.223 RCBS dies

[VERT]

Got the Midway USA flyer I'm the mail ano they have 10% off the RCBS AR series small base dies with taper crimp. I have been considering trying my hand at reloading 223. Any suggestions or thoughts? I would use these in a lee turret press (not the classic cast). Reloading only for an AR-15 for use as range fodder. Looks like these dies and maybe a powder through die is all I will need.

 

[jblomenberg16]

I really like RCBS rifle dies. I'd say you are good to go. A powder through rifle die is a quick and easy way to load on the turret press. I eventually added a factory crimp die, as I was crushing shoulders with the taper crimp in the seating die.

 

[wassup61]

Loading bottlenecks is more than just an investment in does. You will need a method to:

Swage primer pockets (unless you do commercial brass only, but I recommend buying some bulk once fired LC or wcc)
Full length size And case lube
Trim...

Then you can load. Just a thought

 

[Robert Richardson]

I have never seen the need for Small base dies

 

[jgressley2003]

I wonder what the difference is between the small base dies and the AR small base dies? When I was researching dies I read that you needed the small base set if you were going to use them in semi-autos so I bought that set to cover me if I bought an AR. After I purchased that set I read that full length dies are all you need for .223, then all of a sudden this AR series pops up and adds to my confusion.

 

[Robert Richardson]

I wonder what the difference is between the small base dies and the AR small base dies? When I was researching dies I read that you needed the small base set if you were going to use them in semi-autos so I bought that set to cover me if I bought an AR. After I purchased that set I read that full length dies are all you need for .223, then all of a sudden this AR series pops up and adds to my confusion.

Marketing hype.

 

[Leo]

The RCBS "AR" dies actually make the brass marginally undersize. The other feature of that set is a taper crimp rather than a roll crimp in the bullet, which I think is better. I NEVER crimp rifle ammo, semi auto or otherwise. Proper bullet, into proper neck tension in proper brass is plenty enough tension. I also select powder that fills the case all the way to the bullet, even to the point of compressed loading. So in my mind, a mild taper crimp beats a bullet distorting roll crimp.

A person really needs to correctly identify the area of trouble to be able to solve the issue.

I have used several LEE full length sizer dies over the course of many years. It puts the brass back to SAAMI spec just fine. If your dies do not return the brass to spec, you have a die problem. If SAAMI spec sized brass does not run in your rifle, you have a rifle chamber problem. I do not care if you have a Fulton Chamber, a Wylde Chamber, a Compass Lake chamber, a mil spec chamber, etc, SAAMI spec brass will run if the rifle was properly finish reamed.

Most people are not able to determine what is causing the interference in the system, and just start ordering special this and special that to mask the problem without ever solving it. I have known more than one guy who bought small base dies in a panic, that had a head space issues, the brass was not even close to interference at the base. This includes guys that have been successfully reloading for years. One gentleman started having all kinds of trouble and after spending a ton of money, it was found that he just mixed up shellholders and the tolerance between brands made his headspacing just enough out of spec to make his rifle occasionally malfunction, a big problem in a match. If a regular RCBS die will not bring your brass to spec, it is defective, send it back and have them make it right.

The one "upscale" die that I do endorse is the competition bullet seater die from Redding. The bullet is held perfectly centered in a sliding sleeve as it in introduced to the case mouth. If bullet to case concentricity matters to you, this design of seater die DOES make the finished rounds more concentic. This can be checked on precision V blocks with a dial indicator. BTW, Redding is not the only one that have this design available, but they are the ones I buy. I get a kick out of "competition" stuff that is really the same design as the basic product except the put a micrometer looking knob on it instead of a plain knurled adjuster. The "readings" are meaningless as the die is not on precise calibration to a dead travel stop on the ram/shellholder/press assembly.

 

[Mark 1911]

I bought a set of RCBS .223 dies but haven't used them yet. Will be checking back here to see what people have to say about them. My experience with RCBS dies is all good, very consistent results. I expect the same to be true with the .223s.

 

[Sniper 79]

I been using Lee dies for AR food. Never had any problems. Love the factory crimp die.

 

[VERT]

I been using Lee dies for AR food. Never had any problems. Love the factory crimp die.

The factory crimp die has been recommended to me by a friend. I use them for pistol cartridges.

 

[Bigdog357]

I own the RCBS small base die set, actually just loaded a 1000 rds last week on a rock chucker press. The dies work fine, you must use a good lube on the inside neck and outside case or you will stick the case in the die. I tried to use the spray one shot lobe and stuck two cases. I don't have a stuck case remover so I improvised one out of parts on hand, pain in butt. I do crimp the case using a Lee Factory crimp die, I know its an extra step but I use these in My Mini14 and my AR so I like a good crimp. All that being said its probably my least favorite round to reload.

 

[jblomenberg16]

I highly recommend Imperial sizing wax. A little more 'hands on' than some of the spray lubes, but its really hard to stick a case using it, and a little goes a long long way.

 

[Bigdog357]

Yea, I have a pad and some good lube, I just got lazy and tried to use the spray lube. It works on some of my other caliber cases, but its tough with the 223 because of the small case rim. Lesson learned

 

[BGDave]

The RCBS "AR" dies actually make the brass marginally undersize. The other feature of that set is a taper crimp rather than a roll crimp in the bullet, which I think is better. I NEVER crimp rifle ammo, semi auto or otherwise. Proper bullet, into proper neck tension in proper brass is plenty enough tension. I also select powder that fills the case all the way to the bullet, even to the point of compressed loading. So in my mind, a mild taper crimp beats a bullet distorting roll crimp.

A person really needs to correctly identify the area of trouble to be able to solve the issue.

I have used several LEE full length sizer dies over the course of many years. It puts the brass back to SAAMI spec just fine. If your dies do not return the brass to spec, you have a die problem. If SAAMI spec sized brass does not run in your rifle, you have a rifle chamber problem. I do not care if you have a Fulton Chamber, a Wylde Chamber, a Compass Lake chamber, a mil spec chamber, etc, SAAMI spec brass will run if the rifle was properly finish reamed.

Most people are not able to determine what is causing the interference in the system, and just start ordering special this and special that to mask the problem without ever solving it. I have known more than one guy who bought small base dies in a panic, that had a head space issues, the brass was not even close to interference at the base. This includes guys that have been successfully reloading for years. One gentleman started having all kinds of trouble and after spending a ton of money, it was found that he just mixed up shellholders and the tolerance between brands made his headspacing just enough out of spec to make his rifle occasionally malfunction, a big problem in a match. If a regular RCBS die will not bring your brass to spec, it is defective, send it back and have them make it right.

The one "upscale" die that I do endorse is the competition bullet seater die from Redding. The bullet is held perfectly centered in a sliding sleeve as it in introduced to the case mouth. If bullet to case concentricity matters to you, this design of seater die DOES make the finished rounds more concentic. This can be checked on precision V blocks with a dial indicator. BTW, Redding is not the only one that have this design available, but they are the ones I buy. I get a kick out of "competition" stuff that is really the same design as the basic product except the put a micrometer looking knob on it instead of a plain knurled adjuster. The "readings" are meaningless as the die is not on precise calibration to a dead travel stop on the ram/shellholder/press assembly.

I'm in awe. So much good info in one post.

Thank you so much.

PS---- What I wouldn't have given to read this 35 or 40 years ago. The internet has gold in it.

 

[j706]

I been using Lee dies for AR food. Never had any problems. Love the factory crimp die.

Same here.