreled weapon), that you might be able to select a slower burning powder for the rifle and use more of it to gain even more velocity by utilizing the longer barrel.

 

[Skip]

Chuck!
That new load will still give higher velocity in the shorter barrel.

 

[Broom_jm]

My understanding of this is that what you said above is true for a given charge (i.e, same charge in both the pistol and rifle), But if that charge is the maximum charge for that powder (to obtain the highest velocity in short barreled weapon), that you might be able to select a slower burning powder for the rifle and use more of it to gain even more velocity by utilizing the longer barrel.

That would seem intuitive, wouldn't it?

Thing is, it doesn't work that way. The powder that gives the best "performance", or velocity, in a short barrel, is the same powder that will give the best velocity from a longer barrel. For the sake of argument, let's agree that H110/W296 gives the best velocity under a 240gr XTP bullet, from an 18" carbine barrel. That same powder is going to give the best velocity from a 6" revolver barrel, as well. Other, faster powders may be "better", in that they have less muzzle flash or recoil, but the greatest velocity will be produced by one powder, irrespective of barrel length.

Again, this is because all of the important internal ballistics stuff happens within a very short space in the chamber/barrel...usually the first 2-3", at most. It took me a while to wrap my head around it, but after reading a few articles on the subject, it became more clear. The "best" powder for a given cartridge/bullet combo is the best...no matter what the barrel length is.

 

[Skip]

To clarify: By "best", we are assuming we are looking at velocity only. The older Speer manuals, #8 especially has data for a 2" snub revolver in 38spl and 357Mag. Looking at that data will convince you that the slower powders give the best velocity even in those short barrels. Wisdom though is found in their disclaimer: "Slower powders give the best velocity even in these short barrels but also have a greater muzzle flash and report as well"

Not sure about the claim of things being "over with" in 2-3" though. When I do this comparison from my 5" to my 20" or 22" for that matter, I seem to get lots more velocity from the slower powders. In some instances, 400fps more......

 

[Broom_jm]

With the 44RM, 240 grain bullet, and a stout load of H110, a "slow" powder, the MAP (maximum average pressure) is achieved in the first 1" of travel down the barrel of any firearm. By the time the bullet has traveled 2", pressure has dropped from a peak of ~36,000 to roughly 25,000psi and at 5", it is down to around 10,000psi. So, the real "magic" of internal ballistics happens in a very short time frame, and within a very short amount of barrel travel...no matter how long the barrel is.